A month ago I put an Exedy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate with a new flywheel, I built a core trans with new bearings and seals. For a month of driving operation has been nothing short of Badass.

2 days ago while driving home I heard a pop from behind the dash and the clutch pedal was gone. I figured the cable snapped because the pedal went to the floor or what I feared was that the clutch fork bolt backed out.

Tonight looked everything over and found nothing obvious. I took about 1 1/2" of slack out of the clutch cable and everything was fine. I drove about 15 mi hauling *** with no problems. I'm smart enough to know that the pop and slack in clutch cable add up to something in common. From what I've found so far these clutch pedals failure is common. I looked for what seemed like forever to try and find a crack or something loose and I can't find anything. If anyone has had a circumstance like this happen to them could you please post your findings

Thanks
Kenny

 

The actual pedal assembly may have cracked a weld. It's pretty common especially with a lot of usage. See if you can find an area on the pedal assembly where you can see the metal has torn apart. It's a pretty easy job changing the whole pedal assembly if that's your problem.

 

wow
I have owned over the years:
1991 Civic Si hatch teal
1991 Civic Si hatch red #1
1991 Civic Si hatch red #2
1991 CRX Si til 223k #1
1991 CRX si teal #2
1991 Crxi si teal #3
1991 Civic RT4wd
1988 CRX Hf
1989 /whatever is was EF9 RHD Sir red
and family members have owned a few too, and NONE of us have had a clutch pedal failure…. lucky, or imo you guys are unlucky with not so stock cars.

i see thread on here quite often saying a pedal box weld break but never had it happen to me.
I ahve had the normal stuff like glovebox hinge failure, fresh air vent failure, seatbelt warning lamps going off random, squeeky hatch, steering rack bushing dead, AC no work, seat belt retraction failure, rear hatch struts failure, side B pillar black trim cover failure, and leaky tailight gaskets,. but NEVER the pedal box failure….

and even if it was a weld failure like post #2 says, why would you change it out, you would just have it re-welded.

 

He will have to remove it regardless. It's pretty much impossible to weld while on the car. Plus, that would be a fire hazard and very dangerous.

I mentioned swapping because many people don't have welders, or ease of access to a welder. If he had an extra pedal set, he could pull the old pedals and swap the old set all at one time. That would essentially be no downtime for the OP and back on the road asap.

 

I'm a pretty accomplished welder so I'll take the pedal cluster out and inspect/repair. I'll post back with my findings

 

mine also did that on a lsd motorsports stage 3 and I also re adjusted and it worked .... never could find the issue so I left it ... motor blew before it ever popped up ...4 years later that is

 

All I could find is a small crack. I'll weld it up tomorrow and beef up some of these spot welds

 

I always assumed it was the fork settling on the throw out bearing or some **** like that

 

If no notable damage to the pedal i would consider a clutch cable that has pattiall6 failed especially having that extra 1.5 inches of slack on it suddenly...

 

Is it possible that the adjustment nut (on the transmission end) partially gave way and slid up the threads? Having a heavier pressure plate could result in this kind of increased stress, and I imagine the adjustment nut would be the weakest link.

 

Well after finding no big failure at the pedal box I'm in agreement that I must need a cable. When I installed the new clutch the adjustment nut for the cable was at the top 1/3 of the adjustment area when it went pop I had to adjust all the way to the last 1/3 of the adjustment

 

I would suggest that you find the failure at the cable to make sure, no sense in throwing parts at the problem until you actually find the problem.