Turbo ls help/opinions
First im going to say that i have read other threads i have a good idea of this. But i cant find the details SO maybe you guys can help me with your opinions on what to do!
I have a 94 acura integra ls.
It has 154k all original bone stock car. Bought at an estate auction due to an older gentleman passing away. I bought it at 138k thing is super clean no rust nothing. Ive kept up on oilchanges etc.
NOW i have everything to turbo my car ive pieced a decent kit together no ebay junk except BOV and the intercooler kit. I want your guys opinion on what to do can i turbo my stock motor and it still be a reliable dd? Ive read and everywhere says 300whp is where it gets iffy on a bone stock ls. What would you guys replace/make sure is working properly. I need it to be reliable as it is my dd. A buddy has a turbo b20 bone stock that makes 300whp and he beats the hell out of it.. I just dont want dumb luck to get me.. I also have a spare ls block thats bare except crank aswell as a b16 head with type r cams. Im on a 1,100$ budget i want to be boosted for summer. My other option was to css the spare block buy pistons and rods. But im on that budget as of now. I know if i go that route ill need better suspension wheels tires traction bars catch can setup the whole 9 yards. I want to know what you guys would do in my situation Thank you for any input sorry for rambling
I have a 94 acura integra ls.
It has 154k all original bone stock car. Bought at an estate auction due to an older gentleman passing away. I bought it at 138k thing is super clean no rust nothing. Ive kept up on oilchanges etc.
NOW i have everything to turbo my car ive pieced a decent kit together no ebay junk except BOV and the intercooler kit. I want your guys opinion on what to do can i turbo my stock motor and it still be a reliable dd? Ive read and everywhere says 300whp is where it gets iffy on a bone stock ls. What would you guys replace/make sure is working properly. I need it to be reliable as it is my dd. A buddy has a turbo b20 bone stock that makes 300whp and he beats the hell out of it.. I just dont want dumb luck to get me.. I also have a spare ls block thats bare except crank aswell as a b16 head with type r cams. Im on a 1,100$ budget i want to be boosted for summer. My other option was to css the spare block buy pistons and rods. But im on that budget as of now. I know if i go that route ill need better suspension wheels tires traction bars catch can setup the whole 9 yards. I want to know what you guys would do in my situation Thank you for any input sorry for rambling
On your budget, boost what you have, get a BOV that isn't eBay ****, get it professionally tuned, and spend the rest of your money on a GSR transmission. Yes, you can safely make 300 on a healthy stock motor, as long as the tune is reasonably good.
Thanks for your input. I think thats what im going to do i also thought about saving up for a spare ls longblock seeing as this car is my dd.. Also let me ask why the gsr trans? Thanks
Since its a full LS, you'll be fine even with the LS transmission with the characteristics of that engine. Make sure the turbocharger is about 50lbs/min or so, (don't get anything too large), make sure that all compression/leakdown checks work, get rid of the eBay BOV, and get a real intercooler kit (yes, even for 300whp.. hot intake temperatures are hot intake temperatures)
For this case a GS-R transmission is no necessary in this particular case.
Above all. Have the car tuned PROPERLY..
For this case a GS-R transmission is no necessary in this particular case.
Above all. Have the car tuned PROPERLY..
Boost what you have. You will need arp head studs (you can install these by removing one head bolt at a time and installing a stud, then moving onto the next, others will say take the head off). I put down 293whp 256tq on 14 psi with a 50-55lb/min turbo. This was a bone stock b18b1 long block minus the arp head studs. Unknown miles. No reason to tare your motor down and rod n piston it.
ebay BOV's work fine. the 50mm's. I know a half dozen guys using em without issue, even on high power builds. just don't buy a cheap manifold, turbo, or wastegate.
Boost what you have. You will need arp head studs (you can install these by removing one head bolt at a time and installing a stud, then moving onto the next, others will say take the head off). I put down 293whp 256tq on 14 psi with a 50-55lb/min turbo. This was a bone stock b18b1 long block minus the arp head studs. Unknown miles. No reason to tare your motor down and rod n piston it.
Boost what you have. You will need arp head studs (you can install these by removing one head bolt at a time and installing a stud, then moving onto the next, others will say take the head off). I put down 293whp 256tq on 14 psi with a 50-55lb/min turbo. This was a bone stock b18b1 long block minus the arp head studs. Unknown miles. No reason to tare your motor down and rod n piston it.
Since its a full LS, you'll be fine even with the LS transmission with the characteristics of that engine. Make sure the turbocharger is about 50lbs/min or so, (don't get anything too large), make sure that all compression/leakdown checks work, get rid of the eBay BOV, and get a real intercooler kit (yes, even for 300whp.. hot intake temperatures are hot intake temperatures)
For this case a GS-R transmission is no necessary in this particular case.
Above all. Have the car tuned PROPERLY..
For this case a GS-R transmission is no necessary in this particular case.
Above all. Have the car tuned PROPERLY..
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Thanks for the reply the turbo is a precision 5858 what bov/kit would you recommend. Also do i need a map sensor for anything more then say 10ibs. And yes the car will be tuned by hub city performance. A local shop here they have a 9 second ef on youtube take a glance if your bored. Tuned alot of cars all have held up.
Thanks for the reply the turbo is a precision 5858 what bov/kit would you recommend. Also do i need a map sensor for anything more then say 10ibs. And yes the car will be tuned by hub city performance. A local shop here they have a 9 second ef on youtube take a glance if your bored. Tuned alot of cars all have held up.
As for your turbocharger choice, for an LS, that's pretty large for a turbocharger to make 300whp. You'll definitely need another MAP sensor to calibrate with your software. Shrinking down a size or so would have been the wiser choice. The LS isn't like its VTEC cousin that has better efficiency that can utilize a larger turbocharger to do what you're asking. I'm sure the 5858 can make the peak power you need, but it will be rather laggy.
For 10 PSI, you do not need more than the stock MAP sensor. Whether or not 10 PSI will get you to your power goals, however...If you want a cheap BOV, find a 1G DSM unit and go with it. They aren't pretty, but they're OEM reliable. There's another company that makes a good BOV and WG (that Shodan had actually turned me onto a while back, IIRC), but I can't for the life of me remember their name.
Only the crushed DSMs worked. The rest were garbage, and if you find a good one nowadays, consider yourself lucky.
Trust me, he'll need more than 10psi to do this. GET ANOTHER MAP SENSOR.
Trust me, he'll need more than 10psi to do this. GET ANOTHER MAP SENSOR.
why not with a turbo that big use the b16 head he has with the type r cams and make 350whp easy? buy vtec head studs just because and get a new hg on there. wouldnt the head change also help spool the turbo ?
Yes. I'm sure he could, but at that point he might as well take it apart and properly rebuild with the entire ls/vtec conversion with fresh rods and pistons
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killablaze
Acura Integra
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Oct 7, 2005 04:06 PM




