Installing Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket...few ???
I did a search and it appears that nobody had any problems, but I just want to clarify a few things...
1) I plan on using the supplied Hondata washers...will I need longer studs or will the stock studs be long enough?
2) What is the torque spec for the studs for re-installation?
3) How much coolant do you need to drain out prior to install?
Thanks for help. If anyone else has some useful install tips...I'm all ears!
1) I plan on using the supplied Hondata washers...will I need longer studs or will the stock studs be long enough?
2) What is the torque spec for the studs for re-installation?
3) How much coolant do you need to drain out prior to install?
Thanks for help. If anyone else has some useful install tips...I'm all ears!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 529
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From: NORTHERN California
you will need to get longer studs and make sure you dont torque the bolts to tiight I cracked a few washers already so be carefull.
buy the way people I have 10 RACE gaskets left if you guys are interested for the TYPE R (B16) no coolant hole (custom hondata).
buy the way people I have 10 RACE gaskets left if you guys are interested for the TYPE R (B16) no coolant hole (custom hondata).
1) I plan on using the supplied Hondata washers...will I need longer studs or will the stock studs be long enough?
2) What is the torque spec for the studs for re-installation?
3) How much coolant do you need to drain out prior to install?
2) What is the torque spec for the studs for re-installation?
3) How much coolant do you need to drain out prior to install?
2) They are about 17 ft-lbs if I recall but it is a bitch to get a tq wrecnh down in some of those places. Use a regular wrench.
Tip: Start from the MIDDLE and work your way out tightening the bolts and stucds. Also be gentle on the passenger side due to the coolant hole causing a weak spot. (TRUST ME ON THIS ONE)
3) About 1/2 of it they say. Just drain it all and fill it back up with 80% Distilled water, 10% Antifreeze and add some water wetter if so inclined (This can be bought at pep boys)
Thanks for all the info! As suspected, some some longer studs, some say stock studs are fine. I'm going to go ahead and use the stock studs.
Asahi, you're saying to re-use the stock nylon washers, correct?
I thought the coolant mixture was to be 50% water / 50% antifreeze. Instead, you recommend an 80/20 mixture. What is ideal for a car run in the Midwest, driven in all seasons...with winter on the horizon?
Asahi, you're saying to re-use the stock nylon washers, correct?
I thought the coolant mixture was to be 50% water / 50% antifreeze. Instead, you recommend an 80/20 mixture. What is ideal for a car run in the Midwest, driven in all seasons...with winter on the horizon?
No I am saying use what Hondata sends you. There are no stock washers. I got a freind at hondata to send me the old style washers since they are thicker and more durable.
I use about 90/10 here in TN. We get little to no snow and a really cold day here is 30 degrees. Figure water freezes at 32 F but you have to consider that being in the radiator plus the slight mixture of antifreeze nets me enough degrees to not worry. If we have a cold spell I will add more antifreeze.
FYI antifreeze does not cool as wel as water. It does prevent corrosion and freezing. Do what you think is best for your climate.
I use about 90/10 here in TN. We get little to no snow and a really cold day here is 30 degrees. Figure water freezes at 32 F but you have to consider that being in the radiator plus the slight mixture of antifreeze nets me enough degrees to not worry. If we have a cold spell I will add more antifreeze.
FYI antifreeze does not cool as wel as water. It does prevent corrosion and freezing. Do what you think is best for your climate.
I looked at the current manifold/studs/bolts tonight and can't imagine the stock studs being long enough to accomodate the thicker Hondata gasket and the plastic washers they sent and being able to thread the nuts back on.
Before I even attempt this install, I think I'm going to order longer studs!
Before I even attempt this install, I think I'm going to order longer studs!
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DO I need to go take pics of my gasket on the cvar with stock stufds or a pic of my freinds B16 with sltock ctuds?
Just put the damn thing on
Just put the damn thing on
I believe that yours works as per your install suggestions. It's just that looking at the stock set-up, the nuts are now at the end of the studs with the stock gasket and no washers.
Visually, the studs don't look long enough.
I'll take your word for it though
Visually, the studs don't look long enough.
I'll take your word for it though
How long does it take to install? Any hardships or unexpected occurances while installing?
B2 - who is thinking about getting one
B2 - who is thinking about getting one
The stock studs on my ITR head were barely long enough, and I had to back out the studs slightly.
I torqued mine down to 17lbs and broke my manifold at the water neck, enough that I got a new manifold.
I torqued mine down to 17lbs and broke my manifold at the water neck, enough that I got a new manifold.
I looked at the current manifold/studs/bolts tonight and can't imagine the stock studs being long enough to accomodate the thicker Hondata gasket and the plastic washers they sent and being able to thread the nuts back on.
Before I even attempt this install, I think I'm going to order longer studs!
Before I even attempt this install, I think I'm going to order longer studs!
The gasket may require slight trimming with an Xacto or sharp utility knife.
I used longer stainless steel studs, washers and nuts for less heat transfer. The SS washers were larger than what Acura uses and I think work better with the plastic washers.
This is also a good opportunity to by-pass the TB if you want to do that.
The nuts under the manifold were easy to reach with a longer extension that placed the ratchet back close to the firewall.
Good luck.
John
I used longer stainless steel studs, washers and nuts for less heat transfer. The SS washers were larger than what Acura uses and I think work better with the plastic washers.
This is also a good opportunity to by-pass the TB if you want to do that.
The nuts under the manifold were easy to reach with a longer extension that placed the ratchet back close to the firewall.
Good luck.
John
everyone using stock studs did you have to back them out a lil out of the head?
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