Condenser fan won't shut off
Ok here goes. 94' Honda Accord- the condenser fan runs continuously. I pulled the fuse to get it to shut off. The cooling fan fuse was bad ( not sure the reference!). I tried switching out the relay but still have the problem. Any ideas as to what's going on? The engine was completely cold for 3 days and put the fuse back in and the condenser fan ran continuously.
Thanks,
Barry
Thanks,
Barry
Just me but I'd rather refer to them as the drivers side and pass side fan's.
SO is this the drivers side cooling fan that is running at all times? Also the relay for that fan is "clipped"/bolted just behind the rad on the drivers side - two relay together (ac compressor and drivers cooling fan)
SO is this the drivers side cooling fan that is running at all times? Also the relay for that fan is "clipped"/bolted just behind the rad on the drivers side - two relay together (ac compressor and drivers cooling fan)
Ok, which relay did you switch....the one in the fuse box or the one by the drivers side headlight?
Have you had the car for a period of time or is it new to you......if you have had it for a while, was there any recent work done to the car?
Have you had the car for a period of time or is it new to you......if you have had it for a while, was there any recent work done to the car?
i switched the one by the driver side headlight. had the car for awhile. the radiator hose split and the owner replaced it (I'm a friend) and they replaced the battery as well. no other work was performed.
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Not trying to be confusing - two people giving answers/suggestions, I'm pretty sure I know where "tech" is going - until more info from him try this simple test with the volt meter.
The drivers fan relay (Cond Fan) - has four wires. Pull the relay and the key off.
The WHT wire should have 12v
The GRN wire SHOULD NOT have continuity to ground - open
Also - what happens to the fan motor if you unplug the green connector on the housing where the upper hose connects to the engine.
The drivers fan relay (Cond Fan) - has four wires. Pull the relay and the key off.
The WHT wire should have 12v
The GRN wire SHOULD NOT have continuity to ground - open
Also - what happens to the fan motor if you unplug the green connector on the housing where the upper hose connects to the engine.
Yes, we're heading in the same way. 
Continuing with poorman212 instructions regarding testing the wiring that went to the condenser fan relay:
1. With the voltmeter's red lead touching the Yel/Wht wire cavity terminal, and the voltmeter's black lead touching body ground or the negative battery terminal; do you get a voltage reading?
There should be no voltage/power at the Yel/Wht wire with the ignition key in off position. If there is power on the Yel/Wht wire under this condition, the issue may be a short in the wiring (e.g., wire touching another power wire) or an issue with the radiator fan control module.
2. If there was power at the Yel/Wht wire in test #1. With voltmeter's red lead touching the Yel/Wht wire cavity terminal, this time with the voltmeter's black lead touching the Grn wire cavity terminal; do you get a voltage reading?
If you also get a voltage reading on the Yel/Wht under this condition, there is probably a short also on the Grn wire for the ground (-).
These tests are to narrow/isolate the area of the issue(s).

Continuing with poorman212 instructions regarding testing the wiring that went to the condenser fan relay:
1. With the voltmeter's red lead touching the Yel/Wht wire cavity terminal, and the voltmeter's black lead touching body ground or the negative battery terminal; do you get a voltage reading?
There should be no voltage/power at the Yel/Wht wire with the ignition key in off position. If there is power on the Yel/Wht wire under this condition, the issue may be a short in the wiring (e.g., wire touching another power wire) or an issue with the radiator fan control module.
2. If there was power at the Yel/Wht wire in test #1. With voltmeter's red lead touching the Yel/Wht wire cavity terminal, this time with the voltmeter's black lead touching the Grn wire cavity terminal; do you get a voltage reading?
If you also get a voltage reading on the Yel/Wht under this condition, there is probably a short also on the Grn wire for the ground (-).
These tests are to narrow/isolate the area of the issue(s).
Not trying to be confusing - two people giving answers/suggestions, I'm pretty sure I know where "tech" is going - until more info from him try this simple test with the volt meter.
The drivers fan relay (Cond Fan) - has four wires. Pull the relay and the key off.
The WHT wire should have 12v
The GRN wire SHOULD NOT have continuity to ground - open
Also - what happens to the fan motor if you unplug the green connector on the housing where the upper hose connects to the engine.
The drivers fan relay (Cond Fan) - has four wires. Pull the relay and the key off.
The WHT wire should have 12v
The GRN wire SHOULD NOT have continuity to ground - open
Also - what happens to the fan motor if you unplug the green connector on the housing where the upper hose connects to the engine.
Wait, I thought we covered that?
There are two relays bolted just below the drivers headlight. One for the AC compressor and the other is for the driver/left side cooling fan................
There are two relays bolted just below the drivers headlight. One for the AC compressor and the other is for the driver/left side cooling fan................
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