Cam Advice?
Ok, I'm looking for cams for my '90 bone stock 3 door LS.
I'm only looking to gain 10-20%, but in the mid-range and bottom end.
This car is quick, but only above 4500 rpms.
Anybody with experience with various brands?
Thanks!
One other detail: 168K miles, but in very good condition.
.
I'm only looking to gain 10-20%, but in the mid-range and bottom end.
This car is quick, but only above 4500 rpms.
Anybody with experience with various brands?
Thanks!
One other detail: 168K miles, but in very good condition.
.
Neither, normally aspirated. I'm sure I'll end up including a header, intake and a better 66-68 mm throttle body, but not all at once.
I've got a 2" exhaust (magnaflow high-flow Cat and muffler), but I'm sure it'll need a new flange on the front. I'm out in the middle of nowhere and have to go 100 miles just for an alignment. I am moving back to a real city in a year, or so.
Really, I'm only aiming at 10-20% increase, hopefully in the bottom and mid-range,....at most.
I've got a 2" exhaust (magnaflow high-flow Cat and muffler), but I'm sure it'll need a new flange on the front. I'm out in the middle of nowhere and have to go 100 miles just for an alignment. I am moving back to a real city in a year, or so.
Really, I'm only aiming at 10-20% increase, hopefully in the bottom and mid-range,....at most.
Neither, normally aspirated. I'm sure I'll end up including a header, intake and a better 66-68 mm throttle body, but not all at once.
I've got a 2" exhaust (magnaflow high-flow Cat and muffler), but I'm sure it'll need a new flange on the front. I'm out in the middle of nowhere and have to go 100 miles just for an alignment. I am moving back to a real city in a year, or so.
Really, I'm only aiming at 10-20% increase, hopefully in the bottom and mid-range,....at most.
I've got a 2" exhaust (magnaflow high-flow Cat and muffler), but I'm sure it'll need a new flange on the front. I'm out in the middle of nowhere and have to go 100 miles just for an alignment. I am moving back to a real city in a year, or so.
Really, I'm only aiming at 10-20% increase, hopefully in the bottom and mid-range,....at most.
If you want to stay with the ls id recomend focusing on other mods besides internals like cams when you dont even have nearly enough supporting mods to even think of getting aftermarket cams. Get the head flowing better before you put in cams like intake manifold, tb, intake, header ect..
Have you even thaught of tuning it?
A n.a LS is a waist of time imo.
I've know it may not be a good idea before doing the header and intake. I'll have to wait a year or two until after I move. I'm not going to weld the new flange on the exhaust, and there's no one in this area I'd trust to do it.
From what I can tell, there's no header that's a direct fit.
From what I can tell, there's no header that's a direct fit.
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I've looked a bit further, and I'm not seeing the type product I want. I agree, It would be mostly fruitless with out doing the intake and exhaust....and some valve train work, etc.
The other side is, I'm just not going to pull an engine that could have 100k miles left in it.
I may however get a JDM now. Seems some of these obd-1 or obd-2 B series engines are going to get harder to find as time goes on.
I don't like turbo chargers, but have seen what appears to be a great super-charger.
I was looking for a simple way of getting a little more out of the engine. Even tuning is not an answer with my obd-0. I need to convert to obd-1, or 2.
I might do that next.
I have seen where you can send your ECU to "JET Performance" and they'll send it back modified....I don't know if that's any good or worth it....seems like upgrade it myself would be more effective.
I also just realized I've already done part of the conversion by installing the oside/bosch (280cc) injectors and the resistor delete.
.
The other side is, I'm just not going to pull an engine that could have 100k miles left in it.
I may however get a JDM now. Seems some of these obd-1 or obd-2 B series engines are going to get harder to find as time goes on.
I don't like turbo chargers, but have seen what appears to be a great super-charger.
I was looking for a simple way of getting a little more out of the engine. Even tuning is not an answer with my obd-0. I need to convert to obd-1, or 2.
I might do that next.
