Just purchased a complete ls/b20 kit, minus the original "FMU". However I have a begi RRFPR anyway that I plan to use. The car is a 2000 auto, awd crv. Goal is daily driver, some mild offroad trails. No "racing" just wanted more in the 2500-4500rpm range, without doing the normal bolt ons that would cost me close to the same I'm sure. So I planned to stay at 6psi, simple fuel pressure regulator tune as well as stay carb/smog legal anyway.
Now what I'd like to know is, how much power am I leaving on the table by hooking up the system to my factory air box with a DIY "ice max/icebox" setup. Basically 3" tubing to front bumper with velocity stack, sealed stock box otherwise vs a short ram & filter.

Next would be exhaust. Oem header, cat, pipes and muffler currently. Headers all need to be modified anyway, so I planned to stay stock. However I thought of using 2.25" piping and replacing the collector could be beneficial or. Just leave. It be? Same with the cat, worth it to go to a 2.25" or 2.5" highflow?
The piping I planned to leave stock 2" I'm assuming & use a s2000 twin look with a 38mm UK mod to help flow & sound some. Overall on the exhaust I want oem silent as much as possible, same with looks. I understand I'd be leaving some power on the table by using these options, however how much honestly?

 

I'd consider it on my 2000 CRV EX - 5 speed.. Honda B-series torque converters aren't the most resilient. I can't speak for the CRV auto and torque converter, but wouldn't you want a manual if you're going to do all that work anyways? If not, at least make sure the torque converter can handle the added power, albeit low (in terms of available gains from FI).

 

Would it be uncouth of us to start taking bets on how long OP's setup will last?

I give it 6 months.

 

C'mon now. The guys is trying to build a sweet CRV. Let's keep the hope alive! Now that OneBadTurboCRV is throwing in the towel- someone needs a fast CRV! Just not.. Automatic.

I've considered going turbo on my '00 CRV, but it's stock and a great daily now. I don't want (and can't really afford) to have two money pits, and I'd like to keep the stock simplicity. It really is a dog though. Way too heavy for 140s horse.

Back to the actual car, I'd have no idea for the air intake. The factory intake on a CRV and runners/stock 4-2-1 exhaust promote good torque low end, but once you start boost.. I'd imagine that all changes. For the exhaust, I personally would go for 2.5"+, a good resonator and quiet flow muffler. 2.25" might be too restricting, and why change your exhaust twice?

 

Problem #1: Autotragic.
Problem #2: No real tune.
Problem #3: "stay carb/smog legal".

Call it pessimistic realism, but if OP actually relies on his car to get him around, then shouldn't we be giving him the realistic truth? Can OP afford, either in time, money, or skill, to find and swap a motor or transmission in a weekend when something breaks on him?

 

I'm still wondering when the hell your supercharger is going to whining.. haven't heard updates in weeks

 

I have accepted the fact that the weather doesn't want me supercharged. After the snow cleared, it has rained literally ONLY on my days off work.

 

You should look up this weeks weather for Mission Viejo CA - scratch that, the past couple months weather

 

@wantboost can I post a bag of dicks for Geis to eat?

 

lol.

i think the first gen crv would benefit from a blower. ive thought bout it aswell. they ****** suck down low

 

Speaking of wantboost, where's he been? Exclaimed he got internet a couple weeks ago, haven't really seen him since.

 

Trans is anemic yes. It does have a 24000gvw cooler though. And this isnt nessasarily a power build. Im not looking for a built fast crv. Just more power daily type setup. Climbing the cajon pass and **** daily sucks ball unless your nearly WOT.
6psi stock setups run about 160-170whp through a 5 speed ive seen. That would be PLENTY for me. Which is why these questions were raised. Is it even worth the time for those extra upgrades over just a simple tune and 6psi which has proven to be extremely reliable....as far as tune comment goes. Sure its not the best but it works reliably with my goal and is exactly how Jackson racing released the kit. I just have a better fuel pressure regulator to adjust it a bit better.

Your typical intake, exhaust, header and tune would run close to what i payed, right at 1000 shipped. 1058$ shipped actually. And youd see gains in the upper 3500+rpm range. The supercharger will supply the power through the entire range. Anyway the price and overall gains is why it was bought. Not to be a race car, just more daily driving power.

 

And as i understand it this is a carb/50 legal setup. That what that comment refers to.

 

Sounds like a fun project. The Auto trans might work... I'd invest in a better transmission cooler and/or run some heavier duty trans fluid. It'll last for a while and when it goes, upgrade to a 5spd.

Its unfortunate that tuning is such a bitch due to California's car **** laws. Since is a SC, not a turbo, using that Rising Rate FPR should be ok. Do you have a wideband or how do you plan to adjust it?

