For those that have built up a car for racing, (ITA spec in this case) what is the next thing to start on now that I pretty much have the car at a point where it's running and streetable? (I got it for 500 bucks and was in a minor wreck which needed body/frame work as well as some stuff like radiator and CV's)

I see this whole horizon of things that need to be done. I'm wondering if there is a "correct" approach or order to go, or if I just start doing things as my budget allows? For example: should I tackle all the go-fast stuff first, like I/H/E/tuning, or should I start with suspension? Or should I start off first with the roll-cage and safety equipment? Any logical reasons for doing anything in any particular order?

The only thing I can think of to maybe NOT do first is gut it and make it hellaciously loud with a full-on race exhaust because I'll need to street the car over the winter while I'm working on it. Though removing the interior will be necessary for cage work...

thoughts?

 

Strip car, Save for Custom Cage and safety stuff.. Start with cheap suspension, like KYB's and GC's... Tires/wheels are a big thing too...

 

First thing - Helmet, brake pads and decent street tires. Start running HPDEs with the car. Leave it stock as long as possible.

 

Order of development $$ spending: (after safety gear, cage etc.)

1 - Driver
2 - Suspension
3 - Engine
4 - Upgrade to painted helmet

 

It sure would make things a lot easier for you if it wasn't your daily commuter. These types of projects tend to leave the car in peices, and it's not always possible to finish what you've started by the next day. Save the motor stuff for last. If it runs, it's good enough. Focus on getting the thing safe first and replace any worn out suspension and brake parts.

For what it's worth, my current engine is bone stock with 190,000 miles. It runs a bit rough, but it makes good power and gets me around the track just fine.

 

I see your point - but here's my situation. I've been doing HPDE's for 2 years in my ITR and my LS previous to that, probably 15 track days. That's why I got the Civic, for w2w racing. Unfortunately, I just now got the car in running order so I haven't had a chance to even take it to the track (of the series I'm racing in next year) so I have no benchmark time-wise to go from. I would like to drive it fairly stock like you say, but to be competitive in March when it starts, I need to get it race prepped, and I'm serious about it.

 

Check my sig, I do have daily transportation, that's not the problem. I simply meant to say that I'd like to be able to drive it from place to place occasionally, specially when transporting it to places for different work to be done. I didn't like the idea of gutting it and having a loud-*** race exhaust until I was ready for race season in March and possibly have a trailer to tow it with. My father will be crewing for me and he has a couple trucks we can use for towing at that time.

Agreed. Thanks. I've already started work on the brakes too, forgot to mention that. And actually, the series I will be racing in allows engine swaps, which was something I was considering previously. After talking with one of the more experienced people in my class in that series, and a good HT thread on the topic, I decided to stay stock. At least until I see just how competitive or not competitive, as it may be, the D16 engine will be. But I figured at least do cheap I/H/E. Did you do at least I/H/E to yours?

 

First off, do the free stuff. Gut it, strip the tar, remove the emmissions (unless you need it streetable), remove AC, remove stereo, etc.

Do all the tune-up stuff, but no mods. Replace brake calieprs, master cylinder as needed. Check tie rod ends and ball joints and axle/cv joint boots. Change all the fluids (engine oil, trans oil, radiator fluid). Replace thermostat, coolant hoses (don't forget the ones to the heater core), radiator cap.

If the car runs well at this point, then move on. If not, then you have to decide why it isn't, if it is worth fixing now (or waiting for it to grenade), etc.

Next tackle the safety stuff. Find a local fabricator. If you are going to use a bolt-in cage, have larger plates welded to the floor. Or do a full custom cage. Pick a seat that is light and comfortable and meets the current FIA standards. Pick a good 6 point harness and mount it properly (do a search or ask). Add a fire suppression system - bite the bullet and get a three nozzle system - they are only about $250. Add kill switch and window net.

At this point the car is raceable. Start doing HPDEs and start thinking about your SCCA Competition License schools (or NASA or whoever).

After you've done a few HPDE to debug the car, buy a set of cheap racing wheels (Diamond Racing comes to mind). Throw on some shaved Kumho or Toyo race tires. Use the stock wheels for rains and/or backups (full tread Toyo or Kumho).

This is enough to get you safely through your initial SCCA licensing requirements. As you move through your first season of racing, develop the suspension as money allows. Start with swaybars, ground control (or other coilover kit), and some single adjustable Konis.

Up until this point, the car is still a comfortable track car that any jackass can drive. You might be able to keep it licensed/registered for street use (not that i recommend it, but I fully realize many people start out driving their racecars to the track). Going beyond this point makes it a full blown race car that is finicky, harder to drive, and slightly less useful for HPDE type events, and totally undrivable on the street.

Then start engine development with simple bolt-ons. Header, cat-back, intake, etc.

Continue developing suspension. Stiffer springs, custom valved shocks, bearings or polyurethane or delrin at suspension pivot points.

Don't even think about tearing the engine down until it blows up OR you are fast enough and consistent enough to warrant the expense.

 

if you hold off on the engine upgrades, you'll save a good $500-$700 (that is, if you buy quality parts). that's your suspension setup right there (or atleast a good chunk of it). the time you'll save with a better supsension will far outweigh time gained from ~8-10hp.