I have seen where you can send your ECU to "JET Performance" and they'll send it back modified....I don't know if that's any good or worth it....seems like upgrade it myself would be more effective.
I also just realized I've already done part of the conversion by installing the oside/bosch (280cc) injectors and the resistor delete.
.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; Nov 4, 2015 at 07:09 PM.
These are some suggestions, and my .02:
If you have $$ you could buy another motor an build that and keep your current motor until your done with it.
I would highly suggest against a supercharger for the pure fact that our engines are small and doesn't put out that much power and superchargers suck engine power simply to produce engine power.
If you are sticking with N/A focus on internals/basic bolt ons before seeking more performance. And converting to OBD-1 isn't hard there are plenty of write ups detailing how to step by step.
Also, get a little more specific with your goals/end result i.e. make 150whp, N/A vs. FI, Swap vs. Stock
Finally, have you looked into other stuff on the car i.e. worn suspension parts, old hoses, cooling upgrades, etc?
If you have $$ you could buy another motor an build that and keep your current motor until your done with it.
I would highly suggest against a supercharger for the pure fact that our engines are small and doesn't put out that much power and superchargers suck engine power simply to produce engine power.
If you are sticking with N/A focus on internals/basic bolt ons before seeking more performance. And converting to OBD-1 isn't hard there are plenty of write ups detailing how to step by step.
Also, get a little more specific with your goals/end result i.e. make 150whp, N/A vs. FI, Swap vs. Stock
Finally, have you looked into other stuff on the car i.e. worn suspension parts, old hoses, cooling upgrades, etc?
Yes, I've gone thru the rest of the car a fair bit.
master relay
coil, ingniters, plugs&cap&wires
2" exhaust front to back
magnaflow cat and muffler
Bosch 280cc injectors
Most recent work.
Koyo rear hubs
Many misc. nuts and bolts, acura suspension
Skunk2 rear alpha LCAs.
All 4 calipers, rebuilt OEM
All 4, EBC stage 1 rotors+pads
KYB Excell G rear struts
Ozaka front coil springs
Outer tie-rod ends
KYB AGX front struts
Most silicone Vac lines
...more
I've got the other bushings on hand, but they aren't needed, now.
At this point, I know every square inch of it and have maybe a couple other maintenance issues left, but not much.
This car is in quite good condition considering its age. It was owned by a college professor (one owner) that took care of it well, but for a couple hail storms.
.
master relay
coil, ingniters, plugs&cap&wires
2" exhaust front to back
magnaflow cat and muffler
Bosch 280cc injectors
Most recent work.
Koyo rear hubs
Many misc. nuts and bolts, acura suspension
Skunk2 rear alpha LCAs.
All 4 calipers, rebuilt OEM
All 4, EBC stage 1 rotors+pads
KYB Excell G rear struts
Ozaka front coil springs
Outer tie-rod ends
KYB AGX front struts
Most silicone Vac lines
...more
I've got the other bushings on hand, but they aren't needed, now.
At this point, I know every square inch of it and have maybe a couple other maintenance issues left, but not much.
This car is in quite good condition considering its age. It was owned by a college professor (one owner) that took care of it well, but for a couple hail storms.
.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; Nov 5, 2015 at 03:51 AM.
I've seen a few of these in obd-1.....around $2400 with LSD 5psd trans in JDM sales. 30 to 60k miles.
B18C1
I may get one in the next few months and keep it until it becomes necessary.
B18C1
- Found in:1994–2001 USDM Integra GS-R (DC2)2dr (DB8)4dr
-
- Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
- Compression: 10.1.:1
- Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
- Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
- Rod Length: 140.0 mm (5.5 in)
- Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.58
- Power: 170 hp (127 kW) @ 7600 rpm
- Torque: 128 lb·ft (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
- Redline: 8000 rpm (Fuel Cut-off @ 8100 rpm)
- Secondary Runners Open @ 6000rpm
- VTEC Engagement @ 4400rpm
-
I may get one in the next few months and keep it until it becomes necessary.
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