Ok guys and possibly girls, here's the deal. I bought a 93 civic hatch with the D15B8. Had to replace a head gasket and have the head check and cleaned. Got all complete and put back together. After a few he'd aches with parts I changed I was finally ready to crank the car. Headaches being that the guy who owned the car before me striped the wrench flats on the number 4 cylinder spark plug I was able to extract the plug with a turbo socket. Anyways I have changed the main relay. Checked every fuse in the car and under the hood with a volt meter. All are reading fine. Even checked the two grounds on the car both are good clean and no burn marks. The first day I tried to start the fuel injector o-rings were bad. I know this from the abundance of fuel that I sprayed everywhere. Lol. So I got kits for each injector and replace. The next day when I tried to start the fuel pump wouldn't kick on. I can feel the relay kick on but no fuel pump. Also I have already checked voltage to my map sensor. It reads as should 12V source wire. 5V reference and 0 to the ground. All injectors also read between 11.87V to 12V. All these were checked with key in on position. Or run position to be exact. I don't believe it is the ECM because of the correct voltage on the MAP sensor. Also after using the Jump wire to do a code or fault check I get no faults. CEL stays on as should in the run position. If anyone has any ideas it would be very helpful. I'm sure it's something stupid. But I'm pulling my hair out here. I just wanna get my new beater running as is for awhile til I can afford the LS vtech swap that I want.

 

Also before someone replies the obvious I have already ran a 12V jump wire direct to the fuel pump and when doing so it runs fine. Even when doing this and trying to start the injectors still won't fire. So I have a communication breach somewhere in the system. Also the car will run beautifully with starter fluid sprayed in the throttle body. So I know the distributor is working correctly and that the timing is correct.

 

Do the pin 1-7 and pin 5-7 jump tests on the main relay connector to see if the fuel pump runs.

 

That's very helpful. I will give it a shot. I knew there was a way to jump it just couldn't remember which pins to use.

 

If I do this test and it doesn't work what's the next course of action.

 

One step at a time. Post the two jump test results when you get them.

 

Do I need to jump all three pens at the same time or just the first two first and then jump the second two

 

This^

 

Ok. When I jump 1 and 7 it kicks on. When I jump 5 and 7 it doesn't kick on.

 

The key must be in ON(II) for the 5-7 test.

 

Ok. With the key on II it works.

 

Plug the main relay back in. Turn key to ON(II). Does fuel pump now prime?

 

No it does not. Do u need to reset ecm maybe?

Do I not you.. sorry my thumbs are getting lazy

 

Does the CEL remain on steady when key is turned to ON(II)?

 

Yes it does. And now it's running. Crazy cause all I did was pull negative and positve. Clean the car out for 20 min. Then plugged in the old main relay. After that I put the terminals back on. Try to start it and it fired right up. I don't understand one bit y the new relay wouldn't work.

 

I've got almost the same problem I'd say, my fuel pump only start when the car is not under sunlight...would that be a bad relay or?

 

I've changed pump, filter, if I start the car it won't start for a second time.

 

Unless you can contribute to this thread with some knowledge, please create your own thread if you have an issue you would like resolved.

 

I've been following thia post but people new questions have me lost. If we could please back up a second....

No spark no fuel, good ecu, dizzy, and main relay.
Jumped pins 1 to 5.... nothing happened,
Jumped 5 to 7.... nothing happened,
Jumped 1 to 7.... fuel pump primes.

Fuse 24 and 13 are good. Where should I test next?

 

Voltage test fuse 24.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...fuses-3079359/