1993 Del sol s, b20v swap, S80 LS trans. Trans came from a running and driving car. Was swapped into the car, filled with Honda mtf and sat garaged for the winter checked up on often. Pulling the car out for the summer starts up no hesitation, I can put it into first but once moving cannot change gears to any other position. If stopped it can also go into any gear.

When the swap was done it got a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throwout. Fluid is still topped off, clutch is bled.

I am finding it hard to believe all of the sychros went out at the same time. I'm stumped send help, please.

 

Update: so it seems the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Bled the system again, not a bubble. Slave cylinder?

 

could be the slave cylinder or maybe the throw out bearing. Have you checked if the clutch fork is not out of place?

 

The throw out bearing/fork is what I came to as well. Just finding time to pull it again. Thanks for the reply, I'll post updates.

 

Update: Pulled the swap, separated the trans and pulled the clutch, and pressure plate off. The after noticing how much pressure was needed to push the finger on the pressure plate down, I went back to the slave cylinder.

With someone pumping, and holding the clutch pedal, I am able to hold the slave in my hand and push the ball/rod in with my thumb alone. So it seems the system isn't applying the force needed to engage the fingers on the pressure plate.

Again, no leaks or bubbles in the system. So I'm thinking master or slave. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

 

Is the clutch pedal firm or soft?

 

With the engine in the car and the slave pushing the fork, the clutch felt almost normal, maybe slightly soft. But almost the same as the car I drive daily.
When we were messing with the slave cylinder and pumping the pedal, I could hold the rod in the slave and the pedal could be pushed to the floor without effort.

 

As much as you don't want to hear it, it sounds like it was bled improperly to me. Even using a vacuum bleeder (Mityvac) I still had issues with trapped air on the last clutch master & slave cylinders I changed on a '00 Civic. However, to be fair on that one the entire system was evacuated for a full fluid swap before the parts were changed.

In my experience if the clutch master is leaking externally (into the cabin) it becomes harder to press the pedal. When the clutch master is leaking internally the pedal becomes softer if not non-existing.

With the slave cylinder if it fails it almost always leaks externally due to the design. A lot of people damage them when they try to force the rod back into the bore when things are misaligned.

BUT either component could cause the same symptoms you are having in my experience. These parts rarely fail (when compared to brake master cylinders), and since work was recently done I would still lean towards the bleeding.

To be completely honest though, for the price of a new slave (~$13) and clutch master (~$35) and the hour it would take to swap them out and bleed the line it's worth just throwing parts at it at this point. I am sure the brake fluid is adding up by now, heck one liter of my brake fluid costs more than the slave cylinder LOL!