00 civic auto transmission - problem after rebuild
hi there,
Just rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears.
the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.
Any help? thanks
Just rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears.
the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.
Any help? thanks
I think so. at least the fluid does not come out. I do not know if I can push further. Actually I hold the whole wheel hub to push in. I can feel the intial resistance due to set ring. maybe I can upload a pic tomorrow. any idea?
Last edited by shiguiy; Jan 26, 2016 at 09:49 PM.
Actually I followed the service manual and all the specs are ok. at least the car should move, maybe not perfectly. something big I missed?
I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.
also how come I can even push the car under neutral with park brake down?
thx
I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.
also how come I can even push the car under neutral with park brake down?
thx
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thanks tony.
after I put the end cover on trans, I install all cooler line, sensor, solenoid and external filter and cooler line. last will be torque converter. makes sure I hear click twice when I push TQ in.
then raise trans to the same level as engine and attach all wire and bolts. along with bots to connect with flywheel. then exhaust pipe and shift cable. I check the shift fork movement with each shift gear. then will be drive shaft from each side. make sure I feel the resistance from set ring and it is all the way to the end. there is no fluid leakage and I can rotate the wheel and feel the resistance from differential.
BTW, when I rotate the wheel on one side to forward when I jack up the front, the other side goes the other way (backward). is that normal?
first fill 3 qt fluid and start the car. shift to all gears 3 times. then add another 2 qts after stopping the engine and check the dipstick. restart the car again and shift all gears. then stops and refill until the fluid level is good.
that is it. I just follow the instructions from manual and no engine light on and no noise.
thx
after I put the end cover on trans, I install all cooler line, sensor, solenoid and external filter and cooler line. last will be torque converter. makes sure I hear click twice when I push TQ in.
then raise trans to the same level as engine and attach all wire and bolts. along with bots to connect with flywheel. then exhaust pipe and shift cable. I check the shift fork movement with each shift gear. then will be drive shaft from each side. make sure I feel the resistance from set ring and it is all the way to the end. there is no fluid leakage and I can rotate the wheel and feel the resistance from differential.
BTW, when I rotate the wheel on one side to forward when I jack up the front, the other side goes the other way (backward). is that normal?
first fill 3 qt fluid and start the car. shift to all gears 3 times. then add another 2 qts after stopping the engine and check the dipstick. restart the car again and shift all gears. then stops and refill until the fluid level is good.
that is it. I just follow the instructions from manual and no engine light on and no noise.
thx
Re-adjust the automatic shifter cable. Follow fsm.
I didn't see you say you bolt the flex plate up to the torque converter, confirm.
I didn't see you say you bolt the flex plate up to the torque converter, confirm.
thanks tony.
I did tighten the bolts between flywheel and TQ and there are 8 of them. I can double check for sure.
I am not sure about the shift cable. one thing I did was to ask my friend to shift gear on the top and I check to see if the shift fork move on each gear. It works fine from below.
I can check the adjustment with the manual. do you think shift cable can cause this big no-movement issue?
thx
I did tighten the bolts between flywheel and TQ and there are 8 of them. I can double check for sure.
I am not sure about the shift cable. one thing I did was to ask my friend to shift gear on the top and I check to see if the shift fork move on each gear. It works fine from below.
I can check the adjustment with the manual. do you think shift cable can cause this big no-movement issue?
thx
Thanks Tony
maybe it does not want it too tight or too loose. I check from below and the shift fork move normal with gear shift. will check again for sure.
maybe it does not want it too tight or too loose. I check from below and the shift fork move normal with gear shift. will check again for sure.
yes. I clean up all valve body and make sure they can move by gravity and follow the instructions. I also use pick to see they can move freely with spring.
Last edited by shiguiy; Jan 28, 2016 at 08:24 PM.
Alright try this, jack up the front end, support on jack stands, loosen up the return line from the transmission cooler, aim it over an oil catch pan, have a friend start car and put it in gear. Any fluid?
