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Hi guys so heres i guess little back story and then the current how it sits with full list of everything thats been done. Bought the car about a year ago with no plans to ever go this far into it. I own a 540I and a Built 93 E30 vert and wanted something different. growing up i had a hand full of Ef hatches and a turbo Ek coupe and always wanted a Ek9. so decided i would buy one and probably do a clean Ek build. as we all know that never stays the case and things kinda got out of control. car kinda had a B20B in it when i say kinda i mean like only one motor mount was in right wiring looked like something i would have done when i was 16 everything was just really half assed and i was kinda surprised it ran. I started by fixing all the wiring. the full coolant System Overhaul. samco hoses new water pump and thermostat mismoto rad and fan kit. then Gates racing timing belt and skunk 2 Ti timing gears. Then wanted some more out of it did the Skunk 2 pro series intake manifold and 75mm throttle body and Rc 550CC injectors with hondata 2. still needed more and after being little but hurt that my buddy Wrx got me by i fender i decided **** it sent sometime seeing who made the best turbo kits and ended up ordering a Go Auto works Full Race kit with a garret GT3076R HKS blow off valve Tial waste gate Full 3 inch piping. then a Moroso oil pan because well didn't feel like drilling and tapping the factory pan for a return line. we got the car all together and took it out for a test ride and well the fuel pressure regulator let out and started dumping fuel and ended up catching fire and well yeah lol burned up the wiring harness and everything in the back of the motor. So now we pulled it all back apart again. i ordered Full Aem everything for the fuel Grams 1000CC injectors. Cams i went with the brian cower Stage 2 turbo cams and TI retainers and triple wall springs. new head gasket and arp head studs. sending the head out to be re decked and ported and the valves done. and the intake manifold ported to match the head. NOW I FULLY UNDERSTAND VTEC MAKES MORE POWER. trust me i know I've been doing this for sometime now but i wanted to actually see what could be made from a B20B with the right parts and the right Tuning. because I'm sorry but theres little to no info on anyone really building a B20 besides Ebay bullshit and a horror story. So once i get the head back and the car tuned ill post up some Dyno Videos and try to bring some light. what a Turbo B20B will push numbers wise and how long the bottom end last. I plan on after the sleeves let out building a full bottom end and possibly doing a brian crower stroker kit to bump it up to a 2.2 figure the Tq will be fun.
So engine so far done or sitting in boxes
B20B
SI trans with Stage 2 clutch
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold and 75MM throttle Body
Skunk2 Cams gears
Brian crower stage 2 turbo cams
Brian crower Ti retainers and valve springs
Aem Fuel pump filter pressure regulator and rail
Dev sport braided fuel line
OBX sold motor mounts
Grams 1000cc injectors
GO Auto works race kit
Garrett GT3076R
HKS SSQ
Tial waste Gate
AEM true boost controller
AEM Wide ban
Moroso Oil pan
ARP head studs
Head is being ported and polished with a valve job and intake being matched
probably for getting some stuff but thats it for the most part i think
Interior
JDM CTR cluster
Full Aem gaues
Momo race wheel with NRG quick disconnect
Knock off brides
Password JDM air bag delete
K Tune adjustable Shifter "Highly recommend "
Password JDM shift ****
Harness bar and well typical back seat removal and rear strut brace
Exterior 99 front end
Carbon canards
Dev sport front diffuser
CCW 17x8 all round
Ebay CTR headlights and grill
probably forgetting somethings but end of this year car should be repainted JS racing fenders and rear wing the new front bumper rear bumper and rear diffuser will all be installed. can't decide on color thinking about being basic and going with Type R white.
heres some pictures of before the turbo kit and after.
And some paragraphs. I'm interested in what you posted, but turned off by the giant blob of words. Break it up.
eH.
Judging by the way he present his images, it looks like this build thread was completed before it began, yeah I didn't read it either and couldn't understand some of his phrases.
That's a 400WHP turbo. Do you have engine internals upgraded that you didn't mention to run that kind of power, or are you just running an oversized turbo, hurting your own performance by not using it to it's abilities? Also, all that time and money, and you're trusting your life to knockoff seats? Are you daft?
