So I'm getting my oil feed adapters etc together on the block. I bought a 1/8 bspt male adapter that is made of brass. I think you all know where this is going. Long story short, the female part of the adapter broke. I bought an Irwin extractor set, and one of the bits broke inside of the stuck adapter! So in my head, I'm thinking a few options.

1. Seal the middle part where the extractor broke with JB Weld and let it run like that. Or..

2. Punch out the broken bit
a. use a bigger extractor and try again
c. fish for the broken bit inside of the block, the passage for this port looks to lead to the oil filter. Not sure how to get that broken bit out.
d. The engine is now in the car but I can drop the oil pan relatively easy still to fetch the broken bit if necessary.

3. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

Pics would help

 

well, if any pieces fall into the motor, you're partially screwed to be honest. that port leads to the main oil port that feeds the crank, and the oil filter. it wont drop into the pan, it'll drop into the port to the crank. to remove it you'll need to remove the pan, the girdle and crank caps, the oil filter and the oil cooler, then blast the oil port in the bottom of the block with compressed air. BUT, that may also send bits up into the head too...

JB weld will never hold in this situation. only a proper adapter or plug will suffice. sorry

yes I know, I have not given any advice on how to actually get the broken pieces out. I honestly dont know.

 

i think here are some real options,

1. Weld it shut. I would only have to put a drop in the center where the extractor broke since the threads are sealing it.

2. Attempt to weld on the hex head that broke off and use that to back it out.

I think i will try option 2, if fails, move to option 1. Thoughts?

 

I would try option 2 first as well. Then use option 1 as a last resort.

 

We use extractors at work often, not sure how you broke one on brass. You either went sideways and snagged the tip or went too far and it caught(possibly wrong size used).
You can try and weld. IF theres enough metal sticking out the weld might penetrate and hold, possibly melt warp edges to were they will be easier to remove with a pin punch or small chisel
A chisel might work(no Pics?) if you have enough space to either turn backwards or finish braking off. once welded the metal will be harder to work with if blobbed on
A cutting torch wold make short work of that extractor with just a quick touch of the oxy. but will also force metal into passage. Don't try with engine in car!
If you end up getting metal inside you might want to consider removing the pump and blowing air backwards. Good luck. Pictures would be nice.
Ive had a cheap brass fitting crack while in use and will never use brass again! Thats what sandwich plates are for but if you're that cheap at least use stainless steel(clean threads on both with alcohol. let dry and apply small amount of RTV sealant. Tighten. wait aprox. 5 min and do final torque. shouldn't be over full turn.) I have never had SS leak or break but I have been running sandwich plates when I can. This is what has worked for me.

 

You need to provided pics for everyone to get a better idea of whats going on.

 

Was away for the weekend. Here are pics

 

you are gonna need to take the oil filter and the oil cooler off so you have more room to get in there. Thats not gonna be easy with the piece being brass.

 

Yeah. I plan on removing the engine to get this thing extracted. Im not sure how having more space is going to help me since i dont kow how to weld. Luckily, most of the front of this car is removed so dropping the engine shouldnt be too much hassle. Sigh....

 

was refering to more room if you kept the motor in the car.

 

Is it one of these?
you will not be able to drill the extractor and even name brand bits will have trouble. How much of it broke off? That fitting looks meaty. Possibly pulling out engine cutting almost half an inch of aluminum just enough to have some pliers (channel lock or knipex no cheaps) bite down on the fitting that would do it(careful not to get into oil feed or remove too much of the brass fitting. The other option would be using a small bit to drill about 3-4 small holes on the brass enough to weaken it so you can punch it through and then trying again(possibly having to go1/4npt).Make sure you do NOT brake a bit in there or let the bit bite the extractor as the small bit will snap and they're also Impossible to drill. Or........ You can just take it to a shop.

 

what you can try to do is make a small cut on the broken fitting with a dremel or cut off wheel, then take a impact driver with a flat head on it put it in the cut you just made and give it a good whack, heat would probably help too

 

this is why I have a steel 1/8 to -4an installed in this port, connected is a 10" braided line to a 4 way brass fitting. Oil pressure sensor in cab, oil pressure sensor in bay, and turbo oil feed.

everyone knows brass is no bueno in the block..

 

So this is where im at now


Had room to get a dremel in there but couldnt cut deep enough to get a flat head to grip on. I think its time for the help of a doctor....

 

From the looks of those pics you would have to cut a little into the threads to make sure there's a good slot for the impact driver/screw driver. Good luck

 

A little teflon tape and snug is all you need lol dont have to run it till it breaks off to seal....

 

Some of us just learn the hard way...lol

 

So guys, i ended up have to take apart the block Nd head to remive the engine. It all out of the car now. Keep in mind the car NEVER started or ran. Torqued down with ARP Studs and bolts. It has/had a brand new OEM head gasket. Anyone thinks its reuseable?

 

Nope. Its already been crushed.

 

Sigh....thank you.

 

Use a Center punch, knock a starter hole in the broken fitting, start with the smallest drill bit Using a drill with torque and a brake. increase the bit size until you get out the broken extractor, hammer a torx bit in the hole and extract it.

 

So i talked to my local machine shop, referred to Jims bolt extraction, who manufactures rods for all kinds of race cars. Jim tells me he can do it with EDM machine but i would have to rip ot apart and rebuild after. Not something i wanted to do.

So, i took it to a welder which he recommends and hes going to weld it shut...

 

Good luck.... i mean if you are going to weld it shut might as well give it your best try and not worry about messing anything up..... whats the worst that could happen ......

 

Blah not what the solution i had hoped for but if this is my best bet for a leak free fix then i guess i shouldnt complain....live and learn. So these bspt and npt threads should only be snug? Ive always wondered about that because it seems like those things will thread and turn forever...