the car: 95 accord lx 2.2 nonvtec 5sp

started the other day let me move it into the garage and its been there ever since. i turn the key it fires and back fires really loud. and then dies. all while the key is being turned to start the car.
i read somewhere to keep holiding the key and see what it does, it stays running while i hold down the key but as soon has i let off thats it, it dies.
i also read somewhere that it could be the ignition coil. but I dont know how to check if thats the problem, let alone if these two scenarios match each other.

please help, getting yelled at to get it outta the garage.
thanks

 

Sounds like the electrical part of the key switch is bad. With the key in the "on"/pos II, are you getting voltage to the BLK/YEL wire going to the coil.

There are also some continuity tests you can do on the electrical part of the ign switch.

 

I honestly have no idea how to check that. Would you be able to share how i can do that? And lol how would i test the coil?
I know how to do a lot but the electrical part i could never figure it out

 

The car was running fine when you moved it into the garage ? Have you done any work on the car ? A backfire can be caused by spark plug wires in the wrong order.

 

It started the night before when i went to warm up my car it started i thought it was good so i went back inside. But i came back out and it had died. Tried starting it and after 5 or so times it magically started and drove me 25min home. Got home shut it off then tried again just to see and it ran then the next time after and wouldnt. So the next morning he did the same exact thing and after like 20 trys and started and got me over to my grandparents garage about a 20 min drive. And since then it hasnt moved. I havent done anything motor related to it while this has been happening nor before.

Really dont know what route or which part i need to get to fix it

 

Next time it is running. While parked, jiggle to key around and see it it shuts off. I have read about this being an issue for 98-2002 models.

 

Have a volt meter?

I'll assume you have the external coil dist - 95 non-vtec in sig - on the "wire"/"Car" side of the connector to the coil there is a BLK w YEL stripe wire. With the key to "on"/pos II, is it getting 12v?

For the switch, pull the connector from the under dash fuse box and test for continuity on the pins using the chart.

EDIT: Read signature wrong

 

It doesnt stay running. Ill turn the key, let me hand off the key and it dies.

 

Thats correct with the external coil dist. I will check that tomorrow, but i dont really have any idea on how to use a volt meter.
the same for the continuity test, not sure how.

But if the coil doesnt have 12v, does that mean its bad?

 

If you have a volt meter get it out and "play with it". If you have a brand and model number you can see if google has any help in using it.

With the key "on"/pos II and there is no voltage to the coil - usually that is a sign the electrical part of the ign switch is not "passing" voltage.

 

so i think i figured out the volt meter. however the one i have is really old and i couldn't figure out the continuity.

but with the key to the on/II pos there is voltage or 12v, so does that means its the coil? i am also assuming that since there was voltage at that plug it doesnt mean its the switch?
im still a little confused

but thank you for helping me out!

 

Just because you have 12v at the wire (BLK/YEL) at the coil doesn't test "anything" out yet.

I hate to suggest anyone replace anything without proper testing.

So next is to figure out how to test the ign switch. What is the brand/model of the one you have?

 

Ok, and i hate to replace stuff without testing as well. But the difference between the to parts is almost like 50-70$.

And with the volt meter it honestly one from prolly 1950 thats cheaper then a harbor freight one.
And im currently not by the car or the volt meter right now but can be if needed.

 

I'm a bit confused, it is me and not you, by the post.

Again, I hate to say "replace X" without testing but I'm 90% sure based upon the way I read this thread that the electrical par of the ign switch is done.

If you try to start the car, turn it to start but don't let go of the key all the way back to "on"/pos II - kind of hold it "forward". Enough to stop the starter but not all the way back to "on"....will the car stay running?

Do you have "harbor freight tools" in your area? I only ask as I get coupons where I can but "something" and get a simple volt meter for free.....they are not the best and I would not use them for "critical" testing but they do work for check battery voltage and pretty good for continuity testing....the last "free volt meter" I got from them, I needed a new tarp to cover the firewood....I got a new tarp or two and the volt meter was free. Without the coupon it was only like ~$7.

Right now I' stuck, can't really test. Pretty sure it is the ign switch but can't say for sure ......advance auto show them for ~$54, then there is a %15 discount code (might be more if you look).

Do you know anyone that has a volt meter that will do continuity tests?

 

When i start the car and held the key forward, it seemed like i was holding it forward enough to where the starter was keeping it running.

and yes i do have a harbor freight right down the road ill go pick one up and see if i can figure out how to work that one, for the continuity test.

And ill ask my instructor at school to use his and if not ill pick the harbor freight one up and do the test before i make the purchase on the part.

 

I have to ask, is the ign/starting system a stock/OE set up. I only asked because you started and recently updated another thread.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...start-3217762/

 

Yeah everything dealing with that is stock, and with that other thread i was planning on doing because they key was really worn down to where it has stripped on me a couple times and i can remove it while its on, so i figured why not a push button. But then i looked up the part and i think someine stated before that its only a 50$ part if thats what is bad, but that still wont help the key mechanism which was like 130$, so i have no idea how i shoukd go about doing it!?!?

 

If i did the test correctly which i have no idea if i did it seemed that everything had power going to it?
I have no idea on if what i did was correct or not? also if your still wondering the make of the volt meter is Pro'sKit model 903-150NDS , it was on the wifi looking setting which i googled and found that was the function for continuity.

 

Stay with the "white" wire with one end, then with the other end check each of the "points" one at a time and be sure all have/show continuity.

 

UPDATE:

so i didnt know what else i could do or check but i decided whats it going to hurt checking fuel, so i checked it and like i thought it had fuel. so then i was really baffled on what was wrong so i decided what the heck ill just try and start it and see what happens; and wouldn't you know it started. thought it may have been a fluke so i shut it off and tried it again and sure enough it did again!?!?!? waited a day to try again and it started but then i noticed that when i turned the key to acc or run that none of the cluster lights would work until it was on and running. but while seeing this i tried to wiggle the key and nothing would turn on or light up??!!

could that have anything to do with the problem ive been having???

maybe the switch is bad and when i did the continuity test i altered it in some way that it may have started working sorta.

 

The contacts inside the elect part of the switch can get "flaky" and cause issues sometimes and work perfectly others. I'm willing to bet under the right situation it will die out on you again......

 

is that what is causing the cluster lights to malfunction?
should i replace the switch??

just curious if that picture i put up was the correct way of doing that test?

also, would these to be connected and causing me the problems??

i really dont want to take the car very far away right now because i didnt change anything at all. it would really be nice if i would change that and it fixes both problems, then id have the confidence to take if to where i needed to go!


thank you so much!!

 

Since it is "working" right now the tests are not going to help much.

Let me try the testing again. Meter set to test continuity. One probe ""STAYS" on the white (WHT) wire. The other probe is touched to the others one at a time. Each time the other probe is touched to the other points it should have continuity.

So with the key in pos-II or "on". Three tests are needed.
1. WHT to WHT/BLK
2. WHT to BLK/YEL
3. WHT to YEL

 

yeah i did the test wrong. i will retry tomorrow and see what it says!

would anything i did help me narrow down if its the switch or not? i want to replace it so i know the problem is resolved.
the only thing i messed with testing wise were the ign. coil , ign switch , fuel rail , and i just adjusted my throttle body (after the fact) due to a past problem?

 

could moisture be the right situation you speak of i have had a leak coming some on the driver side from somewhere the windshield drain to the wheel well?
since i started this thread i have dried it up, clean the whole floor board, taken the carpet out and it has been sitting in a heated garage.
i have tried finding where the leak is coming from and sealed one of the gourmets. not sure if thats where it was coming from or not but from what i could tell.