Sorry for the terrible run ons. My spelling and grammar is terrible. The bottom end is complety stock. When I ordered the kit I talked to a acouple different people and they told me that turbo was perfect to start with what I'm doing. I plan on running it the way it is untill the bottom end let's out. I've been looking into different ways of doing the bottom end once it goes. Just can't figure our justify another 5k into the motor right now. Evans tuning is going to be tunning it once we get the top end back together. What ever they say is a safe level of boost for it to be at I'm going to run it that way. My total end goal is only 450 to the wheels on a reliable tune. If the bottom end let's out then I'll post a SOS and start ordering for the bottom end. Just at this point I would like to drive the damn thing. It's been probably 4 months and I'm just ready to start it and have that moment of happniess that this wasn't all in vain
This was when we pulled it apart I have to hand it to Honda because I honestly thought everything was going to be a lot more cooked from it catching on fire. Also the cylinder head was amazing clean. Minium gunk on any of the valves or in the head. So this is how it's sitting till I get back home and pick the head up. Is there any negitve draw backs to by passing the colant lines to the throttle body? The car won't be driven in the cold and is garage kept.
Haha full plans on cleaning all of it up lol that leads me to my next question what all is everyone deleting that really doesn't need to be there. I'm going to keep the heat. Car was a non power steering and Ac car to start with. Plan on deleting the charcoal canister. Running all the body harness through the fender area. I need to spend sometime figuring out what all can be deleted colant wise and sensor wise.
Sorry for the terrible run ons. My spelling and grammar is terrible.
The bottom end is complety stock. When I ordered the kit I talked to a acouple different people and they told me that turbo was perfect to start with what I'm doing. I plan on running it the way it is untill the bottom end let's out.
I've been looking into different ways of doing the bottom end once it goes. Just can't figure our justify another 5k into the motor right now. Evans tuning is going to be tunning it once we get the top end back together. What ever they say is a safe level of boost for it to be at I'm going to run it that way.
My total end goal is only 450 to the wheels on a reliable tune. If the bottom end let's out then I'll post a SOS and start ordering for the bottom end.
Just at this point I would like to drive the damn thing. It's been probably 4 months and I'm just ready to start it and have that moment of happniess that this wasn't all in vain
FTFY.
The return key is free. You should utilize it. At least once, but the more the better.
So rather than properly building your block, you're just saying "**** it, I'm going to blow it up"? So ruin a perfectly good block, risk ruining a perfectly good crank, and risk your pistons deciding to make sweet sweet metal love to your valves, ruining that headwork you just had done...?
So rather than properly building your block, you're just saying "**** it, I'm going to blow it up"? So ruin a perfectly good block, risk ruining a perfectly good crank, and risk your pistons deciding to make sweet sweet metal love to your valves, ruining that headwork you just had done...?
Do you see what I'm trying to tell you here?
And if the pistons and valves decide to meet up, they might send an angry little present to your turbine wheel in the form of FOD. I'm with NARC on this one...
I fully understand what you guys are saying but after 8 grand I would like to drive it. To do the bottom end correctly rods Pistons having the block sleeved and might as well do a crank we are talking 2500 3,000 ?
I fully understand what you guys are saying but after 8 grand I would like to drive it. To do the bottom end correctly rods Pistons having the block sleeved and might as well do a crank we are talking 2500 3,000 ?
You don't need sleeves for 400. Pistons and rods, bearings, hone, you can have a built LS bottom end for $1500 if you shop smart. Or, you can "drive it until it blows up", and now you still have to spend that $1500, but you also need a new block ($100 second hand), and you may end up needing a new crank (another $100), and new valvetrain work, which you've already bought once. Do I need to give you more dollar signs, or are you getting what I'm saying yet? And how the hell are you $8000 in with ZERO block work?
You're on the right path, man, you just aren't thinking towards the future. Instant gratification will bite you in the ***.
He dumped 8k into the car and the majority of it wasn't even into the engine. Thats what it sounds like to me.
We're talking about motor reliability, not some exterior/interior, handling nonsense. Anybody can spend an unlimited amount on the cosmetics to make it look nice but when you decide to do something like force induction you better do your math right and your homework.
EK B20B Non Vtec Turbo build
