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Ive been following build threads on here since i was in high school, im 23 now so thought id start my own
Ive owned my eg for about 4 years down,bought it and it has this awesome sohc non vtec zc
the car didnt really come with any goodies like at all. ill skip the phasre of me buying a bunch of ebay parts for everyone sake
next thing i did was get different wheels that werent hellaflush, and do something about the motor. i decided to do mini me since the head gasket was going out. I used a d16z6 head. i had that set up for alittle over a year. ended up putting a si trans and light weight flywheel on it. kept up with all my friends b series cars. never tuned it,or messed with the exhaust
ended up bending the valves on that motor being stupid. ended up trying to do a high compression sohc build which didnt work out. Put in another d16z6 and took my car to a circuit day and blew a hole in that. Which bring me to where my car is today
1992 civic cx
Engine bay
-B18b1 with b16a2 transmission
-exedy oem clutch
-DC sports 4-2-1 header
-skunk2 alpha radiator
-greddy cooling plate
-oem integra type r strut bar
-no name catch can
Suspension
-BWR lower lca
-bwr subframe brace
-type r rear swap bar
-function 7 adjustable end links
-kyb shocks and skunk2 sleeves
-Skunk2 rear camber kits
-Skunk2 pro series front camber kits
-dc2 front subframe tie bar
AUTOX? Get a b16/b20 combo and rip it up on the track.
Not autox its actually on a track. I gonna go gsr this year. The b18 is plenty fast with the b16 trans but the redline is so low you dont have many gear option through a turn
Track, oh you mean the ones where they lay out cones....I'll pass.
High revving don't mean a thing. If this so called "track has mostly turns you won't be seeing that gsr rev limiter much.
Your choice. At least you made a decision instead of asking the typical "what should I do"
no not the ones with cones haha. not saying ill see the limiter but the higher rpms will be there when i need them. right now i can only go to 6200 compared to atleast 8200 in the gsr.
Conjecture mostly, I've read a lot of what many 'regulars' say and I've never seen a single bit about any of them going to school or ever being on any track.
Conjecture mostly, I've read a lot of what many 'regulars' say and I've never seen a single bit about any of them going to school or ever being on any track.
well i have videos and pictures of me at the track. last year had some hardships so didnt get to go as much as i would like. plan on making out there at least once a month. would be out there today if my aerocatches didnt break. Closes track to me is willowsprings and fontana speed way
no not the ones with cones haha. not saying ill see the limiter but the higher rpms will be there when i need them. right now i can only go to 6200 compared to atleast 8200 in the gsr.
"Not the ones with the cones" doesn't really say much. Dirt oval doesn't have cones, nor does road racing, but you'd be daft to use the same setup on both. What's more, it also depends on what tracks you're running. If you want real advice, you need to give more than just "because racecar".
Also...6200? What? The LS stock rev limiter is 7200.
Also also, your build is all over the place. Wilwood brake package, but you cheaped out on BWR suspension components? PS: that subframe brace, isn't. There's nothing wrong with Rota slips on the track, though. They're light, and they're cheap to replace when they get fucked up.
If you want to go faster, though, the absolute best mod you can get is a driver mod. If you haven't, go to some amateur race classes. Get seat time on the track. Find your lines. Work the **** out of those lines. All the power adders in the world won't mean **** if you don't know how to handle them.
"Not the ones with the cones" doesn't really say much. Dirt oval doesn't have cones, nor does road racing, but you'd be daft to use the same setup on both. What's more, it also depends on what tracks you're running. If you want real advice, you need to give more than just "because racecar".
Also...6200? What? The LS stock rev limiter is 7200.
Also also, your build is all over the place. Wilwood brake package, but you cheaped out on BWR suspension components? PS: that subframe brace, isn't. There's nothing wrong with Rota slips on the track, though. They're light, and they're cheap to replace when they get fucked up.
If you want to go faster, though, the absolute best mod you can get is a driver mod. If you haven't, go to some amateur race classes. Get seat time on the track. Find your lines. Work the **** out of those lines. All the power adders in the world won't mean **** if you don't know how to handle them.
when i said circuit he said oh the ones with the cones, i was assuming he mixed autox up with circuit/road racing. also i havent had any issues with the bwr stuff honestly. after getting it i did see some reviews and people where complanning but all they would say is its made in china, but really what isnt now a days. also im not trying to get more power by going gsr, just want something that can rev a little higher. i dyno tuned my motor and the power dropped around 6400. i agree with you seat time is more important then anything. im not some noobie. the car isnt done yet haha
You haven't had any issues with the BWR crap because you're only running a Type R sway bar. Go bigger, and watch as your subframe rips out, because their subframe brace...isn't actually a subframe brace. Their LCAs are made with shitty bushings that you'll be replacing in no time. Just because the power drops, doesn't mean you're out of revs to use. Find the peak, find your gear drop between shifts, and get your peak WHP right in the middle of that sucker to maximize space under the curve. If you just want to rev higher, you could build your LS to rev higher, instead of spending the coin on a new motor. Just throwing it out there as an option for ya.