You don't have to run it for a long time, just enough to see if fluid is being pushed out of the transmission.
Report back soldier.
You don't have to run it for a long time, just enough to see if fluid is being pushed out of the transmission.
Report back soldier.
thanks tony.
I already jack up the front of the car. I notice the front wheel should not move on park. right now it does. first thing tomorrow morning will try to find the park position of the shift fork. park position should be counter clock wise to the left most, right?
I think the fluid pump should work fine since the fluid level goes down initially after I fill first 3 qt and start the engine. then goes down again after I add another 2 qt. the fuild level stay until I add the 6th quart.
will udpate.
thx
I already jack up the front of the car. I notice the front wheel should not move on park. right now it does. first thing tomorrow morning will try to find the park position of the shift fork. park position should be counter clock wise to the left most, right?
I think the fluid pump should work fine since the fluid level goes down initially after I fill first 3 qt and start the engine. then goes down again after I add another 2 qt. the fuild level stay until I add the 6th quart.
will udpate.
thx
Last edited by shiguiy; Jan 28, 2016 at 09:09 PM.
found the root problem. the reverse selector is upside down. I remember I did it right. but anyway I guess play that part several times and it got messed up.
Have a previous discussion about my trans issue:
civic 2000 transmission rebuild - Car Talk
Then decide to have a rebuild and still have shift issue between 20 mph and 40 mph. Engine rev high about 2500 when it accelerates from below 20 to below 40. the rpm stays about 2000 and does not come down even the gas pedal is not pressed. if pressing the gas hard, the rpm rev high around 2500 until I feel the shift and rmp drops to about 1500. I guess that rpm should be right with speed below 40 mph. even that, the car does not move that crispy. feel like stuck there like glue.
Speed over 40 mph feels reasonable.
Need to open up the shift cable cover to see if the TC has been replaced by mechanic or not. do not know this is TC issue.
civic 2000 transmission rebuild - Car Talk
Then decide to have a rebuild and still have shift issue between 20 mph and 40 mph. Engine rev high about 2500 when it accelerates from below 20 to below 40. the rpm stays about 2000 and does not come down even the gas pedal is not pressed. if pressing the gas hard, the rpm rev high around 2500 until I feel the shift and rmp drops to about 1500. I guess that rpm should be right with speed below 40 mph. even that, the car does not move that crispy. feel like stuck there like glue.
Speed over 40 mph feels reasonable.
Need to open up the shift cable cover to see if the TC has been replaced by mechanic or not. do not know this is TC issue.
Car is suppose to shift around there. Are you trying to make it shift lower?
edit: not much of a discussion going on in there...if you didn't rebuild it yourself than its best to take it back to the shop that worked on it and have it diagnosed again. If the tranny isn't slipping like you said in that other thread but only not shifting at a lower rpm than your mechanic should be able to adjust that. Yes its possible and I dont' recommend you doing this unless you know what you're doing.
edit: not much of a discussion going on in there...if you didn't rebuild it yourself than its best to take it back to the shop that worked on it and have it diagnosed again. If the tranny isn't slipping like you said in that other thread but only not shifting at a lower rpm than your mechanic should be able to adjust that. Yes its possible and I dont' recommend you doing this unless you know what you're doing.
just overall the shift is not crispy. The shop may say it is normal to avoid liability.
feel the shift around 20 (2nd to 3rd) and 40 (3rd to 4th) is not smooth.
feel the shift around 20 (2nd to 3rd) and 40 (3rd to 4th) is not smooth.
thx Tony.
the fluid level has been checked and right between the upper and lower mark. but the fuild is not honda fluid. I know they should use honda ones.
btw, what is the normal rpm range for the shift around 20 (2nd to 3rd) and 40 (3rd to 4th)? 2500-3000?
thx
the fluid level has been checked and right between the upper and lower mark. but the fuild is not honda fluid. I know they should use honda ones.
btw, what is the normal rpm range for the shift around 20 (2nd to 3rd) and 40 (3rd to 4th)? 2500-3000?
thx


