Ok my name is Jason. I bought a 96 accord 2.2 non vtec and got some issues. I'm not q mechanic so that's why I'm on here. Its a automatic... I wanted a 5 spd but can't find a person to trade me. First problem the transmission is shifting hard, pink/red fluid, no metal flakes or shininess, doesn't smell burnt, now I don't know if its mounts or possibly the transmission control solenoids which have quite a bit of rust on them... When going up a hill it will go up to 4rpms and then jerk then go back to normal rpms ( around 2) and when starting to move it jerks when shifts. Any suggestions other than flushing tranny? Another this is where the belts are for ac and ect. The lower part I think its by the oil pan there is a gasket hanging around looks sort of u shape dont know what its from and the under side of motor has old oil build up from about o2 sensor down on the motor... Any suggestions there. It has 193,000 and don't know what type motor it has in it I've seen ha in motor but by the belts it says f22b2 so don't quite know so ill include my vin number maybe that can put to rest that question, so here is the vin : 1HGCD5696TA257555 ... Thank you for all your help guys and gals and as I said I'm new to this site so sorry for same post/ form if its been asked before

 

Moved to a more appropriate section The 1990-2002 Accord section.

 

These transmissions are known to shift pretty firm.
If you have no records of when the fluid was replaced, do it.
DO NOT FLUSH!
Only drain and refill 3X. Check the magnetic drain plug for excess slurry/debris. The junk will sink to the bottom of the sump and not show up on the dipstick. Wipe clean when done.
Honda ATs are low pressure units, a flush machine will damage the internal seals.

If the transmission is shifting hard there are a few things you will need to verify.

Check for any stored codes.
Being a 96, you would more descriptive codes from the OBDII port(located behind ash tray), but you can check OBD codes via the two wire blue connector behind/below the glovebox door. Jumper the connector with a wire, turn the key to II(ON) and check the CEL/D4/ABS/SRS for any blinking codes.

If any codes appear, post them here. Automatic shifting function is greatly affected by the running condition of the engine. If the engine is out of tune, the transmission will shift incorrectly. Fix any known problems with the engine before blaming the transmission. Stuck open Thermostat, faulty thermosensor, incorrect timing, worn spark plugs, low compression, etc will affect how the transmission operates. Back probe the various sensors to verify they are working correctly. A faulty TPS may not set a code but will affect(delay) shift points.

Check the throttle cable.
Verify it does not have excessive slack, verify it is not keeping the throttle open either.

Check the throttle valve cable going down to the transmission.
With the throttle closed, verify the adjustment on the cable, there should be no slack nor tension. When the throttle begins to open the lever on the transmission should begin to lift. Verify the lever functions normally, it should move up and down smoothly.

With the car off.
Disconnect the shift solenoid electrical connectors.
With a jumper wire connected to the + terminal of the battery, directly power the solenoid. They should all turn on/off with an audible click.
Verify the screens on the solenoids are clean and free of debris.
Reinstall.

Right side cover behind the right wheel.
Remove the two shaft speed sensors. #15 & #16

Verify they are clean of any junk from the ends, clean off and reinstall.



There are three belts.
Alternator.
Power steering.
A/C.
Not sure what gasket you may be talking about.
Timing belt cover does have a dust seal that is U shaped. Oil pan uses a flat gasket.
If your engine is original, does not have VTEC, it would be the F22B2.
If you have no records of when the timing belt/waterpump were done then have them both replaced soon. If the belt breaks the pistons will hit any open valves and bend them, requiring a head rebuild.

 

Just to clarify, the 1996 has two accessory belts.
1. Alt and A/C
2. Pwr st.

If you have oil from the O2 sensor down, I would say you had a valve cover gasket leak at one point. that or the camshaft seal.
I agree that it might be time for full timing belt maintenance.

This includes;
Valve cover gaskets,
Water pump
Timing and balancer belts
Timing belt Adjuster and bearings
and a valve adjustment

Could also look into the camshaft seal and balance shaft seal while you have to timing cover and crank pulley removed.

And the HA - F22B2 is the Non VTEC 2.2L SOHC engine.

 

Tons of help guys. Sorry this is wrong place feel free to move if you can. Thanks for clarifying the motor type. I had a mechanic check it out and the front motor mount is bad so were hoping that being fixed first week of April will fix the shift. Or at least make it alot easier. The water pump gasket is worn out so bad from previous owner it is hanging so I limp it to work and back only 5 miles but I hope it'll last seeing as it will cost $525 to do water pump timing belt component kit. Only other question is what can I do to this motor to make it a bit faster once its back to 100% for a reasonable cost. Is it worth putting vtec into this motor at the miles it has or buy a lower mile motor and vtec that? I'm going to try to go to Ann arbor Michigan from Pittsburgh memorial weekend Any suggestions to do to it to get it ready for the trip other than obvious ( head gasket, water pump, granny filters and full tune up)?

 

If you want VTEC do a complete engine swap with a lower mileage engine. As far as VTEC engines go, the DOHC H22 or F20B are very popular VTEC swaps. Other than that, there is also the SOHC F23A out of the 98-02 Accords that is becoming more popular for swaps.

 

What in your opinion would be the best swap? I am looking for a buy and swap no needed other crud to do any suggestions ?

 

Power wise, the easiest swap and best bang for your buck is the H22

 

I am looking to find out what exact motor models I can fit direct into my 96 accord so I know my options.

 

Normally I would let you search but I will give you the basics. You will need the 96 p13 ecu which doesn't have the immobilizer. You will need a 90-93 accord mount along with the bracket. You will need to order a "vtec solenoid, vtec pressure sensor, iab, knock sensor" kit from "axidworks". Google "axidworks" and contact him. Open up the back of the ecu connectors and add the wires to the correct pins. You will need a 97-01 prelude power steering bracket to keep power steering.