01 accord 4 cyl with 136k. I have had car for over a year. Know prev over that bought new. Car has ran fine till yesterday. Drove Cincy to Nashville, 6.5 hour drive. Went to start car next morning nothing. Just turned over that was it. Cracked fuel line where it comes in by the firewall and turned on key and got healthy flow of gas. Checked for spark, had spark. tried to start if a few times yesterday, nothing. Rattled the key while in ignition to see if that was it, nothing.
Go out today to give the tow truck driver the keys, FIRED RIGHT UP.
I tried the key jiggle again, it stayed running.
WTH? Cars do not fix them selves. No rain, cool conditions.
Any idea's?

 

Based on your symptoms and mileage, I would lean towards the ignition switch as being the culprit.

 

+1 for the ignition switch. I just had a very similar issue where a 2000 4 cylinder sometimes would not start, or hard start when it did.

I took the switch apart and sanded the contacts and it worked again. Temporary bandaid and confirmation of the problem.

When you remove the old switch, note there are 3 screws on the black protective cover. Two on the side and one facing forward that is kind of hard to get to. So you don't remove the side two and then break it pulling it out of there.

Either unplug the switch first or remove a battery terminal so you don't accidentally touch the steering column during removal and pop the ignition fuse.

Basically just follow this guide, he shows where all of the screws are:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/I...-Switch/3285/1

Just ordered a new OEM switch from here for $50 -- what a deal.
01 to 03 Acura CL 99 to 03 TL Ignition Switch $50 00 | eBay

You may want to buy from here for a few bucks more since it is closer to you geographically and will arrive more quickly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182064409348

Here's the TSB for reference: http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/ignition_switch.pdf

Go new OEM only, this gen accord is picky and anything else will fail sooner causing further headaches.

 

I am being told to look at the crank sensor or sensor in the dizzy.
So here I it being the ign switch.

 

The TSB does not list my year as needing this switch repair

 

I have the factory alarm system with the green flashing KEY (or what ever it is) so do I need a specific part for mine, or will any one from 98-2002 work on my car if I do this.

 

If the ign switch is bad how did I have spark? If the sensor in the dizzy is bad how did I have spark? If the cam pos sensor is bad why did I have spark?
It was not running at all, no puttering nothing, just cranked over like hell.

 

If you didn't fix it already, I would suspicion the fuel injectors are clogged. Try Scotty Kilmer's YouTube video "How to clean fuel injectors in your car"

 

Fuel injectors? the car has NEVER presented any running issues now at 136k. I'd think if they were dirty it would run like ****. Then anyway, after a day of sitting it fires right up and has so since. FI, don't know.

 

Been starting up fine for 2 days, this morning it turned over longer then usual but then it fired and drove off to work.

 

Now I am getting hard starts and had a stall attempt coming to a stop sign. What ever is going is progressing.
I see on my 01 the fuel filter is part of the fuel PUMP. WTH.
Should I have any codes for a bad crank sensor or anything else other then a bad fuel pump?

 

Well today I threw some money at the car today. Put on a new cap and rotor and what I called a ign module. Hitachi parts as what was orig. Don't know if the no starts will continue but today as it did the other day when I came to a stop and it tried to die today I just rev'd the motor and it died out a few times coming back down to idle.
What could this be? Still no check lights. Cam position sensor not reading every time and killing it?

 

when running, smooth as can be, no misses, no check lights, have checked for codes, none. Something is telling the computer to act the way it is.

 

still sounds like an electrical problem, main relay or fuel pump relay getting flaky maybe.

 

I should update the ignition switch did not end up fixing mine as I suggested above, and the same issue persists. I started a separate thread as to not discuss in yours.

 

Looking at the site there are MANY threads all with similar issue going right now.

 

Where are the relays I should be looking at. What still gets me the first WHOLE day it would not start, I cracked the gas line where it comes into the motor area and had someone turn the key but not start, it has a STRONG stream and then I checked for spark. It was fine.
If a relay were bad at that moment that controlled FIRE or GAS I would have not had one or the other if a relay was out.
With FIRE and GAS present this still points to the crank positioner to me.
If it were a ignition switch issue, if it were bad i would not be getting FIRE, correct?
It no starting for a whole day and now cold starts and a few no starts still then the stalling out when you would come to a stop, tells me the crank thing is losing where it is at and trying to shut her down? If so would I still have gas and spark???

 

I think one theory with the switch is when you release from start position to run position, it travels across and bridges the two contacts, and could cut out momentarily. It could also be worn out in the start position only.
I took the old one apart (very easy) and could see some sign of it being worn out at the edge of the run position as the switch fell back to that position from start. Without one that is fully dead it is hard to say for sure. For those who have the car die while running/driving the switch is more likely the culprit, but I don't think it is related to our starting issue.

I tend to agree with you that it seems sensor related??

 

Is the car actually cranking when it's not starting ? It's possible the main relay is bad. It supplies power to the fuel pump AND power to the injectors. You may have fuel but not injector pulse. You would need a noid light to confirm.