2002 accord burning lots of oil
I have a 2002 honda accord lx with f23 and the 5 speed with 202,000 miles. I burn roughly about a quart of oil every 3 weeks, I know, its very bad. So is this junk piston rings or junk valve seals or both? I'm thinking about changing valve seals to see if anything happens. Whenever I put the pedal to the floor, an oil cloud comes out of the exhaust, as my friends tell me all the time.
Run a dry compression test first, then repeat the test after squirting a little oil into each cylinder, one at a time. If the readings improve with the wet test, you have bad rings. If they stay the same, you have bad valve seals. Hope this helps!
I would try an Oil change,to a thicker oil(10w30 or 10w40) to see if that make's a difference in oil consumption and 1 quart every 3 weeks can be lived with for along time.I know of friends whom own a Saturn 4dr car that requires a quart every second tank full and they have done this for (years). I asked why they kept it and they said even though it burns oil,it will not die
and is still cheap to run
and is still cheap to run
If it's smoke on acceleration, and not on deceleration, then it's only happening when you're spiking oil pressure as well as cylinder pressure. So it's most likely not rings, but valve seals. That compression test will help eliminate worn piston rings, and should be done on a hot engine. Worn valve seals will also manifest in really fouled plugs.
@ User, I doubt its the PCV as these engines still have the breather from the valve cover to the intake pipe, unless the F23 is that much different from the F22/H22. The crank case vapors still have someplace to go so there's no pressure to force oil through other seals, at least that's how I understand it.
@ User, I doubt its the PCV as these engines still have the breather from the valve cover to the intake pipe, unless the F23 is that much different from the F22/H22. The crank case vapors still have someplace to go so there's no pressure to force oil through other seals, at least that's how I understand it.
Use castrol gtx HM 10W 40 Oil in summer and 10W 30 in cold climates, You will notice up to 50% less consumption. This oil has less burn off but it wont resolve the burning issue completely.
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I know this thread is old, but I want to let you know the bad news about your f23 accord burning oil. 90% likely your oil control rings on your pistons are clogged/stuck.
I had issue with my 2002 accord burning oil I checked everything.
cyclinder 2 oil control ring is stuck causing oil to accumulate on the wall and burn.
This is bad. It will lead to case hardening of your exhaust valve and eventual valve failure. Like what happend to me
you can identify this quite easily. Pull your plugs and look for the one with burnt black oil.
your car will still have good compression and leak down will be good.
Issues that can also arise. Egr clogging intake manifold gerting oil alm over everything. Carbon build up and so on.
I tried Marvel mystery oil atf wd40 fuel system cleaner pb blaster just about everything. Still stuck ring. Only option is to rebuild your engine. Hate to be the bearer of bad news. Or just drive it and add oil.
I had issue with my 2002 accord burning oil I checked everything.
cyclinder 2 oil control ring is stuck causing oil to accumulate on the wall and burn.
This is bad. It will lead to case hardening of your exhaust valve and eventual valve failure. Like what happend to me
you can identify this quite easily. Pull your plugs and look for the one with burnt black oil.
your car will still have good compression and leak down will be good.
Issues that can also arise. Egr clogging intake manifold gerting oil alm over everything. Carbon build up and so on.
I tried Marvel mystery oil atf wd40 fuel system cleaner pb blaster just about everything. Still stuck ring. Only option is to rebuild your engine. Hate to be the bearer of bad news. Or just drive it and add oil.
I'm sure that after 4 years since that post, they probably fixed it by now or it' in the junkyard 
But I agree with your overall statement. Personally, it seems cheaper to just swap in another engine rather than rebuild these motors, I got a replacement for $600 with 55,000 miles on it. few tools needed, was able to swap it in over a weeks time and then keep trucking.

But I agree with your overall statement. Personally, it seems cheaper to just swap in another engine rather than rebuild these motors, I got a replacement for $600 with 55,000 miles on it. few tools needed, was able to swap it in over a weeks time and then keep trucking.
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