My current set-up:

Greddy GSR turbo kit
18g
type 31 intercooler
type s bov
8:1 FMU
310 injectors
Missing Link
Inline

BTW, i'm only running it at 7 psi
past fuel set-ups include/d

Greddy blue box
Filetofit's AFC hack

Symptoms:

When I had the blue box, it ran great for one day, than the next time I drove it (I dropped it off at the body shop for 2 days) it ran like crap, I mean anything over 1/4 of throttle sounded like it was dumping too much fuel into the injectors, kinda like a flub flub flub rapidly. Ok so I thought maybe the blue box is fucked, got rid of that..............................

Bought a Map Circuit from File to Fit, forget about it, wired and soldered everything correctly, could not get the car to idle at all with the damn thing with 450's and resistor box, got it to idle with the 310's but could not tune it down enough to run with it, fug that, took off the circuit and 450's and put back on my 310's and bought a FMU/missing link/pump set-up

With the FMU route, it ran just the same as the blue box but a little better with the 12:1, meaning I could go only about 1/2 throttle before it had the sputtering

when I put the 8:1, I can go about 3/4 throttle in first before it starts to sputter but it still feels **** SLOW, WTF? I've never had this much problems with a turbo set-up before, I have no clue what the hell it oculd be

It feels like something is holding the car back and not letting it go when I give it full throttle..........anyhow, any input would be appreciated

I just bought the SMC, so let's see how this works

Yes, I did use a degree colder plug,
We did replace the distributor
We had an open downpipe to make sure it spooled better
my rear o2 sensors was broken off but we replaced it when we put the 8:1 in and it still doesn't work (we used a o2 sensor off a 92 prelude), we pulled the codes and it doesn't pull anythign up for the o2 sensors so we're assuming it's working


Anyhow, please I'm at my wits end, i'm seriously thinking about selling the damn thing.....



[Modified by xdsmguy, 6:06 AM 11/7/2002]

 

I would try to run the FMU w/out the blue box. 10:1 disc w/ 310cc.

 

i'm not running the fmu with the blue box

first set up was

only the blue box
310 injecotrs

second one was

450 injectors
filetofit's map (afc) circuit

third one (current)

310 injectors
8:1 fmu
inline fuel
missing linik

 

i'm running a b16 w/ drag kit 310cc w/ 10:1 disc. 8:1 was too lean, did'nt feel as powerful. I am also not running an inline pump, just a walboro 255 in-tank, if that matters.

 

Have you checked your compression or anything else mechanical? Your problems don't sound symptomatic of a slight rich/lean condition. Sounds like your bodyshop "broke in" your turbo for you.

 

well did 3 compression tests

all were perfect 210's across the board

hmmmm

I don't think they took it out, i had the milaege recorded

 

i dont know if its a tuning prob, but all the money you spent on trying fuel setups, you could have just bought a hondata, try to sell all that crap and get one...

 

I know the perfect solution.

Get those DSM injectors and strap on the Hondata Stage s200 boost.

or bring to a tuning pro and have them hook up a wideband 02 sensor to it.

Shoot for like 12.5:1 air/fuel ratio.

Put the timing at like 14 degrees.

Jeff

 

flub flub flub huh?

Sounds like misfiring.

 

try the 10:1 disk instead of the 8:1...whats ur timing at? How do the plugs look? are they gapped correctly? what is the gapping now? tried anything different?

Im just trying for anything

 

ttt

 

i don't want you to have to go out and buy more stuff, but i have rc 440's, vortech fmu 12:1 disk, 255lph pump, missing link, and a safc. The car runs perfect. Maybe try that if you find out it's your setup that your using now.

 

That sounds like fouled plugs to me. Buy a new set of plugs 2 ranges colder then stock and gap them at .30 to .35 if your plugs are fouled nothing you do to your motor will help unless the plugs are changed first.

 

Why would you want to go another plug range colder if you had fouled-out plugs? Fouling is caused by the plugs not getting up to their self-cleaning temperature. Since I've been "going easy" on my car, my plugs have been fouling out, and a good full-throttle, 40-100 run cleans them right up. Maybe try your stock plugs, until you know your A/F is good, and then a heat range colder would probably be safe. Good luck!

Nick

 

WTF, just put the SMC in,

and it's the same thing, it feels liek something is holding the car back and not letting it boost, I am ******* confused and way pissed, any other ideas

 

Where do you live? Can you bring it to me? Sorry If I forgot.

I will fix it for you.

Jeff

 

Man, I just bought that circut from filetofit today, getting it in the mail soon . I hope it was a bad circut, because I'm gonna be mad if it doesn't work.

 

Maybe your MAP got messed up. Sounds like it if you wired everything and it runs like that. You will run like SH** if your map isn't hooked up right or bad. I tried it on accident after a motor swap driving 5 miles like that wasn't fun... struggling to get down the road.

 

make sure u dont have any sensors unhooked. im sorry man but it just sounds like something isnt hooked up right. go thru ur engine bay and make sure EVERY harness is hooked up, also like technine said it sounds like a damaged map sensor. are u throwing any codes?

id be willing to bet its not a fuel problem and the body shop u took it to might have accidently messed something up. especially if it ran good when u drove it in and it ran bad when u left.


[Modified by DIRep972, 12:18 AM 11/8/2002]

 

what are you using for exhaust?

 

first off,

Much thanks to all, i'd be a goner without this site

secondly

Well, still have no clue

the only codes that I pull up are the same ones I had prior

which include a distributor code, and a crank angle sensor code, which isn't there on my vehicle, (would that affect it anyways?)

Anyhow, there is one weird code, u2500??

dont' know what the hell that is, no codes began with a U in the manual the shop had

So even if it didn't trip the map sensor code, should we try to replace it anyways? they have an extra one at the shop?

once again, ttt, gotta figure this out, it's pissing me off, and I just got the damn thing painted too

here's a pic, be nice, i like the rice

http://hometown.aol.com/pir8168/bluteg.jpg

 

I remember when I got the crank angle sensor I could rev past 4000 RPMS. If you can test another map sensor, do it and make sure all your wires and vacuum lines are run right and good. Friend also could really idle with turbo, turned out his vac line to map was all dirty and clogged up.

 

It is a plug problem gap them down to .025" to .030" that will fix your problem...

 

as for exhaust, it's just a press bent 2.5 downpipe, than stock piping all the way back BUT we did unhook the downpipe to test it to make sure it wasn't restictive with the same answers

BTW, to go Hondata would beb too much $$$ for me

Blue box came with the kit
Filetofit circuit was only 20 bucks
FMU/Inline Pump/Missing Link was a friends
Only the SMC costs 100 bucks

to go hondata would be 300-500 for hondata
than I need an ECU obd1
than I need a jumper
=
lots of money i don't have

 

dont worry, u dont need to go hondata. ur fuel system is fine, it should drive fine. Ur throwing some wierd codes if u could get to the bottem of that id bet u would find ur problem.