'91 Accord LX R12 A/C Conversion
Awhile back, my cabin fan stopped working. I believe either the fan cage could be obstructed, or more-likely the motor stopped working entirely. I am going to have it taken to an import mechanic here in St. Louis, and since we are preparing for the warmest year in recorded history (lovely global warming) I want my A/C to work. How do I tell if my 91 Accord has already had the conversion, if is it hasn't how much would a typical conversion cost?
You tell if the refrigerant ports are threaded like a bike/car tire (r12) or quick connect (r134a). If a retrofit has been done there should be a label on the radiator support stating it also. Best shop to take it to for Auto A/C is Affton Radiator & A/C Service.
Cheers!
Cheers!
If there's a quick-connect fitting on the service port, than it's been converted. If the service port is still threaded and looks like a big tire valve, then its still R-12. The low pressure port is right above the radiator fan.
Conversion costs will vary depending on how far you go. At minimum, you need to replace the drier, replace disturbed o-rings, install fitting adapters, vacuum down the system, and recharge with refrigerant and oil. If you did it yourself and could beg/borrow/steal the pump and gauge set its about $60 worth of parts.
Some people say that ALL o-rings need to be changed and the system needs to be flushed. My experience has shown this to be unnecessary; maybe it would improve performance, but I've been satisfied without doing these extra steps.
Don't be fooled by those little "conversion kits" they sell at Autozone or Walmart. They usually result in a quick death for your compressor. A combination of residual moisture, lack of a functional dryer, stop leak and special "seal conditioners" and "leak seals" make for a very unhappy system. Also, the gauges they supply only show half of the system so its impossible to verify proper operation (they don't measure high side pressure).
Conversion costs will vary depending on how far you go. At minimum, you need to replace the drier, replace disturbed o-rings, install fitting adapters, vacuum down the system, and recharge with refrigerant and oil. If you did it yourself and could beg/borrow/steal the pump and gauge set its about $60 worth of parts.
Some people say that ALL o-rings need to be changed and the system needs to be flushed. My experience has shown this to be unnecessary; maybe it would improve performance, but I've been satisfied without doing these extra steps.
Don't be fooled by those little "conversion kits" they sell at Autozone or Walmart. They usually result in a quick death for your compressor. A combination of residual moisture, lack of a functional dryer, stop leak and special "seal conditioners" and "leak seals" make for a very unhappy system. Also, the gauges they supply only show half of the system so its impossible to verify proper operation (they don't measure high side pressure).
You tell if the refrigerant ports are threaded like a bike/car tire (r12) or quick connect (r134a). If a retrofit has been done there should be a label on the radiator support stating it also. Best shop to take it to for Auto A/C is Affton Radiator & A/C Service.
Cheers!
Cheers!
If there's a quick-connect fitting on the service port, than it's been converted. If the service port is still threaded and looks like a big tire valve, then its still R-12. The low pressure port is right above the radiator fan.
Conversion costs will vary depending on how far you go. At minimum, you need to replace the drier, replace disturbed o-rings, install fitting adapters, vacuum down the system, and recharge with refrigerant and oil. If you did it yourself and could beg/borrow/steal the pump and gauge set its about $60 worth of parts.
Some people say that ALL o-rings need to be changed and the system needs to be flushed. My experience has shown this to be unnecessary; maybe it would improve performance, but I've been satisfied without doing these extra steps.
Don't be fooled by those little "conversion kits" they sell at Autozone or Walmart. They usually result in a quick death for your compressor. A combination of residual moisture, lack of a functional dryer, stop leak and special "seal conditioners" and "leak seals" make for a very unhappy system. Also, the gauges they supply only show half of the system so its impossible to verify proper operation (they don't measure high side pressure).
Conversion costs will vary depending on how far you go. At minimum, you need to replace the drier, replace disturbed o-rings, install fitting adapters, vacuum down the system, and recharge with refrigerant and oil. If you did it yourself and could beg/borrow/steal the pump and gauge set its about $60 worth of parts.
Some people say that ALL o-rings need to be changed and the system needs to be flushed. My experience has shown this to be unnecessary; maybe it would improve performance, but I've been satisfied without doing these extra steps.
Don't be fooled by those little "conversion kits" they sell at Autozone or Walmart. They usually result in a quick death for your compressor. A combination of residual moisture, lack of a functional dryer, stop leak and special "seal conditioners" and "leak seals" make for a very unhappy system. Also, the gauges they supply only show half of the system so its impossible to verify proper operation (they don't measure high side pressure).
I would highly recommend you replace the drier. The part is literally $6.30 from Amazon with free shipping as an add-on.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
I would highly recommend you replace the drier. The part is literally $6.30 from Amazon with free shipping as an add-on.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
Have not taken dash apart to get to the motor.
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I would highly recommend you replace the drier. The part is literally $6.30 from Amazon with free shipping as an add-on.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
The problem is this: your current drier is probably saturated and unable to remove moisture like its intended to. If you have any moisture at all in your system, it will freeze when it goes through the expansion valve and cause an obstruction.
The drier is on the driver's side behind the headlight. It's not difficult to replace.
You tell if the refrigerant ports are threaded like a bike/car tire (r12) or quick connect (r134a). If a retrofit has been done there should be a label on the radiator support stating it also. Best shop to take it to for Auto A/C is Affton Radiator & A/C Service.
Cheers!
Cheers!
If the system is low there is a leak....just filling it without proper tools and diagnosis is a temp thing and might cause damage.
To know "how" the conversion was done, well there is no way of figuring that out.....unless you find the place/person that did it and even then it might have been so long ago they don't even know.
Properly inspect the system and fix/replace what is needed.
To know "how" the conversion was done, well there is no way of figuring that out.....unless you find the place/person that did it and even then it might have been so long ago they don't even know.
Properly inspect the system and fix/replace what is needed.
If the system is low there is a leak....just filling it without proper tools and diagnosis is a temp thing and might cause damage.
To know "how" the conversion was done, well there is no way of figuring that out.....unless you find the place/person that did it and even then it might have been so long ago they don't even know.
Properly inspect the system and fix/replace what is needed.
To know "how" the conversion was done, well there is no way of figuring that out.....unless you find the place/person that did it and even then it might have been so long ago they don't even know.
Properly inspect the system and fix/replace what is needed.
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TurboTeG4
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Jul 19, 2003 04:01 PM



