I bought my 96 civic dx SOHC about 2 years ago or so now with 83k on it. As it sits, it has 110,000 original miles, auto trans.

I simply am curious is this nothing for my model of the Honda? I hear many say these things with 100k miles on them are just broken in, is this true? How about mine having the auto trans? Realistically how long does my model last mile wise before the big repairs start popping up?

 

our 2 beaters:

94 civic dx m/t- 297k miles, original engine and trans. clutch has been replaced once, routine maintenance. uses under a quart between oil changes.

90 integra gs m/t- 331k miles, original engine and transmission. replacing tie rod ends, lbj's, axles next weekend. parts appear original, or oem replacements. car even still has original radiator.

 

Wow, great. Know any with the auto trans that high lol? I have had some tell me the auto trans on my model isnt the greatest, not sure why that is claimed, just what I hear.

 

330K original miles on my Auto trans.
1995 DX coupe.
I don't drive like a maniac.I watch the fluid level.I change it every 2 years. Just a drain,not a refill/drain/refill/drive/drain/refill.

 

The car will last for as long as you take proper care of it. Simple as that. At your mileage, you should check the service history and make sure it's gotten the timing belt job it was due. That's belt, pump, and tensioner.

 

This.

 

These cars, an any import 2000 and below, will last as long as you maintain the car. If you just drive it to the ground than yeah it will not last long. Maintenance, part replacement and proper diagnose will give you the longevity of over 250k miles.

I'm telling you this from a guy who maintains his parents car and truck, both imports, both have maintenance done and as well as hitting the 250k mark and still croaking.

 

Overall the replies are true.

You have one weakness to your era of car and that's the auto trans.

96 on is when they tried making changes that have proven folly for the auto.

92-95 will last a good long time, the 96-00 autos are known to deteriorate faster.

One thing that may prolong that is the magnefine 3/8" male inline transmission filters. You will have to add it to your return line after your cooler being your rad isn't likely to be brand new.

Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter

Other than that, the car can go a very long time with the proper upkeep and not beating on it.

Most of us can't help but beat on it periodically, but we know we will be doing more sooner instead of later and take that with the fun of peddle to the metal.

 

Is this something you can install on your own with little mechanical knowledge? or shop install for the non auto mechanically inclined? If so is it pricey? Also I am unsure if the radiator has ever been changed to add on to what you said.

 

I put one on my wife's car without problems but I am not afraid of tools or getting dirty.

It is a one way filter so you have to be careful and find your return line and put the filter on properly or you will do irreversible damage.

It's actually really easy. The filter is 16 bucks USD. And then you need some oil grade hose 3/8" hose from your auto parts store. And a couple of clamps.

I was trying to find a definitive answer to which line is the return on the 96+ models. I know on the 92-95 the long metal hose that goes over the top of the transmission to the back side (firewall side) is the return line.

I suspect the 96 is the same but I would verify that with a helper first.

The easy way to determine is to pull the hose connecting that metal tube to the radiator. Put an oil pitcher under the rubber hose and the metal hose and have a friend crank the car for a second or two. If the car fires, immediately shut it off. Or disconnect the two plugs from the distributor so the car can't start and crank a couple of times. The fluid should come out the rubber hose still connected to the radiator. That would confirm the flow is returning to the transmission from the radiator, through the rubber hose, to the long metal hose to the back of the transmission. If it comes from the metal hose then the flow is opposite and the other short metal hose is the return line.

If that's confusing or doesn't make sense to you, you may wish to see a mechanic.

The filter has an arrow on it indicating fluid flow through the filter.

With the oil rubber hose from the autoparts store you can add the filter between the rubber hose and the metal hose on the return line.

Should look similiar to this:
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d.../#post49683246

 

Thanks for the 2 links tomcat. i just bought a filter and will install it on my 95 hatch.

 

Glad to help.

 

I purchased a magnifine 3/8" and couldn't find a way to install it without kinking the hose on my '97 EX coupe, A/T. I intend to bring to a mechanic to install it across the top of the transmission using a flare tool.

OP: The drivetrains on 6th gen Civics hold up well. It's even more optimal when the car/drivetrain is all stock.
Keep an eye on the coolant and heater hoses and replace them before or as soon as you spot weak spots (often due to engine oil leaks dripping on them..especially under the distributor). Doesn't take much overheating on the aluminum head to cause a blown head-gasket and repalcing coolant/heater hoses every 100K or so is relatively cheap insurance to prevent leaks that could lead to overheating.

Other common issues (may or may not encounter):
1) Window regulators and switches
2) Door lock acctuators
3) Leaking trunks (depends on garaged or not)
4) Clear coat fading

The fact that there's still a bunch of 5th and 6th gens on the road daily is testament to their quality.