I need help! i have a 1996 civic coupe dx and it has trouble starting from time to time. Sometimes it starts right up, but other times it cranks and has a very hard time starting. When it does have trouble which is pretty frequent, it cranks to the point where it like about to start then sort of bogs out. And when it does start up after some attempts (sometimes I have to let it sit) it has a really rough idle with fluctuating rpms for about 5 seconds then i give it some gas and it goes back to normal and the engine idles good and drives great . Just sometimes when I start it, it has problems. I had the distributor replaced, new battery, and today just replaced the main relay. It still sometimes start right up and other times it has trouble. I hear the fuel pump priming when the key is in "on". My mechanic recently replaced the headgasket also, and ever since it's had this problem. Can any help with suggestions? Could it be the timing of the dizzy? Thank you in advance, I'm a 18 yr old trying to save money but I've spent a lot already.

 

Post the CEL codes, and also replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs.

Did you install a new or used distributor? What brand?

 

No check engine light. Replaced with used distributor. Not sure on brand. Than you for replying, so I shouldd replace spark plug wires and spark plugs?

 

Does it work?

Figure it out and post the information.

Did you expect me to change my mind?

 

Also try checking ur fuel pressure.

If you haven't replaced ur fuel filter in a long time start thinking about replacing it. Fuel filter is probably old and clogged with debris.

 

Just making sure thanks

 

I will thank you!

 

When the engine is cold does it start right up?

When the engine is already warmed up does it have difficulty starting?

 

That seemed to be the case before I replaced the main relay. I would start it up cold and it would start fine. When I would run a couple errands like go to the store and come back to my car having trouble starting. Figured it was the relay with messed up solder joints expanding and compressing with the temperature. Changed that and now I just started my car cold in the morning and it again had trouble but I let the ignition in "on" and let the fuel pump prime for a couple secs then I cranked the car and it started. Any help? thank you

 

Change fuel filter yet? Also use some fuel cleaning additive to clean ur fuel line and injectors

 

If it was always a good cold start and a bad or no start with a warm engine I would suggest a bad engine coolant temp sensor.

But than you said the fuel pump priming was a little intermittent. Than I would think that maybe the capacitors in the ECU fuel pump priming circuit are starting to go bad. This can be a intermittent problem that is worse on rainy days or very humid conditions. The capacitors eventually totally fail and then you will never hear the fuel pump prime and it will be no start.

If you know someone with the same ECU and swap it out and the car starts instantly with no problem that could be the test.

 

update: I've noticed that the car has a creamy mayonaise sludge on the oil cap. I've also noticed white smoke coming out the tail pipe even when its warmed up. I've did research and this could be condensation in the engine right? They said weather changing temperatures and infrequent use of the car can cause this, which is exactly what's been happening recently. I've only driven the car two days ago for a short 5 min drive. but he head gasket was replaced 3 weeks ago professionally. Could this be just condensation from infrequent use and weather changing? It's been hot in the day and pretty cold a night recently, but like 5 days ago it was raining. So should I worry? Thanks for your guys input, i appreciate it

 

Could there be a leak in the headgasket thats causing the sparkplugs to get wet and prevent it from firing? Even though I had it replaced 3 weeks ago

 

No i haven't but I figured if they were bad, then the engine wouldn't start at all right? Since it would be so clogged up

 

I'll try that thank you

 

Mayonnaise in the engine usually points to blown head gasket. Replacing the head gasket won't prevent the mayonnaise from returning. If you want to make sure you don't get any more mayo in your engine you have to resurface the head.

Edit: while you're at it, scrape some of that creamy mayonnaise sludge and put it in a mason jar. Goes great on a turkey sandwich!

 

I had the head resurfaced and milled and the machine shop also

 

In this case, it's a safe bet that it just means they didn't clean the oil cap when they did the job. RonJ asked you three questions, two days ago. You should have answered them by now.

Does your CEL work? It should come on for ~2 seconds when you first turn the key to ON(II), and then turn off. If it doesn't, replace the bulb.
Exactly what brand distributor did you replace the old one with?
Do you expect him to change his mind? (Translation: When was your last full ignition tune up, and was it done with OEM hardware?)

 

Yes i see the cel light working when key is turned to on, and it doesn't stay on. I'll ask the mechanic what brand the distributor is. I'm not sure when the last ignition tune up was done. I'll bring it to my mechanic tomorrow and see what he can do, thanks for your clarification and comment

 

You're going to end up spending a lot more money for lower quality parts (for something that is most likely an easy fix, if you put in the effort to diagnose it) if you take the car to your mechanic, and we will no longer be able to help you. Make sure that's the route you want to take before you give up.

 

Thanks i understand that it's just I'm hesitant with money and have spent a lot. Can you please tell me how to diagnose it? I'm pretty sure it was a used dizzy now.

 

thank you so much for your input

 

Almost any diagnostic tools you'll need, you can rent from any major parts store, which means they're free as long as you return them. One of the few exceptions is what I'm going to direct you to buy - an HEI spark tester. It looks like this



They're only ~$10-$15, which is less than you'd pay a mechanic to actually use the tool. Follow the instructions on the package, and tell us what color your spark is at all four plugs. This will tell us the condition of your ignition system.

While you're there, buy/borrow/rent a fuel pressure testing gauge, and a compression tester. You might end up needing them, depending on how the ignition test goes.

 

I have a 95 dx Tht does the same thing its lose of compression somewhere or u could be getting fuel before fire like mine and what really got me I did my trimming and adjusted my lifters and changed my alternator and my starter and it still does it so I just pop clutch but now it will only run till it gets warm then dies and want crank back for a 30 min or so.so what u could do is check ur rings might be cracked or u need a better crank pulley but sounds like ur in the same boat as I I'm. I'll be honest I'm just goin to do a motor swap on mine because my motor is done and want to upgraded on more power because I have to have my old motor board and all Tht good **** just to get 100 hp out of it.but I have a f22b1 five speed motor and tranny out of a 96 I want to put in my 95 civic coupe dx if possible