So I just did a lsv and turbo...it's been tuned and did 312whp.

After I got it back I changed the oil and put regular oil 5w30 in it.
one thing I noticed is the oil filter was dry when I changed it which I thought was weird....

The motor was built, hot tanked block, honed, wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, golden eagle lsv kit, ferea valves, bc springs/retainers, gsr cams, bwr catch can plus more.

so since my oil change I noticed (this could have happened on the drive home from tuner but I didn't notice) that when shifting and giving gas, some smoke comes out the back. not a lot but a little. no smoke at start up, and no smoke when revving...only when letting off the gas and then giving it gas again.
Also I noticed that once the car is warmed up the oil gauge psi goes low, sometimes fluctuates between 1-5 psi. but when driving it goes up to normal psi's as rpms increase. this is with a prosport evo electric gauge so I know probably not 100% accurate.

So I'm thinking about changing my oil this weekend to something different. I've read a lot of people using rotella t6.

I guess my questions are, has anyone had any of these issues and if so what kind of oil did you run and how did you fix it.
Also looking for suggestions for any of the issues.

 

I don't think an oil change will help with this one

 

1-5 PSI is low. Like, dangerously low. What were your bearing clearances when you built the motor? I would definitely start off by getting a good oil pressure gauge that you can trust, and in the mean time, avoid driving the car unless you want Dead or Alive singing about your bearings.

 

I stay away from electric oil pressure guages for exactly this reason, I still have yet to find one that is actually accurate at hot idle pressure. seems every one I've ever seen reads 0-5psi when it's actually around 18-23psi.

what pressure does it read when cruising on the highway?

and the burning oil you're seeing could be either from a poor turbo oil drain setup, or valve seals. sounds more like valve seals to me. could also possibly be piston ring gaps are a bit too big. what ring gaps did you use? what brand valve seals did you use?

oil viscosity largely depends on the weather in your area. I'm in New England, I use 10w-30 in winter and 10w-40 in summer, and I run bearing clearances about 0.0005" larger than stock spec.

as for your oil filter seeming dry, use a better filter. it sounds like the anti-drainback gasket/valve in the filter is not working at all. I typically stick to higher level Wix filters, or K&N filters

 

Pull the pan immeadiately and check main bearings and rod bearings

 

Wiseco piston rings. Super tech valve seals. Everything is fresh. I think while driving its normal. Like depending on what my rpm is.

 

ok, supertech valve seals are what I recommend.

what were the piston ring GAPS though?
and what does oil pressure read when cruising on the highway? (an actual psi number, not just "normal")

 

Oil pressure while driving is like 70ish

Not sure about gaps though as a shop built the car.