Did i push my rear seal in too far?
I installed a new OEM honda rear seal into my b18c last night and now I'm thinking i may have pressed it in to far. I was thinking it would be a good idea to tap it in more than the original seal so the new seal would have a untouched portion of the crank shaft to ride on. I seated it evenly with no damage to the new seal at all. I just want to make sure that this is okay before i put everything back together this afternoon.
Enjoy my talented paint image.
Enjoy my talented paint image.
I don't remember anything special when I did mine. I bought a new assembly with metal housing and installed. If you're doing the seal only then put back the way it came off. Try to get a helms
Thats interesting, almost every b-series block that I've replaced that seal its NEVER seated all the way back. It usually sits flush with the outer machined surfaced.
1st that is some image!
I pushed mine against the block, in 2012 and have had no problems.
If you don't have the driver and driver attachment, in the above photo (pg 7-29 service manual), you can take the seal to the plumbing section of a hardware store.
Piece together a
1. threaded male fitting (approx 2 1/2", but make sure that you don't need a 3" instead)
2. a piece of pvc pipe
3. a cap to go over the pvc pipe.
Lube the seal then put the threaded end, of the home made pvc tool against the seal and tap on the capped end, to evenly slide the seal in.
I tore my 1st seal up, thinking that I could gently tap around its edges, with a rubber mallet.
I pushed mine against the block, in 2012 and have had no problems.
If you don't have the driver and driver attachment, in the above photo (pg 7-29 service manual), you can take the seal to the plumbing section of a hardware store.
Piece together a
1. threaded male fitting (approx 2 1/2", but make sure that you don't need a 3" instead)
2. a piece of pvc pipe
3. a cap to go over the pvc pipe.
Lube the seal then put the threaded end, of the home made pvc tool against the seal and tap on the capped end, to evenly slide the seal in.
I tore my 1st seal up, thinking that I could gently tap around its edges, with a rubber mallet.
1st that is some image!
I pushed mine against the block, in 2012 and have had no problems.
If you don't have the driver and driver attachment, in the above photo (pg 7-29 service manual), you can take the seal to the plumbing section of a hardware store.
Piece together a
1. threaded male fitting (approx 2 1/2", but make sure that you don't need a 3" instead)
2. a piece of pvc pipe
3. a cap to go over the pvc pipe.
Lube the seal then put the threaded end, of the home made pvc tool against the seal and tap on the capped end, to evenly slide the seal in.
I tore my 1st seal up, thinking that I could gently tap around its edges, with a rubber mallet.
I pushed mine against the block, in 2012 and have had no problems.
If you don't have the driver and driver attachment, in the above photo (pg 7-29 service manual), you can take the seal to the plumbing section of a hardware store.
Piece together a
1. threaded male fitting (approx 2 1/2", but make sure that you don't need a 3" instead)
2. a piece of pvc pipe
3. a cap to go over the pvc pipe.
Lube the seal then put the threaded end, of the home made pvc tool against the seal and tap on the capped end, to evenly slide the seal in.
I tore my 1st seal up, thinking that I could gently tap around its edges, with a rubber mallet.
I used the old seal placed on top of the new seal. And went around with a 8mm pin punch and tapped the inside of the old seal in a criss cross pattern. I would have installed the new as deep as the old one but i went in a little to far and it was to late to turn back. So i just matched up the rest and made it even all the way around.
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