I recently installed a new timing belt and water pump kit on my 1990 EF and had some trouble starting it due to the practically dead battery (was being jumped) and not being started in about a month. There was also a head gasket leak which was repaired with a sealer poured into the radiator. This was done on a Saturday, then it sat and come Tuesday was used for a short roughly 5 mile drive. While leaving a parking stall it bogged, CEL turned on, then turned off after restarting the car. I started to drive again and as I hit lower RON's it would bog again and the CEL would turn back on so I would floor it which would barely give any power, and if I managed to prevent the stall the CEL would turn off. Finally after a couple more close calls she bogged one last time and didn't start again, only cranks. I was told this could be a bad O2 sensor but that shouldn't be causing the problems right? I was also told the sealer didn't set right and failed allowing coolant to get into the motor but it appears that I still have coolant. Was also told it could be a faulty ECU. My gauge says I have gas and I dont think its broken...anyone know what the problem is before I start throwing money in for nothing?

 

What code is the CEL?

 

Sorry totally blew over my head that if the car isn't running the CEL is always on. But if it should still be coding the LED in my ECU is not flashing.

 

Recheck electrical and mechanical timing. 94

 

Quick question. Does my model have a oil sensor? And if it Does, is it advanced enough to have the capability to shut the motor off at say low levels? My oil light is currently on I'm buying oil tomorrow and just put in better plugs today. Praying this works.

 

low oil pressure shouldnt shut the motor off, just run in limp mode and give a CEL most likely. if it still doesnt work after filling oil then check your ecu code/s if you can.
otherwise start swapping known working parts in like distributor, ecu, main relay

 

Fixed that for you.

 

sorry boss i'll stay out of everyone else's threads from now on

 

Ok I put the new oil and filter in and she still won't start??? I'm thinking maybe a no crank? But that leaves me stumped because the distributer cap, coil, rotor, ICM and starter are all the first things I replaced before all this. Brand new. Its not the battery because I have a relatively new battery in while also connected to a jumper. I tried cleaning my ground wires yesterday.

 

Are you now saying engine does not crank, [starter motor not working]? 94

 

No it still cranks and does not turn over. Do you guys think maybe it just wasn't timed right?

 

Crank and "turn over" are the same thing, your saying it does not fire/start.

Anyway, basic stuff, check for compression, use an HEI spark tester to test for spark, and confirm you have fuel, into the cylinders, [pull spark plug, it should be "wet" with gas.

If all the above is good, check mechanical and electrical timing. 94

 

I'm gonna double check the timing first. But is it possible that the pistons are fusing/rubbing on the block? I replaced the oil and filter and found no metal shavings. The car cranks at its normal speed every time, hasn't slowed or developed new sounds. Theres still a LOT of coolant in the radiator. Oil light is off. Can I rule out a blown head gasket, coolant leaking into the motor, and the piston situation?

 

None of those potential coolant issues would cause this. And I highly doubt your pistons decided to seize out of the blue... plus it's turning over. So the engine is rotating. From the sounds of it, I'd recommend taking it to a repair shop.

Does your fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? And when you do this (key on, engine off), does your check engine light come on and turn off a few seconds later?

 

Check engine light stays on as it normally would when the engine isn't running. I'm pretty sure it's priming and even if it isn't I wired it to the battery a few times to make sure it's priming.

 

Re-timed it today. Found that there's no spark. Thinking it's the ECU since the ignition coil, Rotor, cap, and ICM are all new. Took the cap off, put a plug hose next to the coil to see and nothing happened.

 

Do you have power at the injectors?

If not. check PGM-FI Main Relay, the fuel injector relay that supplies power to the injectors also supplies power to IGP 1 and IGP 2 of the ECU.

The PGM-FI Main Relay will "click" 3 times, drop relay and hold it in your hand and turn on the ign., relay should click 2 times, the clicks are very close together and can sound/feel like one click, first click is the fuel injector relay turning on and the second click is the fuel pump relay turning on.

When you turn on the ign. the CEL will also turn on and stay on for about 3-4 sec. as the fuel pump primes, [you should be able to hear the pump running.

After that 3-4 sec. the PGM-FI Main Relay will click a third time, [fuel pump relay turning off] and the CEL will turn off.

Is all of the above happening??? 94

 

That was very confusing. I had a friend come by and plug his ECU In. He put it in secondary mode or something and said the CEL should turn off and That his ECU isn't flashing code. The previous owners tried to do a wire tuck (very poorly it's like a rats nest) so he said something probably happened and that I should try replacing the wire harness.

 

What part is confusing?

Test the injector leads, [the ones that are the same color at each injector] do you have 12V+ at them when ign. is on and when cranking to start?

Hold the PGM-FI main relay in your hand and turn on the ign. the relay should "click" the CEL should turn on and you should hear the hum of the fuel pump.

After a few sec. the relay will "click" again and the fuel pump will stop, "humming" and the CEL will go out, is that happening? 94

 

Fuel isn't my issue. I'm not getting spark from the ignition coil which is brand new. A plug wire was placed next to it to make it arc, and a plug was placed next to metal to make it arc. Neither was sicsuccessful. Is his conclusion about a problem with the cabin harness right?

 

If the PGM-FI Main Relay is not working then there is no power to IGP 1 and 2 of the ECU, and that is a problem, so again check the PGM-FI Main Relay or at the very least check for power to the injectors and IGP 1 and 2 of the ECU. 94

 

It is fine. Brand new in fact. The CEL does not turn off, again that was made clear and tested. And CEL's won't turn off if the car isn't on. As I said I'm getting fuel, that's not my problem. I need to know why my brand new coil isn't sparking

 

Im in a similar situation. Maybe their is a way to test the distributor? Is their a crank sensor in the timing belt area that could have been unplugged?

 

CEL should turn off after fuel pump stops priming.

If IGP 1 and 2 are not receiving power,[ from PGM-FI Main Relay] functions of the ECU will not turn on.

Just because the PGM-FI Main Relay is new, [if that is what you are saying] does not mean it is doing it's job.

Confirm you have power at the injectors and IGP1 and 2 at the ECU.

Again the CEL SHOULD go out in a few sec. after ign. is turned on, if not the problem is the ECU or power to it. 94

 

Fcm has given some excellent advice to troubleshoot your problems and you're dismissing all of it.

At the end of the day, your problem could be anything if someone has hacked up your harness.