I'm working on a 2001 Accord. Just finished changing the timing belt, which had slipped. Ran a compression check, 160-170 psi on all 4 cylinders. Car won't start now. I put the key in, turn to "run" and the green key icon comes on for 2 seconds or so. Engine cranks, but there's no spark. I checked each plug, with the plug removed and grounded. Turn the key off, and that little green key icon blinks a few times. Is that normal?

Does anyone know how to check if I'm getting voltage to the distributor? I checked for voltage on the 4-pin connector, with one test lead on the negative terminal of the battery & I didn't detect voltage on any of the 4 pins. Immobilizer problems?

Any help would be greatly appreciated... Kinda lost here...

Thanks!
-Mark

 

Should also mention that I cranked the car with the plug wires disconnected, to check for compression. Possibly blew the ignition coil? How do I test?

 

Little more information... I DO have 12 volts on the distributor with the key on (but not with the key off). Secondary coil ohms were below spec (9K vs 12.8 - 19.2 kOhm per the manual) but I can't measure primary coil ohms - shows zero on my cheap voltmeter (supposed to be 0.63 - 0.77 Ohm).

 

Fixed it
New distributor did the trick

 

Friend (ls1m) I have a question.
I have the same problem as you with the ignition coil.
When you passed the ignition key to position 2:
The check engine signal (light) was lit on the board?
Signal sent to the fuel pump?
The main relay sounded 2 times?
I have damaged coil ignition or so it seems, but apart from that without having the coil connected to the wiring:
No sounds gasoline pump.
No checking engine light goes out.
The main relay, makes a single pass.

Thanks for your help.

 

I had the fuel pump relay go out last year. I had someone turn the key to Run and I had my head under the gas tank. It was intermittent - sometimes the pump would come on, sometimes not. A new fuel pump relay fixed the problem. I think it was in the fuse box under the dash.

If you get the fuel pump running and it still doesn't start, you can check for spark with one of the plugs out & grounded so you can see the spark gap while someone cranks. Be sure the plug is well grounded, perhaps with a jumper cable. I think cranking the engine with the plugs out is what helped my distributor to die because I didn't unplug the distributor first.

hth
-Mark

 

Check out Scotty Kilmer's YouTube video "Fixing a car that cranks but won't start"