Hey guys, I'm looking into buying a b series LSD transmission I found locally.

The guy is asking $800 CAD and I looked at it tonight, it is definitely an LSD, no stamp that I can see but looking thru there's no bar in the diff like an open diff.

We're going to figure out the ratios and maybe pull it apart this weekend. Anything I should look out for before I buy a part that's more than my car cost? I'm thinking of offering $600.. but he knows it's a rare one, lol..

 

Is built after 1996? If it is, it should have a VIN plate on the front that you can use to identify the car it originated from. I would also look at the bolts on the case halves to determine if it was opened. Look for no OE sealer on the halves, and rounding (or other evidence of bolt removal) on the bolts.

Test shift the unit and ensure it changes gears, and check for input shaft end play.

 

Didn't see any vin plate, nor could I see an LSD stamp.. And thanks for the tips.

Hopefully will look again again tmr. The PO talked to the PPO and he says be lives it's from b16. Pretty sure it's hydro, there seems to be 2 bolt holes to mount the slave on the side same place as my ls.

 

Here's some pics.

And heres what his ad says now..

Previous owner apparently got rid of it because they built an awd CRVic

 

Given the fluid leaks that this unit had, I would say the preload on the differential is completely gone, causing fluid to spill from the axle seals. It appears to be a 92-95 SiR-II unit with an LSD option. The front torque mount in the 3rd photo appear to have been absent its entire life, and is a bit suspicious to me. In my experience this part would have a sticker on the front of it indicating it is an S4C, with an LSD option (that stamp is probably long gone).

Whats also concerning is the lack of the lower splash shield, which means to person who did install this did not care about missing part or accuracy. Given the general exterior condition, and the fact that was most likely removed and installed AT LEAST once, I would shy away, unless you can get a tremendous deal.

The types of used transmissions you want to be buying would appear factory in all respects, in mounts, bolts, and normal wear and tear (which this unit clearly does not have). Given the cut wire harness, this unit was probably pulled in haste to sell by a scrapper.

 

I really appreciate the honest up front answer, this is a big purchase and I'm wondering if money is better spent on throwing an m factory or quaife in my ls trans and rebuilding it when the time is right. I really miss having an LSD but.. say I do get a good deal, worth building up? What do you think a good deal is?

 

Also wonder why someone who's apparently a reputable mechanic at a good shop would say it's better than it is.. bolt in and go with LEAKY? Noo

 

His bottom line he says is 650. I was going to offer 600 before slows input. Remember these are canadian dollars so like 450 usd.

 

*thinking his money is better spent on an m factory, carbon syncros and maybe a custom gear or two for his ls tranny*..?

 

It really depends on your goals. I personally do not install any gearbox into any car I own until I rebuild it for fitness. This is one part that I do NOT want to be dealing with twice, if I can help it.

In nearly every case, including my customers, I end up repairing or rebuilding the unit they have. It is too much risk to buy a unit and have no real clue as to how it will operate when it is installed.

 

Slow, you should see what people said about your inferences on said transmission.

 

0/10 would not buy.

Rebuild/upgrade your trans.

 

Define "people" please.... Identify yourself for the group. If you hold this "persons" opinion greater than mine, then follow it. Why did you post in the first place?

The oil leak is an axle seal leak, as the oil is only visible on and around the axle seals. There is no visible oil around the speed sensor housing. Oil still follows the law of gravitation.

You are not looking at the forward torque mount, which is what I was referring to. There is clear evidence of aluminum oxidation because that mount was not in place.

Splitting open any used part is what an educated individual would do to evaluate the fitness of the part. The fact you say that this is a retarded idea leads me to believe you have no real skill in evaluating used parts. The harness being cut is a clear giveaway that this unit was removed in haste, for a quick sale. A reasonable technician would preserve the wire harness on the car for future use, which was obviously not a concern here. Corner cutting....

Silicone does expand, and this is widely known. If you are suggesting that somehow this expansion will stretch the bolts and potentially create a leak point at the case halves is, in all honestly, retarded. This is a moot point on all Honda manuals, but this does apply to automatics, which uses a paper gasket that must be torqued and installed properly to maintain differential bearing preload.

I will give you an opportunity to explain your comprehensive "non-intrusive tests" before I respond with my own comprehensive list of non-intrusive and intrusive tests. Lets let Honda-Tech and the OP decide for the record.

I'll end on this note. If the part is in great condition, or has be vetted by some other party, than there should be no problem proving this information. I take it as a point of pride to be questioned by a seller, and I go through whatever process they require to prove the part is serviceable. If you think you can advertise a part in excellent condition and not prove it to them, you are dishonest, and need to be avoided.

I honestly had no idea we were bashing on a certain "person". But given that previous post, you should be avoided, until you can prove what you sell is as good as you say it is.