 

The 24k gvw should be enough, I mean that's rated for a 3/4 ton truck lol. Running valvoline synthetic fluid currently, however it could upgrade and run Redline or some top of the line Fluid honestly, would probably help out some. As well as toss on an inline filter.
From what I gather, the frp & 6 psi & 1 step colder plugs would be enough to run reliably and be more than enough power. It's not that bad now, but carrying camping gear & family and any hills & it becomes a complete dog.
I'm not chasing dyno numbers or anything. Won't ever see a track and is 80% part throttle driving anyway. It just needs more power in a useable range lol. And for 1000 bucks I figured this would be the best option.

Anyway tuning will probably be given to a shop. I plan to run it either catless (test pipe) or weld up a highflow at a minimum so I can weld in an extra 02 sensor bung, pre-cat for a wideband to be hooked up.

 

You do realize a test pipe will be an instant fail for smog/bar/carb, right?

 

The Bell Engineering adjustable FMU... particularly the 2025i, was an excellent upgrade to the static 5:1 rise-rate JRSC FMU. The benefits were primarily in the adjustable bleeder screw which allowed the rise rate to be dropped down into the 3:1 to 4:1 range. The down side to this type of tuning solution alone is that the factory distributor has to be retarded so far that the engine really responds a bit on the sluggish side... especially between idle and 2500 RPM. A later fix for this particular issue was developed by Oscar to allow one to run more initial distributor timing without the detonation problems at throttle tip-in and under boost... called the BTC. If you need one of those, contact Motorvations Motorsports at (205) 661-3600... I think I saw one on their parts shelf the last time I was over there.

 

Guess i should of noted i wanted to keep it bolt in option either way. Replace factplory cat with newer highflow, probably not carb legal but im sure theyll see a cat and be happy.
Or test pipe which is easily swapped in and out within a few minutes.

 

Thanks for the info. Btc stand for boost timing controler?

Also the kit has a 3.4" pulley. What psi would i be looking at? And what psi would i be looking at woth a 4.0" pulley?
Trying to see if i can get the kit to run 4-5psi. That will produce more than enough power and be a little easier on the trans.

Nevermind finally found a good link to boost/pulleys. However its for a m62 -__-
http://ftlracing.com/jrsc_pulley.htm

 

If the experience of a shitload of posts failing inspections in CA is any indicator, they won't just see a cat and be happy. They have to check for the CARB number on it. No CARB number, no happy ref, no passing car.

The only aftermarket pulleys you're going to find are going to be for upping the boost, not dropping it. You might be able to get something custom fabricated, but...well, that would cost a lot.

 

I dont want this to sound rude. Thanks for your time an opinion but they offer a 4.2" down to the 3.4". Honestly it sounds as if your pointing info in the dark.
From what im understanding a b16 or gsr crank pulley and a 4.0 pulley gets me 4.8psi. And a ls crank pulley and 4.0 pulley gets some about 5psi.

 

The 3.2" blower pulley is the stock size for a standard B18A/B supercharger kit. With a LS crank pulley, it will make 6-7psi of boost. The B20 crank pulley will add 2-3 psi more boost. I have never seen a 3.4" or 3.6" pulley specifically designed for the JRSC "B" series applications... certainly not by JR/Moss anyway.

Conversely, the 3.8" blower pulley will drop the boost by 4 psi... the 4.0" blower pulley will drop 6 psi and the 4.2" blower pulley will drop 8 psi compared to the stock 3.2" blower pulley. This will give you some combinations to play with. New pulleys are no longer available from JRSC/Moss Distributing, but if you want to get some, Motorvations Motorsports purchased all of the remaining pulley inventory from JRSC... and they created their own version of the 3.8" pulley since those originals have officially dried up.

Pay close attention to the proximity of the blower snout pulley and the brake master cylinder... increasing the pulley diameter may create some interference between the blower pulley and the bottom of the master cylinder.

 

I do believe i read the 4" may rub on the crv. Ill have to play with that.
However the seller first said 3.4". He corrected that today and said 3.25" diameter pulley. But also stated the pulley said 4.0 on it.
He was supposed to ship it today however i had him hold off because if i cant get the correct pulley setup itll be useless to me.

He is grabbing pictures of the pulley tomorrow. But somethng doesnt sound right... does a 4.0 pulley = 4"
I ask because i havent seen a 3.25" pulley offered yet he did indeed measure at 3.25" with a picture for proof. Sounds to me as if the pulleys were just numbered that way and its not their actual diameter?

 

I corrected my above post...

Essentially, you can use the above values in a self-created math equation to arrive at a rough target boost.

Stock kit = LS crank pulley + 3.2" blower pulley = 6-7 psi.

6-7psi + 3.8" pulley (-4psi) + CRV crank pulley (+3psi) = 5-6psi.

 

Its been done before and the original owner kept the boost moderate for daily. He even rebuild the engine too. Yes autotragic.