Looking to daily my car a little more and trying to find out what most people are running as far as rates for daily driver. Tire size and rims te37 15x7 205-50-15

 

I'm running 14k up front and 8.5k rear. My set up is also dampening, so I like how it rides for the height it sits at.

 

What brand would you happen to have pics how it sits

 

This is a very subjective question so it's hard to answer.

I personally ran two setups on my EK.

Koni/GC with OTS rates 380/250 lb/in. The rear end was too harsh going over bad surfaces for me.

I currently have KWs, which have softer springs and better matched shocks. Ride comfort was improved as were overall grip levels - where the car would skip over mid corner bumps and become unsettled, it now soaks up the bump without loosing composure. The compromise was a loss in steering response and increased body roll.

I think the KWs are more daily driver-friendly. Still nowhere near stock levels of ride comfort though.

So soft rates with well matched dampers would be my advice. KW V3 is what I would buy now. But on my next daily I'll run stock suspension. At 32 I realized "go karts" are best enjoyed in small doses.

 

i got GC koni with all 4 top hats

im on highest setting and im low as ****
430LB/400LB (current)
Ride quality is beautiful im on 1.25 turns towards hard (starting solft)

i do have another set 350F/400R brand new i havent threw onto my secondary car yet, hoping to see how that rides too (stock top hats)

ive had multiple gc koni's on all my cars lol
400/400 was cool (long time ago)
500/400 was pretty stiff (long time ago)
350/350 was cool(long time ago)

ive noticed from 350-450/350-400 was all about the same give or take
once u hit the 500LB f/r's thats when things get very "Stiff" and u feel everything but rebounds great

 

yeah i agree with this. personally i feel less than 300-350 the car feels soft and kinda floats around. more than 500 is a bit stiff but i do like it. currently im on cs2's 350/500 and if i hit a bad bump up front with the 350 the car dives pretty bad. id probably upgrade that to around 400-450.

here's a pic of the ride height on my old ex. as i get older i dont mind a bit stiff but have no need to be super low so i hit bumps and dent headers etc...


for the record my turbo civic is on omni drags, which are i think 800/1000. honestly it doesnt hurt my back or anything, but if you hit a bump at any speed all the stuff in the trunk goes airborne for a minute lol. between those rates and the roll cage there is 0 body roll its fun i gotta say

 

Your going to get a lot of mixed opinions here, the fact is you can't compare spring rates from one brand to another, each damper handles how it controls the springs differently. I will tell you this, the rear spring rate dictates a lot of comfort when it comes to these chassis. It's soo hard to recommend a rate especially when you don't know what brand of coilover you want to go with.

Our clients always leave it to us, no guess work, just get what your needs require right off the bat.

For Koni Yellows I always suggest something along the lines of 400/350, anything higher is no worth it unless your racing ofcourse and the more you lower your car on the yellows the harsher the ride tends to get. The good new set of yellows can control up to about 500lbs, they say higher, but how long these shocks last, they don't control those high rates for very long well. You are at the top of the range with them there with their valving. I don't post much on here anymore, but if you have any questions feel free to PM me regardless of what brand your interested in going with, I am here to help.

 

Here's a picture of my car. D2 "Super Low" 14k up front and 8.5k rear. IMO these ride amazing, even on the stiffest dampening setting. Like a lot of people have said, It all comes down to personal preference, especially between different brands.
Take into consideration how low you want to be also. It would be plain silly to have super stiff springs for a car that has only a 1.5" drop. The lower you go, the stiffer your springs should be (so you don't bounce around and break more things).

 

What rates for which shocks? And what car?

 

Thanks a lot I will PM you about this I'm currently in koni and GC can't remember the rates regardless it's time to upgrade. Thanks again to everyone else who took the time to reply and help me out

 

Ya I'm not into the lower looked so much. I rather have some meaty tires under there due to traction issues in my car. would post pics how it sits but not sure which file to do it as.

 

if someone can point me in the right direction on uploading I will get some pics while the car is down. Being upgraded at the moment

 

Nvm it went sorry it's kind of dark didn't know the pic would work

 

OP, since you have a baseline, why not tell us what you think of it and why you want to upgrade? You must be unsatisfied with something, right? What exactly? That should give us a better idea of where to point you to.

Sorry but I can't let this go by. I don't know how you can say that with a straight face. That car has no suspension travel, it can not ride amazing. You can't cheat physics you know.

 

I'm just looking for something good for daily driving which was addressed as far as rates go thanks

 

Dude probably upgraded from eBay specials. It would ride better than those hopefully.

On your ots konis, you said the rear rate was only 250lbs. The stock ctr rate is 240 iirc. It doesn't ride bad to me.. But then again it is progressive in the rear instead of linear..

