WEDNESDAY MORNING.. Now it is a certified no start with fuel spark and compression...

Good luck!!



Now before it all goes to hell, let me say, I bought this car here in Vegas out of a guys garage where it had sat for 12 years..

92 dx hatch auto with 46k on it.
So to sum it up, I have replaced with new components the following...

Timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seal. New fuel pump, did a valve job because the valves would stick open.. So whole top end rebuild from head gasket up..

Brand new battery and axles.. I re flowed the solder on the main relay..

I put a brand new distributor in it, new plugs and wires. Coil cap and rotor all with the new dizzy.

I just today put a new TPS in it too..


The problem is the car will start fine when it is cold, drive fine until it starts to warm up, then buck and surge and try to rev until it gets good and hot.. (Operating temp). Never overheated since head job.. Now it is an auto, but it will cut off if I turn to the left or right. I straighten up the wheel and then fire back up.. Then it goes to a no start condition until it cools off somewhat..

Also I have NO throttle response when hot.. Open the blade at the mani, it Boggs down and if you leave it like that will cut off.. If hot won't restart..

I've popped nine gray hairs out today..
Wanna take a crack at it?

ETA: it's showroom stock.. Looks like you you would find one on the showroom floor in 1992..
A/C is R12. surprisingly it works, I did fill it with a can from a guy I found on CL.. Now it'll freeze you out of there!

ETA2: Performed K test as well. Checked out good. 5 volts in 12 out to ecu, voltage changed when I applied vacuum.

 

CEL?

 

No.

 

You didn't stay whether you if you adjusted the tps, you didn't state if you relearn idle.

 

Was the engine running okay before you replaced any components or did it do this from the moment you bought it?

 

I'd probably try replacing the FITV.

It's supposed to operate by coolant temperature. If it doesn't change when the coolant gets hot, the ECT will report to the ECU that car is warm and try trimming fuel accordingly but the FITV is bypassing so the ECU can't make up for the difference.

 

Tony, adjusted tps to .5 at idle, to 4.5 at wot.

Joey, I did all this from the moment I bought it. It ran fine until I put it up for sale.. About two weeks.

 

Any way to test befor wi just start throwing money at it?

 

Not really, it's a mechanically controlled unit. It uses a wax plug that expands when heated by the coolant. It's the little unit connected to the bottom of the throttle body that has two small coolant hoses to it.

You'll notice it has no electrical plugs.

I'd try the cheap way of swapping it with a junk yard pulled FITV.

The car sat for 12 years, hard to say what kind of corrosion happened in it.

 

Ok I'll do the crawl in the morning to see if I can locate one, although I was up there and didn't see any throttle bodies a few days ago.. Will report back tomorrow on whether I find one and install it or order one.. Keep checking back..

 

Coil in distributor is going out

 

OP says he put in a brand new distributor tho.

 

Coil didn't help, returned coil, cool and ignite together were 165, new dizzy was 190.. Eliminated coil, cps, and igniter..

 

Unplug the O2 sensor and drive car to see if problem is eliminated.

 

May not be what you need cause they have another two for over $250 each, so double check.

CARQUEST by Intermotor Idle Air Control Valve 31075: Advance Auto Parts

If it's is what you need and you do want to buy it, add something to the order to get it over $100 and use promo code trt41. It will deduct $40 off the order.

 

Already been there.. Unplugged every sensor.. Tps iac o2 and the one on the number one runner.. Looks like a black round disc..

All of those were unplugged.. Problem still existed..

I can usually fix cars.. It's rare I get to this point..

But keep on trying!! Cuz I'm all ears at this point!

 

Oh yeah, this is a good possibility too. Once the car warms up, it looks to the O2 sensor for fuel trim info.

 

Said 89.99 at my local store? Hmmm.. I'm not sure what you mean? But I'm here so please post back?

 

And did what? Slow way down and add more details.

 

Sir, please see post above your that one^^

Already did that with car hot. (Op temp)

 

Does the CEL work?

What post are you talking about?

 

I unplugged the tps, problem didn't change
Unplugged IAC beside TPS, problem didn't change
The black round disc(not sure of name) on number one runner, unplugged, problem still existed.
The white sensor below that one ^ white, unplugged it too.. No change..

And finally unplugged the O2 sensor and no change.

At this point all five were unplugged, and it still didn't change any symptoms..


ALSO MUST POINT OUT I DID THE K TEST AS WELL!! Forgot to add that in first post. Map sensor worked.. 5 in 12 out, voltage moved when I applied vacuum.

Will add that in first post.

 

All you are saying is "no change". What test did you do to conclude "no change". Details.

 

Ron, yessir, the CEL works, it comes on at position 2 for two seconds while the fuel pump primes, then the relay clicks and it cuts off.

The post above Tomcat where I say I unplugged the o2 sensor. Then he says oh each check the o2 sensor after your post.

 

Read post #23.