The most important thing you learned when you started tuning
Everyone has the one thing they learn when beginning something that just makes everything click. So what was it for you guys when you started tuning?
the most important thing I learned when I started tuning is that there are a zillion things that are equally dubbed most important.
a couple to start though:
- if ignition timing is more than a couple degrees off, afr will actually read incorrectly
- datalog only ONE gear, I use 3rd. avoid that gear at all times except when following a trace, aka slowly and smoothly keeping the manifold pressure as close as possible to the number in the column you're trying to datalog for. you don't want surrounding cells skewing your readings. and jerky or twitchy throttle action will skew the readings a ton too
- compensations are just as important as everything else. you can get the tune absolutely flawless for the weather at the time, but 24 hours later it can be way off again due to some minor temp changes if the compensations are not correct.
a couple to start though:
- if ignition timing is more than a couple degrees off, afr will actually read incorrectly
- datalog only ONE gear, I use 3rd. avoid that gear at all times except when following a trace, aka slowly and smoothly keeping the manifold pressure as close as possible to the number in the column you're trying to datalog for. you don't want surrounding cells skewing your readings. and jerky or twitchy throttle action will skew the readings a ton too
- compensations are just as important as everything else. you can get the tune absolutely flawless for the weather at the time, but 24 hours later it can be way off again due to some minor temp changes if the compensations are not correct.
I definitely agree with the correction factor advice.
another thing I learned is to periodically rename and save your files as your tuning. in case of some technical glitch or over compensation In the tune you always have something functional to revert back to
another thing I learned is to periodically rename and save your files as your tuning. in case of some technical glitch or over compensation In the tune you always have something functional to revert back to
- Make sweeping adjustments first. Don't try to hit your target AFR cell by cell until you are mostly finished
- Make sure you are tuning the car when IAT / ECT compensations are zeroed. Then go back and when the weather changes, make adjustments to those tables while car is warming up, really hot etc.
- Use your left foot to brake and apply varying load and holding rpm to sweep through the rev range. This will allow you to use lower gears and not be speeding all over the place.
- With boost, once you get one fuel curve for a set boost level, simply copy the column and paste it into the next level and add 5-10% depending on the setup. It should get you very close off the bat and WOT tuning will be a breeze.
.05 electronics in general will always fail when you really need it...
1 crome will always fail when you really need it lol
2 don't buy the cheapest option
3 don't drive without a wideband ( you really have no idea where your AFRs are)
1 crome will always fail when you really need it lol
2 don't buy the cheapest option
3 don't drive without a wideband ( you really have no idea where your AFRs are)
First thing I learned..
1. I'm not a Renaissance man, so I can't/ don't want to know everything
2. Leave it to the professionals in the meantime, and pay for it. (I know you hate that)
3. Go to a formal class. That way you know what you can do right/wrong on someone else's car. best $400 I've ever spent.
4. I'm not a tuner, so the wideband is for access to what was stated in step 2.
1. I'm not a Renaissance man, so I can't/ don't want to know everything
2. Leave it to the professionals in the meantime, and pay for it. (I know you hate that)
3. Go to a formal class. That way you know what you can do right/wrong on someone else's car. best $400 I've ever spent.
4. I'm not a tuner, so the wideband is for access to what was stated in step 2.
First thing I learned..
1. I'm not a Renaissance man, so I can't/ don't want to know everything
2. Leave it to the professionals in the meantime, and pay for it. (I know you hate that)
3. Go to a formal class. That way you know what you can do right/wrong on someone else's car. best $400 I've ever spent.
4. I'm not a tuner, so the wideband is for access to what was stated in step 2.
1. I'm not a Renaissance man, so I can't/ don't want to know everything
2. Leave it to the professionals in the meantime, and pay for it. (I know you hate that)
3. Go to a formal class. That way you know what you can do right/wrong on someone else's car. best $400 I've ever spent.
4. I'm not a tuner, so the wideband is for access to what was stated in step 2.

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An EFI class in North Carolina for Haltech, Motech, and Open Source. this was about 2 years ago, and 4 of us went to the class. It was a private tutorial session.
I'm trying to remember the name myself. My fabricator set everything up for us.
I'm trying to remember the name myself. My fabricator set everything up for us.
The most important thing?
1. The four stroke cycle isn't perfect 180 degree per cycle. It begins when the intake or exhaust valve closes, and the strokes overlap each other because of cam overlap..
2. Why you need ignition timing advance (see 1)
3. Ignition timing changes the amount of fuel needed to get target AFR
4. Need wideband, so you can correct for AFR (see no 3)
5. Good to have EGT, so you know when you're running too much advance or too little (they both get real hot)
6. Heat kills LSU4.2/4.9 sensors, that's why (see no. 5)
7. More cells = more work . (if you see an aftermarket ecu saying it has 1024 boxes, that's a few hundred extra cells to do)
8. Some cells, the ECU will NEVER see.
9. You don't tune individual cells, you tune that cell and the adjacent ones whenever possible (they read in between too), keeping in mind possible compensations in effect
10 Need to learn cam timing adjustments so you can move your usable power into the range suitable for what you're using the engine for. (for engines not running stock engine setups)
11. Done right, Can pay the bills.
1. The four stroke cycle isn't perfect 180 degree per cycle. It begins when the intake or exhaust valve closes, and the strokes overlap each other because of cam overlap..
2. Why you need ignition timing advance (see 1)
3. Ignition timing changes the amount of fuel needed to get target AFR
4. Need wideband, so you can correct for AFR (see no 3)
5. Good to have EGT, so you know when you're running too much advance or too little (they both get real hot)
6. Heat kills LSU4.2/4.9 sensors, that's why (see no. 5)
7. More cells = more work . (if you see an aftermarket ecu saying it has 1024 boxes, that's a few hundred extra cells to do)
8. Some cells, the ECU will NEVER see.
9. You don't tune individual cells, you tune that cell and the adjacent ones whenever possible (they read in between too), keeping in mind possible compensations in effect
10 Need to learn cam timing adjustments so you can move your usable power into the range suitable for what you're using the engine for. (for engines not running stock engine setups)
11. Done right, Can pay the bills.
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