So before I get into a little detail I am considering swapping out my new Pauter X-Beam w/ ARP 220,000 rod bolts for a set of aluminum rods on my s2000. I recently read an article in dragzine about how a lot of common thoughts on aluminum rods were false and they don't actually stretch long term, also how since the rods act as a shock absorber the bolts don't stretch like they do in a steel rod.

The car is going to be a dedicated weekend cruise and drag car so it will see the occasional sunday cruise along with beating it down at the track. My question here isn't necessarily aluminum vs steel but what is the best high hp reliable aluminum rod on the market. GRP (800 or 1200hp version), R&R, or Bill Miller BME. Sure there are some others as well but whatever you recommend. For a little background the motor is over 11.0:1 compression HD Arias w/button retainers, stock 84mm stroke by 87mm bore, Darton MID sleeves, O-Ring/Step Deck, 4piston CNC head, VTEC killer cams, S2 Pro Cam Gears, Custom manifolds, PTE Gen 2. 6870 T4, and so on. Car should be in the 800hp level on ethanol in street trim and well over 1000 on VP M1 methanol.

What rod would you suggest and why?

 

That's a hell of a street car!

I've had really good luck with GRP. They are very consistent from rod to rod, which to me is important. I use the Pro GRP (higher HP version). I know BME had some issues early on with improper lengths, partially the party that had them made, but that has been resolved from what I've been told.

 

That's my goal atleast, beat up on some domestic owners and streetbikes haha. Should make 8xx at low 20psi range. Plus not like I can race the car in OGS (nor would I want to)... so I will just do IFO FIP events if all goes according to plan. Ok cool, I wasn't sure what the higher level GRP`s were called until now. Thank ya sir

 

I would personally consider only GRP, R&R, BME

There are some others but for some reason they think their products are gold and platinum since they cut fancy designs in to them.

 

Ok fair enough. Well with that being said what is the hp limit of the 3 brands? Car should be in the 10xxwhp range on boost and 1200-1300 with a turbo swap or nitrous. Would like something that is not rated at what I could be making is all my thought process is.

 

Any one of those brands provided you tell your dealer or the manufacturer your power level.

 

I'm using GRPs in my all motor k24 as these are what 4piston runs in their motors and they've been a huge help to me during this build. But I'm only shooting for 400hp. I hope to get a season or two out of them.

 

I prefer bme, most will say grp and grp is less than an hour from us. I use bme because in b blocks it takes less cutting on the sleeves for clearance and your open to use any piston you want. Some piston brands are not wide enough in the wrist pin area for grp rods... as far as hondas are concerned i feel like grps are over kill size wise...

 

I've had great luck with GRP in my old B series and F20 as well. All the guys I race with run them too at 2500hp+

 

Yea I really hope my arias HD`s are wide enough in the wrist pin area to fit a standard GRP f20c shelf rod. It would be nice if I can just order a shelf set since it is a stock displacement and stroke motor.

Does anyone have photos of how much notching is necessary on the bottom of the sleeve. I have seen the notches machine shops made for a few K series 90x99mm blocks running GRP`s, and to be honest its nothing special so I will just do it myself. They just burr the bottom of the sleeve until it clears. What about additional clearance for expansion? How much expansion should be taken into consideration when notching the bottom of the sleeve for big end rod clearance?

 

I'll take the extra strength of the GRP, and I notch your blocks the same every time, regardless of what rod you want.

All good piston manufacturers will make sure the rod of your choice will fit, just ask them! You should go visit GRP and get their thoughts on overkill, as you are trying to make an EF faster than the rest of the Honda world, right?

 

GRP doesn't offer any "shelf" rod for an import engine. Every rod is built to order. The engine builder determines the beam, the width of the small end and big end, the center to center, the pin size, and the rod bolt size. If you have a rod that doesn't fit your piston, the engine builder ordered it wrong, or ordered it to go with a different piston.

We use GRP in everything. The solid beam turbo rod is flat out stronger than some other offerings out there. They can last multiple seasons at 1200+hp if the tuneup is good and the car is driven sensibly. A steel rod won't take the same abuse.

As far as whether you should put them in your car.....I've put them in weekend warrior EVOs and put a lot of miles on them. If the engine has sufficient clearance and is warmed up before driving the car....it can work in a street car. If you like to jump in your car and fire it up and run down the street when its 25 degrees out, you need to stick with a steel rod. If its really going to make 1300hp, you need aluminum. If its really gonna make 1000....maybe consider staying with Pauter.

Just my $.02

 

GRP for me..

 

BME

 

I had GRP not fit into my piston, so we machined the rod down narrower. After that, whenever i got more, i just requested the correct width and they made a new serial number, cut them and sent them.

 

This article won't tell you the best rod to use but it is still relevant to the discussion.

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/engine/debunking-aluminum-rod-myths-with-grp/

 

Like i said i use bme because they are readily available and work with my current stuff. we have been in contact with grp during the dog days of summer and they are usually making big runs of high level class stuff and seem to busy for us. Im not arguing that the solid grp design is probably stronger but for me bme is easier to use...

 

All good points but waiting for pistons all the time blows dudes but so do efs so what do i know lol

 

If you call up and say I want ao turbo GSR rod....GRP is going to say huh? They are setup to supply rods to engine builders that send them a build sheet.

Dang you are in their backyard

 

Yea originally one of the guys that work for us had the solid beam design made a long time ago... I totally get it they are a great rod, my luck one of these other rods will probably break and send a **** storm up into one of those super fly heads you guys are cooking up for me.

 

This.

 

BME makes a good rod. You will be fine