Question regarding first DIY brake pad swap
I plan to replace the pads & drum on my 1st gen CR-V, and I had a few questions.
1) are there any tricks to getting those two screws on the rotor off? The dealership (I know, I know...) overtorqued the heck out of them last time and the local mechanic said that it would probably snap before giving.
-I was going to try some penetrating oil, an impact driver, etc. for a bit. If that doesn't work then maybe replacing that whole part (arm?) that it's attached to and starting from scratch.
2) is there any danger to driving with one screw (or none at all) on the rotor? Looks like a safety precaution, but the 5 bolts seem to do the work.
3) is there a general list what to check (and how) before putting things back on? I have the Helms manual, and I was going to follow that, but I'm still kind of wary. This'll be my first time doing brakes, and it's a little nerve-wracking. The Helms manual shows that a special tool is needed for the rear drum. Are there any general tips/tricks on double-checking things?
Thanks all, and sorry if these questions are kind of... dumb.
1) are there any tricks to getting those two screws on the rotor off? The dealership (I know, I know...) overtorqued the heck out of them last time and the local mechanic said that it would probably snap before giving.
-I was going to try some penetrating oil, an impact driver, etc. for a bit. If that doesn't work then maybe replacing that whole part (arm?) that it's attached to and starting from scratch.
2) is there any danger to driving with one screw (or none at all) on the rotor? Looks like a safety precaution, but the 5 bolts seem to do the work.
3) is there a general list what to check (and how) before putting things back on? I have the Helms manual, and I was going to follow that, but I'm still kind of wary. This'll be my first time doing brakes, and it's a little nerve-wracking. The Helms manual shows that a special tool is needed for the rear drum. Are there any general tips/tricks on double-checking things?
Thanks all, and sorry if these questions are kind of... dumb.
1. The dealership didn't overtorque them. They are generally a pain-in-the *** to remove but that means they're operating as designed. You won't get them off without an impact driver or the creative use of a screwdriver and hammer.
2. No.
3. Sorry, I've scrapped every drum brake setup I've ever had.
2. No.
3. Sorry, I've scrapped every drum brake setup I've ever had.
I plan to replace the pads & drum on my 1st gen CR-V, and I had a few questions.
1) are there any tricks to getting those two screws on the rotor off? The dealership (I know, I know...) overtorqued the heck out of them last time and the local mechanic said that it would probably snap before giving.
-I was going to try some penetrating oil, an impact driver, etc. for a bit. If that doesn't work then maybe replacing that whole part (arm?) that it's attached to and starting from scratch.
2) is there any danger to driving with one screw (or none at all) on the rotor? Looks like a safety precaution, but the 5 bolts seem to do the work.
3) is there a general list what to check (and how) before putting things back on? I have the Helms manual, and I was going to follow that, but I'm still kind of wary. This'll be my first time doing brakes, and it's a little nerve-wracking. The Helms manual shows that a special tool is needed for the rear drum. Are there any general tips/tricks on double-checking things?
Thanks all, and sorry if these questions are kind of... dumb.
1) are there any tricks to getting those two screws on the rotor off? The dealership (I know, I know...) overtorqued the heck out of them last time and the local mechanic said that it would probably snap before giving.
-I was going to try some penetrating oil, an impact driver, etc. for a bit. If that doesn't work then maybe replacing that whole part (arm?) that it's attached to and starting from scratch.
2) is there any danger to driving with one screw (or none at all) on the rotor? Looks like a safety precaution, but the 5 bolts seem to do the work.
3) is there a general list what to check (and how) before putting things back on? I have the Helms manual, and I was going to follow that, but I'm still kind of wary. This'll be my first time doing brakes, and it's a little nerve-wracking. The Helms manual shows that a special tool is needed for the rear drum. Are there any general tips/tricks on double-checking things?
Thanks all, and sorry if these questions are kind of... dumb.
As I mentioned, I haven't worked on CRV brakes, but for pressing the front pistons in, I use the following type of tool for my brake work on my Honda or my Audi (for stock or Brembo 4-piston)Mercedes Benz BMW VW Audi Disc Brake Pads Caliper Piston Press Spreader Tool | eBay. There are cheaper copies on E-bay (I paid over $30 years ago), but that one looks pretty similar to the one I bought.
As far as the rear drums, I'm not sure what tools you'll need, but when I used to replace drum brakes, I just used screw drivers, water pump and standard pliers etc... What was the special tool that the Helms manual mentioned, and what was it used for? - Jim
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
An impact screwdriver is what you want. Not an impact drill driver.
You actually strike an impact screwdriver with a hammer. Thats the one you want.
You actually strike an impact screwdriver with a hammer. Thats the one you want.
I would also recommend getting a JIT screwdirver. Some of those also come with a built-in impact feature. It won't cam-out like a Phillips will.
My recollection might be faulty but I think it was some kind of tool to compress things to make it easier to put back together. I ended up taking it into a shop due to time constraints but I was curious to see how hard it might be. I might try it next time. I'll update this thread if I get a chance.
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