Drive home the stud, drive home the car.. It is my plan that, after this hole gets secured with some torque, to then continue engine reassembly, and see the result. Substantial flushing of both coolant and engine.. For now, though, I am focused on the head stud, specifically.

The stud itself arrived late yesterday, and I chronicled my first attempt to drive it in, and the result, here:


I would like to try again to drive it down in there. It seems there is a 5mm hex or allen driver, on either end of ARP's stud. I also ordered the nut and washer.. Yes. I can see how this then "pulls" the head down. Got that.

It appears the hex or allen driver is used to thread it in?

Right now, I am attempting not only to re-locate my 5mm driver, but to devise a way to have it strong enough to not snap off when trying to turn it in, and down.

If I have to, If I HAVE to, I will go out and un-secure the head bolts, and take the head back off.. Then I can smooth the hole from the bottom, and place back the 1 stud/9 bolts. It is my hope that there is one more try I can make, before I do that.

I'm in a focus zone, so.. Is there maybe a better way to get a vertical tool to place in that hex pattern? ARP stud experts and users, how do you do it?

Thank you.

I am also regrouping. Removed the Time-Sert. It didn't want to work..

This thread takes place AFTER my lunch run..

 

Take your head off. You might as well get it cleaned/hot tanked before you go any further.

As far as putting the stud in:
HOW TO REALLY TORQUE ARP HEAD STUDS!!! Straight from ARP - D-series.org

See post 4 /\

 

Post 4:



^^ The instructions do, in fact, say to take the head off.

Maybe its stupid to try to get them down through the head..

I can clean up the head I have, because, if the head fails for some reason, I have located another one. I need to see if this one can pass muster, though.

So. What I'm thinking is, that, I should go outside, and unsecure the 9 bolts, it will probably take me about 20 minutes, if that..

 

It is stupid.

 

The head is off the engine

 

That last part

 

 

You see that bolt in the front of your block? Like mid way down? If you take that out ALL of the fluid in the coolant jacket will come out.

 

Oh and all those shavings you blew out....think about that hole they were right in front of...how many more fell down into there...and where that galley leads to....

 

Well, there goes your piston rings.

 

I still have a little more to go...

I work tonight, so, the head is in a box, all bolts, and I get to probably continue tomorrow.

I think that once I smooth the head hole, the ARP stud can go in.. I must verify it will slide smoothly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkAlWCTbBHQ

I will look for it. It's probably right in front of me. Sounds helpful!

I actually was going to take the oil drain bolt off the pan, and pour oil down it.

To flush out the stuff

Why?

 

Did you spray your whole head with the copper coating?

Also, if the stud fits through the threaded hole in the head, just leave it as it or else you're going to mess up that hole even more.

 

needs more copper.

 

Oh boy.....

 

Hahahah thanks for the laugh. You may want to relocate where you put the cylinder head and put something absorbent to soak up the oil. You wouldn't want your cat walking on that then licking its paws. Get some boxes from work and put them on the ground and keep everything clean and organized. Don't spill any coolant either and hose it away if you do. Clean the garage and organize your stuff. Makes all the difference.

 

So you have literally wasted months now and arguably the engine itself over something that many of us have pleaded with you to do and by your own words will take no more than twenty minutes. Good job genius. So what actually changed your mind to make you finally give in and listen to reason?

 

ARP Head Stud install instructions.

 

Got it, he won't listen unless it's actually stated in some form of instructions. There's absolutely no reason for me to offer any advice any longer. Good luck W95!! I'll be watching from the sidelines permanently from here on out with my

 

Hey guys. I slept until 11PM, am at work now.. I can check all that was said in the morning.

I might rent a drill to smooth that hole. I think I might be there forever with the file.

Well.. it did become absolutely clear that the stud wasn't going to go in through the head.. the written instructions confirmed that.. so, I realized upon seeing and doing that I had to sacrifice whatever great seal my HG job may have had, to get the engine to seal right.

Yes.

Can post in the morning. Thank you all..

Maybe I can thread the stud UP, from the bottom, and then place it on the block to thread in like a normal one, once the threads to go in the block hole are flush with the bottom. Since it is also the first bolt in the sequence..

 

Stupid all over again....

 

How.

Soon, I'll attempt getting the stud seated correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a45jaKAVLgc

I am renting a drill.. going to make it a thru hole again.

Now, to figure out how to "torque down" the stud with a hex wrench. If I just make it really tight, dipped in oil..

 

The only thing you should be using a drill for is to time sert that block before you REALLY **** something up.


I'll even offer you the cheapest possible solution. ONE TIME.

Instead of paying $450 for the honda kit (Timesert PN 7011) Pay me $250 and I'll drive up from Baltimore Sunday OR Monday and do it for you. I already own the kit. The threads on that block ARE fucked up WHEN the HG fails it will be at that stud.

ALSO get hex bits for your torque wrench, dummy LOL

 

You don't torque down the stud. You torque the nut on the stud. The nut is what apply's the clamping force.

 

I thought I remembered the directions from APR saying hand tight. BUT it wouldn't hurt anything to torque them to some stupid low setting so they're all seated the same IMO.

This whole time I've been thinking he was drilling the stripped threads out of the block but he's been talking about drilling threads out of the head... which isn't threaded so now I'm really confused. I'm trying to help him via PM but I'll probably end up there on monday LOL

 

He tapped the head when he tapped the block so now that hole in the head is threaded.