You seem to have your head decently on your shoulders, compared to some of the dumb **** we see around here Hopefully something good comes of your build thread.
You haven't had any issues with the BWR crap because you're only running a Type R sway bar. Go bigger, and watch as your subframe rips out, because their subframe brace...isn't actually a subframe brace. Their LCAs are made with shitty bushings that you'll be replacing in no time. Just because the power drops, doesn't mean you're out of revs to use. Find the peak, find your gear drop between shifts, and get your peak WHP right in the middle of that sucker to maximize space under the curve. If you just want to rev higher, you could build your LS to rev higher, instead of spending the coin on a new motor. Just throwing it out there as an option for ya.
You seem to have your head decently on your shoulders, compared to some of the dumb **** we see around here Hopefully something good comes of your build thread.
once the bushings start going out im gonna replace everything with function 7. The only reason im really doing the gsr is stock its redline is higher and it has a better rod to stroke ratio then the ls. i dont really bring my ls over 5500 just to keep it healthy so with the gsr i cant bring that to 7800 and not bein stessing it out lol
But thank you for the complement. have some new parts on the way as we speak
Majority of the track layouts at these locations DO seem to have some straight aways so yes the high revving is probably needed.
So I ask you, do you think a just a high revving engine will be sufficient to improving track time?
Yes and no. No because power isn't everything, i know someone who went from gsr to d16 and there times didn't change at all. Yes because i feel ill be more confident in the motor, I'm making pushing the motor to 85 percent most the day(drive the car two hours there and two hours back) also better corner exit speed because I can be in lower a lower gear and be in a better power band. Honestly what will help me more is better coil overs and seat time. Which is what I'm working on now. Gsr isn't till the end of the year
gsr motor with a b16 transmission puts you in the right powerband for corners?
What will help you more is:
1) understanding your decisions on drivetrain setup for track.
2) Nobody pushes their car 85% every day because of stop and go traffic and speed limits set on the highway. If you're not pushing the car 100% on the track than you probably don't have an understanding of what you really need in terms of power.
3) suspension should've been your priority since this is a 92-95 eg hatchback that has seen some days. And I don't mean coilovers are the answer.
Judging by how you've been attempting engine builds and failed, swapping engines without doing any maintenance and end up blowing them tells me you're not even on the level of understanding what you need to get you to that goal.
gsr motor with a b16 transmission puts you in the right powerband for corners?
What will help you more is:
1) understanding your decisions on drivetrain setup for track.
2) Nobody pushes their car 85% every day because of stop and go traffic and speed limits set on the highway. If you're not pushing the car 100% on the track than you probably don't have an understanding of what you really need in terms of power.
3) suspension should've been your priority since this is a 92-95 eg hatchback that has seen some days. And I don't mean coilovers are the answer.
Judging by how you've been attempting engine builds and failed, swapping engines without doing any maintenance and end up blowing them tells me you're not even on the level of understanding what you need to get you to that goal.
I do understand my choice in motor. The gsr motor is designed to rev higher then the ls motor and at the track youre constantly reving the motor out. By 85 percent i mean i dont bring it near red line every gear. Car isnt daily driven at all anymore
The only bushing on my car that hasnt been swapped out is the trailing arm bushing. I am content with my suspension for what it is. But coil overs are high on the list of new parts.
Also you could ask anyone that knows me i take car of my motors. Maintenance is always done. Even if the car sits for to long ill change engine oil just because condensation in the oil. The first motor blew because of a miss shift and im not kidding i didnt 10 hard pulls a day on that that for a year haha. The high comp was a defective oe oil pump. The d16 after that i bought out of some guys back yard. Lastly i dont use cheap parts when it comes to the motor. Always oem or known brand. I may come off as a noobie but im far from it.
d16z6 was used for drag racing and still whooped *** back in the day. My bro bought the hatchback off of a friend after multiple, MULTIPLE, drag races. The engine ran for another 4 yrs before it was retired and replaced with a b20/b16 combo. Nuff said.
less is more EH2 build