 

It has shock travel because the shock bodies are adjustable. You can shorten the shock case length to lower the car. Unfortunately, they probably don't "ride amazing", based on my last experience with D2 coilovers that my friend installed on his car. They probably ride better than most other suspensions would AT THAT HEIGHT.

People think everything rides amazing. People think 450LB rear springs with OTS Koni yellows "ride amazing". Apparently, if someone buys it... they think it "rides amazing". "Zero problems", "YOLO", and all other dope *** phrasing to ward off haters. Or people just have very low expectations. Or they haven't experienced anything that actually "rides amazing".

Spring rate choice depends quite a bit on shocks. Idk what the OP has...and doubt he's going to answer any questions. Hopefully AMR will be able to point him in the right direction.

They already mentioned how the rear spring has a huge impact on ride quality on the chassis' in question, which I 100% agree with.

On stock Koni yellows, anything more than a 250LB rear spring seems like an awful idea for a daily driver. Koni yellows are meant for a very modest drop and the ride quality is described as "acceptable" by Koni. I used the word "bearable". Very similar. With OTS GC rates (360/250), the ride is BEARABLE more than it is "amazing".

 

I have 450F 350R Progress CSII coilovers in my DB1 integra. It rides FIRM but it's not jarring or overly stiff. Rough road's its a little rough. Not harsh, just a bit bumpier. But on the freeways and even on uneven roads, it takes bumps and dips really smoothly. I've ridden in "normal" cars, and I'd say that besides the extra firmness, the ride overall is smoother as a lot of the dips and bumps in a road are dampened very well, so you don't get any oscillations as you drive around.

Actually, the first thing I noticed when I put those coil overs on my car, is when I would drive over a speed bump, the rear would squat a bit, then gently level out. Normally I would feel a bit of an oscillation in the rear end (no matter what car it was) as it bounced coming off the speed bump.

Though, I think part of the reason why my setup works is because I have a 4 door. It weighs 2700lbs with me in it, and the added length of the car I think changes the feel of the suspension compared to shorter wheelbase cars.

 

this is what drives me nuts. I despise that feel. my opinion anything less than around a 350 rate will do that. I see you also have the cs2's. ive been quite pleased with mine. after about 4 years and around 40,000 miles(including dirt roads and lots of new york potholes) of being installed on random cars ive had the struts are on their last leg. you can get replacement ones for around 70 bucks each i believe which makes the progress suspension a great choice to purchase saving you a bunch of cash from needing all new coilovers. also i think the spring rates are all linear so your ride height won't directly effect the rates/ride through the springs

 

Not trying to get into a huge debate/argument but at the height that my car is sitting (or was since it's not in winter mode) they ride better than any other suspension set up I've had/been in. Compared to F&Fs/eBay crap/Tokico struts with sleeves, it's much better. These are full bodied coilovers and they do have schock travel still left in them because they thread into the shock body without changing spring compression or shock compression. I see that OP doesn't want to be low, so my input isn't really needed.

 

I don't think the shocks are the limiting factor here. At that height we will hit the shock towers if the wheels move upwards much. At that height he needs to have very stiff springs to limit suspension movement and thus avoid contact. If there is no movement, there will be no compliance to deal with bumps... Result, poor ride comfort and poor traction due to the car skipping over bumps instead of following the road surface. I seriously don't understand why people ruin their cars like this. I guess they think it looks good? It really does not. A functional car is a pretty car. Fortunately the OP seems to have a functional ride height in mind, although I don't understand why he doesn't want to explain his goals or dissatisfaction with the current setup better.

Totally agree. Having driven on that setup (OTS Koni/GC rates) for 90.000 Km, bearable is exactly the word I'd use.

 

I went with AMR for my coils, and went with 550/450. I love them, and am more than happy with the rates we went with. They definitely aren't perfect for everyone though.

You really need to take into account what you want from the vehicle, and if you are okay giving up comfort.

 

My Koni yellows definitely worked great on stock ITR springs at stock ITR height.

Remember...these are available as the same part number for ITR's as they are civics and CRX's. They're valved for stiffer than stock springs (for a civic). And should be fine to lower a civic/non ITR up to 35mm (1.38").

Well...stock ITR/CTR springs are quite a bit stiffer than those found on a civic or regular integra. And they would lower civics and regular integras about 1".

So stock ITR springs are probably in a very good range/match for Koni yellows at the stock perch height...if you're looking for ride quality. The progressive coils don't have much to do with it. You're pretty much at 250LB/IN all the time. The progressive coils are there as dead coils to add load for droop (like a helper spring).

You can go stiffer with the front springs without losing too much ride quality. But after about 250 for the rear....you're kind of rolling the dice.

 

How many miles you guys gettin' out of your Koni yellows???

 

IIRC, I put like 40 or 50k on my EM1's koni yellows. OTS GC rates...and later I swapped to ITR springs. They seemed fine still.

I had them on my old ITR and my current ITR. But I never really put a lot of miles on them.