I've been having a crank/no start issue on my 94 Integra RS.

I've been reading tons and tons of posts on here, many of which have been quite helpful.

Here's the scoop:

-My car ran fine, apart from taking longer and longer to start while cranking for the past four or five start ups. Eventually it just didn't start. It never stalled while driving, and there weren't any irregular running symptoms or weird noises in the engine.

-I have a very weak blue spark when I crank the engine. Weak enough to not spark with a brand new out of the box plug. I've proven this both by grounding a plug, and by shorting the coil with a wire to ground. Shorting the coil gave the very weak spark, so weak it wouldn't jump more than a millimetre.

-My distributor passed all the tests on this link (very helpful) Team Integra Forums - Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting
I performed all of these tests with a very accurate Multimeter which I know my way around on, and a test light. I also tested the resistance of the CKP sensor inside the distributor, and I got a reading of 360 Ohms, which is in the range of what it's supposed to be. I also tested for continuity on the two wires for the CKP between the sensor and the ECU, as well as ground short tests for both wires. All checked out fine.

-I also tested for continuity on the YEL/GRN wire for the ICM, and the wire is fine. However, the YEL/GRN wire does NOT have any voltage readings when ignition is turned to II. I have read on here that it is meant to have 5-10 volts.

-I checked the ECU, there doesn't appear to be any pins damaged or disconnected in the harness. I also checked the actual ECU circuit board, no burns or any signs of damage. I also looked into the ECU not being properly grounded, although the grounding point attached to the thermostat housing has a good connection.

-The timing belt is on and the engine is in time.

-It's not a fuel issue. The main relay comes on and the fuel pump charges the system. We also sprayed ether in the intake while cranking, so if there was any hint of spark it would've gone.

I've purchased a distributor that will get to me Tuesday, as I figured I may as well get rid of some human error in testing, and I honestly have no other ideas. Maybe one of the magnetic sensor inside has worn out.

I'm at wits end, and have no vehicle. Any help would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

Thank you

**Update**
Issue is fixed! New dizzy did the trick.

 

Please. When you do find the answer, post up so that someone else who has the same issue can fix it.

 

Most likely coil or ICM, a new distributor should solve the problem, 94

 

First of all, turn the key, and see how long it takes the CEL to go out. If the light stays on for more than a couple seconds, your ECU is in fact going bad. (the light will stay on, pump will prime after a minute literally a MINUTE and the light will go out). I have heard a lot about the relays and ignitions in these cars having trouble. If you keep the key turned, in the start position, and it fires and runs while holding it in start, the ignition is bad! Relays are really cheap, 15$ so even if its not that, its not a big deal. I personally had a recent no start, where I bought a fuel pump, not realizing the problem was actually my ECU! Ironically enough, that aftermarket fuel pump failed almost immediately! I bought a new one, whole assembly, pump, bracket, and wires for 130$ and it fired up like I was just driving it yesterday! I ended up buying 2 ECUs, a new dizzy, and a TPS before I went back the pump! The pump would prime, I had fuel at the rail, but it WOULD NOT RUN MY CAR! These are just some tips, but I have to admit it kind of sounds like your problem is distributor related, seeing as it would take longer and longer to start. I'm thinking possibly the coil also as fcm mentioned, cheaper than replacing the whole dizzy. Also, use COPPER plugs if you can! My 92 eats platinum plugs (I ALWAYS use 91 octane or higher fuel!) Good Luck!

 

check the clutch switch and the plastic stopper where it pushes onto the clutch, see if that is even there or pretty much break into pieces. Or you can bypass by using a paper clip cut into a U shape and stick inside the clutch switch I forgot what it is call.

 

If the clutch switch was the problem it wouldn't crank at all, it disrupts the starter signal.

I agree with fcm, this definitely sounds like a distributor problem. You can get the coil and ICM out of any B-series engine in the junkyard. When mine went out I got a new ICM and coil from a junkyard DA Integra, swapped them into my OBD2 dizzy, and it started right up.

 

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra