I had planned on taking a block of wood and forming it into the desired shape, then hammering the sheet over the wood, cutting to size, etc.

Any advice on this, is there a more efficient way? I believe I've read before that there is no need to heat aluminum sheet when forming. And how would I get hammer marks out so it can be smooth again? Thanks!

 

This all depends really on what your trying to make and what type of aluminum you plan on using.

 

It's for an intake plenum. I already have all materials, aluminum to be used is .1"/ 2.5mm T6 aluminum sheet (besides flanges). Thanks for any insight

 

this is what i use and it works great. I know it will cost you but if you plan on doing sheet metal work in the future this is a great investment. but if your gonna do it all by hand then i would clamp it down to a table/bench with the bend seam on the edge of the table/bench, then clamp a 2x4 piece of wood running along the bend seam on the opposite side of the bend direction, so the wood would be on the top side and you would be bending your piece of aluminum down. the 2x4 should be big enough as a handle to help bend, if it isn't then step up to a 2x6 or 2x8. if it is cold outside, even if it isnt i recommend heating your piece up with a heat gun or blow dryer.

Woodward Fab Box and Pan Bending Brakes WFBP4816 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

 

6061-T6 aluminum, will more then likely crack on you depending on how much of a bend you want. A brake will be your best tool to use in this case then hammer and anvil idea. Not saying it cant be done, it just depends on what radius your looking for.

 

6061-T6 needs to be annealed to T0 before forming, otherwise you will crack it or create edges that are highly prone to cracking.

 

Great info here, thanks!

I'm trying to envision how that machine works but I can't see it lol. For that price though, I think I'll stick to welding flat pieces of sheet. I wanted a cleaner look with forming the metal, but welding flat pieces of sheet shouldn't adversly affect the design. I'll bookmark that product though, I'm sure I'll want it sooner or later

So if T6 must be annealed, what is an ideal aluminum grade for forming?

 

I plan in using .100" 5256 sheet for my intercooler and intake. 6061 is fine for tube and creating boxes that don't require bending but you something more malleable

 

5256, good to know how will you go about forming it for your intake? Or will you be welding flat pieces also

 

Once I get to that point, I'll get creative in how to form, or maybe by then I will have a set of rollers and a box brake (doubt it lol)

 

$700 in the above link doesn't seem too bad, if it's something you will use often

 

I want one with taller fingers

 

What does that mean?lol what will taller fingers do

 

6061 is a very strong material, but will crack on tight bends. For forming purposes, use 5052. Try using a rubber mallet to avoid denting the material if you don't have access to a brake. You can very easily make a DIY brake with some angle iron and all thread. There are videos all over youtube for how to build one.

 

Building one yourself sounds like the way to go then!

 

This was at harbor freight today for 50 bucks i think

 

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=629

 

Hmm I'd be interested in seeing exactly how the sand bag is used

 

x2

5000 series is what you want for decent strength, formability, and welding capability.

 

Planishing!

I've always wanted to build a gas tank for a bike this way.

 

To anneal it just use the hand soap and torch method. Form as required.

 

Ok so while we're here, can you explain what annealing is exactly and why/how hand soap and a torch accomplishes this

 

Annealing (anyone who has more detail or want to correct me go right ahead) is the process where you make the molecules of the material you're working on to be "uniformed" - in the sense where you essentially relieve any stresses from prior processing like cold rolling/working. In terms of 6061, you anneal it so it doesn't crack once you try to bend it (mostly with tight bends)...

The hand soap method is to apply hand soap onto the surface of the material, torch it and once the soap turns black, you've reach your annealed state.

Also, if anyone hasn't already mentioned this, 6061 aluminum is very finicky to work with. It does not like to bend and hold a shape and will require you to 'break the plane' and go further than what you're trying to achieve (ie - 90 degrees to yield 30 degrees kind of thing)

Do you have a rough sketch of what you're trying to achieve?

 

No sketch, I decided earlier that forming the sheet (at least 6061) isn't for this project. Especially now that you say I'd have to "over-bend"!! That's just not efficient to me, I might as well get 5000 series. Thanks for the annealing explaination

 

Do it. Post progress plz

Have you ever Planishing before?

Great stress reliever.