ok so the title sums up most of the issues. below is the rest

bought the car for $400 already swapped. the guy who did the swap used the OBD-1 wiring harness for the H22, plugged it into the OBD2A harness of the accord, then used a jumper harness to go back to OBD-1 for the ecu. so that right there tells you im dealing with some crap.

now I plan to get the correct harness and straighten all this out the right way soon, this was only supposed to be a project to work on during the winter, but the engine in my civic blew and forced me to get this on the road so I don't lose my job.

ive hobbled everything together pretty good so far, im only throwing 2 cels right now. code 6 and code 10.

my main issue im having right now is it bogging, and running absolutely pig rich. I used a full tank of gas in 150 miles. code those two codes be the only source of my bogging and gas usage or could there possibly be more? I can answer any questions, I just need this thing running decent so I can get to and from work.

 

forgot I should probably mention, running an OBD-1 P13.

also until today it was throwing 3 codes, 6, 7 and 10.

I rewired the TPS and took care of number 7 on my break at work today so not sure if that has changed anything or not.

the engine was running decent for a little bit the first couple days I drove it, vtec would even engage if I could get it past 4K (bogging issue again) but now that's not even working.

dizzy, alt, sensors etc are all OBD-1, so its been a challenge to get this thing to even move under its own power.

im looking for a new motor for my civic so I can put this away and fix it right, but right now gotta get this going well enough I can get to and from work.

any help is appreciated

 

6 is for the ECT sensor. Engine cannot run correctly as the ECM cannot know what the temp of the engine is. Most likely would stay in limp mode. Thought the engine would not start with the ECT missing/damaged

10 is for the IAT sensor. ECM cannot properly control fueling if it is unable to calculate the air mass entering the engine.

Verify both sensors are within spc.
Verify harness to both sensors is intact and undamaged.
Verify sensor wires are going to the correct pins on the wiring harness.
Verify the power and ground cables are clean and tight on the battery posts.
Verify the battery is fully charged.
Verify the engine harness ground is clean, tight and uninterrupted.

Currently your ECM is running the engine blind. It knows the rpm and, if the TPS is working, knows what the throttle angle is. But without either temp sensors the ECM has no idea how much air is entering the engine, nor does it know how warm it is.
I'm more surprised the engine starts/runs, it is in limp mode fix the sensor issues first, this is most likely why it bogs.

 

I suppose it's possible you got the coolant sensor and iat sensor connectors swapped backwards somehow.

 

Ok so I rewired the ECT and the IAT sensors, and got those codes to go away. Runs much better, has almost all the power it should, and doesn't bog anymore.

But now I'm throwing code 12, 23 and 41. Along with those codes my vtec engagement is also jumpy. It will cut in and out, or sometimes stay on the whole time.

Oil level is good, gonna work on these codes now and also check to make sure the vtec components are in good shape.

Any and all info/suggestions are still more then welcome

Edit

Ok it still bogs taking off from a start. Makes in city driving very irritating.