After I bought the car, 95 accord, the gas gauge was about 1/2 way and working. When it got low, naturally I filled it. After that the gas gauge stayed on full, where it sits now. I have no idea how much gas is in this car, but I have put more than half a tank in since. I don't have my repair manual on me (at work) but am curious on fixing the gauge, so I have a couple questions.
1. How do I properly release the fuel pressure?
I don't want gas blowing all over my face when I do it.
2. I have seen some videos on 90-93 accords where the pump and sending unit were seperate, and videos on 98-02 accords where they appear to be on the same assembly. Which one does the 94-97 resemble most?
3. When testing the unit, if I pull the plug and the gauge drops to empty, does that guarantee that the issue is the sending unit?
4. I pulled the spare tire cover/liner from the trunk. Is this the access hatch that I am looking for?



Thanks in advance for helping me fix my car.

 

94-97 have no access to the pump from the interior.
It's a gas tank dropping experience. Access panel does not allow access to the pump/sender, only to the outside electrical connections.

However before blaming the float, check your resistances from the float.

If the gauge cluster has ever been removed or molested the wire that attaches to the fuel gauge is very small gauge. If the screws to the fuel gauge were touched most likely the wire was broken and will require soldering to fix. Also check the wires going into the cluster, sometimes the pins can loosen up or back out of the plastic connector

 

Go figure the one car I buy lol. I was actually going to just see if moving the float would make it work again, I could be lucky. The cluster was pulled (maybe replaced) before i bought the car. Somebody removed the CEL AND SRS bulbs, the gauge worked then. I pulled the cluster to replace the bulbs, that was right about the time the gauge got stuck. I can't remember if i put the gas in before or after i pulled the cluster. I'm generally pretty careful, but i may have actually broken it. I don't really want to pull the tank if the sender is bad, simply because I have no idea how much gas it has.

How can I check the cluster?

I know how I can check the wiring to the sender, I have a feeling that's not my problem.
Would I just take my ohm meter to the cluster connections to check the gauge?

Also, could the needle just be jammed at full?

 

Just me but the fuel pump and the fuel level sensor are two different things and located in two different places.

The fuel level sender will come out without dropping the tank.....now I'll go drink more coffee and wake up