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So on my new purchase, 99 civic, it has a b18c motor. The oil light came on the other day, I of course revved it three or four times lol, and the valve train noise went away. Well now it won't build pressure, NONE. I pulled the pan today to look for sludge there was none. It was surprisingly clean on the inside. Anyway I pulled the relief spring and plunger sanded it and stuck it back in and still no pressure. So I'm going to replace the pump and the timing belt water pump tensioner etc. I've seen it mentioned to just buy the gears and not the housing? Who sells all this stuff? I dont want to go eBay I would like to get one of those Kevlar gates timing belts too, who has fast shipping? I have a account with summits wholesale department.
Anything I missed? No pressure what so ever at the test port and the bypass seems to be free moving. Any thing I missed
You revved an engine. With the oil light on. Are you daft? At this point, you very well may have collapsed your bearings, which will stop an oil pressure from getting through. Hope you're ready to rebuild the motor.
"Collapsed" bearings....lol. So I ordered a Honda oil pump,water pump, tension pulley, and one of those blue Kevlar belts, weird that it would just suddenly lose oil pressure like that. I haven't driven this car yet but I really trying to get it squared away before first snow. I had all intentions of putting an lsd in the tranny but this is holding me back
To answer a previous question, yes I revved the motor with the light on, guess what happened?oil pressure came up and the valve train noise went away. It ran quietly for a half hour after. This time the pressure didn't come up so I pulled it apart to investigate. When the parts show up I guess well see what's up. I went and grabbed a spare motor just in case. Lol
I once had a oil pressure sending unit go bad on my 98 Integra B18. I guess the diaphragm was bad and the check oil light would come on at idle but go off if you revved the engine. The sending unit was located just above the oil filter and if you removed the oil filter it was more accessible. A new non-OEM unit was equally bad. I got a OEM one and it cured the problem.
OP, you may have signed up for an engine rebuild or replacement. Revving it with low oil or pressure was not the best thing. Lack of lubrication can do it in quickly.
OP, can you verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? Or you just aren't getting any?
Please keep in mind that the oil pump does not by itself create oil pressure. The oil "hitting" for lack of a better word, does. Imagine partially placing your thumb over the end of an open and running garden hose.
I went through this on another vehicle.. First engine, after verifying no oil pressure was being created, was toast. The second engine was able to create and hold oil pressure, as normal.
Lol I'm just hoping my bearings didn't "collapse". And yes I cranked the motor to trouble shoot the problem. As a matter of fact we bumped it over with no oil pan on it to make sure gerotor gears weren't shattered. This ain't my first rodeo I was just looking for Honda specific issues to look out for ( oil galley plugs that fall out, casting shift, loose soft plugs, maybe some type of weird bypass or oil system issue specific to Honda) I have determined that my bearings aren't collapsed so I'll wait till my new parts show up
No the pickup is fine I have the pan off. Parts did start showing up. I got the Kevlar belt and the OE water pump and tensioner. The good oil pump gears won't be here till next week so I gotta wait.....
Ok so I popped the pump out tonight. I was expecting total distruction of the gerotor gears but they were fine, but there were some pretty sizable scores in the housing.
Cars all put back together new blue timing belt, water pump, tensioner, oil pump housing ported and shimmed of course and those heavy duty gears from toda. Guess I wasn't a victim of "collapsed" bearings after all. Guess no one wAnts to hear I started it with the header off and no valve cover too, lol. Thanks anyway for the people that gave positive info
Naa just ran it like that till I saw the oil galleys start pumping oil then shut it down. It seems like everyone is so serious on here. I got this car to have fun playing w cars again and kinda get me back to where I started. Low buck with not one f@&k given! I might take the tranny apart this weekend and put a closed differential in it since I noticed it dosnt have one in it
well...being as this is a technical section of the forum. we are serious about fixing ****. would you rather a bunch of people give you a bunch of b.s. answers and have more laughs while you purposely do what they said?
You really are an idiot, aren't you? Do you need me to give you an explanation of how oil works in conjunction with bearings and crank journals? Your bearing and crank should never actually touch. There is a thin film of oil between the two. When you run your engine dry, that film of oil goes away, and your crank makes direct contact with the bearing. It collapses onto the bearing.
......it friction welds itself, or scores, or seizes. Save the Internet bullying for the 15 year old kids. Keep your hot tech for the 5 page throw out bearing threads.
From what I could tell it must have got some trash in it. It scored the housing in a very minor way,at least for what I'm used to in v8 land. I have pics up of the scoring that I'm guessing wouldn't let it prime and build oil pressure. The second I cranked it with the new pump perfect oil pressure. Contrary to what some of the other comments here it has perfect oil pressure now
Oh I'm sure this car was beaten mercilessly and not maintained as it should. I'm not really worried since the whole car only cost as much as the cam and lifters in my Racecar lol