 

Okay, here's a quick list of things off the top of my head that I see as priority (not in any particular order)

- Brakes: new front pads (race), rotors, fluid, and new rear drums

- Suspension 1: cheap vs. expensive, ex: GC/Koni vs. Tein or Buddy Club

- Suspension 2: sway bars (can i go larger in ITA?), strut bars, camber kit, LCA's?, etc.

- Wheels/tires: stick with 14" vs. bigger?? lightweight, widest allowed for ITA, and race rubber (victoracers most likely)

- Go-fast: engine seems strong, only 130k miles (stock). I/H/E & tuning - also, can I replace the cam or other internals (down the road) and stay in ITA specs?

- Transmission: new clutch & flywheel (again, whatever is in ITA spec)

- Safety: full welded cage and fire-system to SCCA specs, race-seat and harnesses

- Free Stuff: gut car, remove AC, etc.

that was just off the top of my head, what am I missing?

 

sounds like you need to consult the GCR... be very careful if your prepping for ITA - there are many pitfalls...

 

Before I go any further. BUY THE RULEBOOK!!!!!! The GCR (General Competition Rules) is the bible as far as Club Racing is concerned. DO NOT DO ANYTHING UNTIL YOU HAVE THE GCR!!!!! Please, do it now so you don't make a mess of your car.

DO THIS FIRST...

Yup. Top priority.

Yup. This should be at the top of the list.

Only option #1 is ITA legal. It is also most than adequate for the new racer.

no front bar (or stock). 19mm-22mm rear bar (try to find a fully adjustable). Call OPM (http://www.opmmotorsports.com/) and see what they recommend.

Strut bars are legal, but not a priority. Have a fabricator make a rear bar that uses the same mount points as the rear stays on the rollcage.

LCAs - not legal.

Camber kit - only eccentic bushings are allowed. Again, contact OPM.

What diameter does the car have stock? That is the size required in ITA, though you can use up to 7" width. Call Diamond Racing Wheels for cheap steel race wheels.

I/H/E. Internally, the engine must remain stock. Buy the GCR for details. Don't bother doing anything at this point.

Buy the GCR!!!!!! Clutch is free, flywheel must remain stock. FD is free, but transmission gearing is stock. Don't bother with any of this unless you need it.

It's free, so it is a no-brainer. Just make sure you don't gut beyond what the GCR allows (hmm, see a trend? Buy the GCR!!!!)

You're not missing anything. EXCEPT THE GCR!!!!!!

I don't mean to sound rude, but the SCCA has a very large and complex set of rules to follow. The rules encompass everything from safety to suspension to engine. You have to have the book, have a large portion of it memorzied (they will quiz you at the licensing schools), and also read all the monthly updates that are attached to SportCar Magazine (which is published by the SCCA).

 

check check and check!

yes- agreed. And kill switch and window net, 2 things i didn't list above (i was typing my post while you were typing yours)

Just to clarify, though I am wishing to build the car to ITA spec, I do not intend to race it in SCCA sanctioned events next year. I will be starting my competition in a local series that has their own requirements and rules, but I want the car to be ready for SCCA when the time comes.

Though I have no *true* w2w experience thus far, I feel I am ready (and the series coordinator agrees) to start, at least in this particular environment in this series. The local series is a 9-race season, all at the same track (www.hallettracing.com) and as I said, governs itself and has it's own rules and requirements. I have driven this track for 2 years in their non-competitive series in my Type-R (and my LS previous to that) and will get my competitive license for their series in March.

So while I have some concern jumping into a new car (while not all that different from the FF Integras I have been driving for several years) that is already fully-prepped, I want to do it right the first time and not start with something I plan on changing out later for something better. (such as starting with light suspension mods then replacing it 3 months later when I'm unsatisfied with it)

Having said all that, I am prompted to realize that I will have to at least do a couple non-w2w events next year once the Civic is prepped - instead of jumping into my first w2w race in an unfamiliar car all at the same time. In fact, it would be plain stupid not to, no matter how comforable or good I already feel I am in the ITR... as the preped Civic will be a completely new beast. I guess I am impatient and I need to remember this isn't golf, it's racing, and I can't be impatient about moving up when there are real risks involved.

another good point, thanks.

And thanks to everyone else that puts up with my thinking-out-loud posts. It's this kind of dialogue that really helps me figure out what to do when I am having questions... not so much that I can't make up my mind for myself, as getting advice from people who have experience previously making the same right and wrong decisions

 

$170 for 10 sessions? Hallett/Comma has great entry fees. Here in DC we pay $175 for a weekend that includes 2 qualifying sessions and 1 race (with the SCCA). NASA is a slightly better buy at $189 for 6 sesions.

 

Don't get wrapped up in motor development and the measley HP gains of bolt-on stuff. For your first season, run cheap junkyard motors 'til they die. That's one less thing you'll have to worry about, and one less thing you'll have money tied to. Like I said, if it runs, it's ready.

PS, order a GCR today.

$.02

 

you betchya

point well taken - thanks again man, very good perspective, I appreciate it!

just did!

 

Anyone have links to some good Improved Touring forums or websites?

thanks all!

 

http://www.improvedtouring.com has a fairly active forum.
http://www.wheeltowheel.com is a very active email list - discussion usually isn't technical, more about general racing, but the regular posters are pretty experienced