So I have a 94 Accord wagon and it doesnt look like the radiator fan is coming on. Also the temperature gauage on the car is no longer coming up to the halfway mark only 1/3 mark, as had I broken the single wire sensor and replaced it with another. I did test the fan and it works via 12V as well as jumpering the connector for the 2 pin on the radiator hose neck, but other than that the fan doesnt seem to come on after 15 minutes of letting the engine run. Probably non-related but if I let the car sit for a week or so, it becomes extremely hard to start. It takes 10 or 15 times of cranking requiring a priming each time. I did clean the IACV and that seemed to alleviate the problem for a day or so. So i checked it again and its clean. Not sure where to start from there.

 

Should I make this 2 different threads,

 

In my experience from all of my Honda 1/3 is a healthy place to be as far as temperature. Generally if I am hitting 1/2 something is not optimal. if I hit 3/4 something is definitely wrong and at 4/4 I'm hoping to get lucky and not replace he head.


I was having the same issue for a while on my 94. I had it jumpered for about a year before finally fixing it properly. If the car is cooling well enough the fans may not come on. I ended up installing an additional temperature gauge to keep a better eye on it.


So the fans do run when jumpered? Are you jumpering the connector on the thermostat housing? Do the fans come on after shutting the car off? Mine did not. I replaced both of the Sensors and checked the wiring and the fans but still could not get it to work. Checked the fuses as well. It turned out later on that one of the new sensors was bad. Very frustrating.


The car struggling to start could be a lot of things. Just from describing your symptoms its possible that you are getting air in the fuel lines, maybe there is a small leak somewhere. A fuel pressure gauge may help you determine the problem. I believe if you crank it and it doesn't start you should be able to pull out one of your spark plugs right away and smell fuel. If not maybe its not getting the fuel right away. The fuel filter on the accord is in a tight spot, I ended up replacing mine with one of the earls in line ones so that that it would be easier to access the next time.

 

I have jumpered it at the thermostat housing. (I have ordered a new thermostat in the mean time so when i do the timing belt, I will just do the thermo since I will need to add coolent for the water pump.) I have plans to change the fuel filter since at the same time I want to clean the EGR passages on the intake (Kill 2 birds with 1 stone since both are fuel related.)

 

So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the EGR passages (They were plugged solid both on the intake and the EGR chamber) No change to my hard/no start. I have not addressed the fan switch yet, however my situation is where the car will crank if I prime the pump and dies, but will not even crank and die if I try starting after a failed start. I have a video here of that.


Not sure where to trouble shoot from there.

 

IN addition to this, If I recall correctly, I had a 92 Honda civic that did the same thing, turned out to be a relay in the passenger side kick panel, I'm sure yours is in a different location if equipped..
Also, Have you checked your crank sensor?
If i recall correctly, a BAD CKS will cause an engine kill after 4 seconds. .

 

1. Check for the ignition switch relay recall on this model, I just had it on my 97 accord and I dont remember the symptoms. But it involved no-starts and died randomly while driving. Do some research on the web. It's easy to test by slowly turning the key and looking at the dash lights. The honda dealer fixed it for me for free (bring some donuts).

2. When it's not starting, can you feather the gas pedal to keep it going? if so I would look again at IACV related stuff. There's a sticky either on this site or another accord forum online with more info on that.

3. If all that fails, get some brake cleaner and spray it into the intake as a mist when youre cranking it. If it runs off the brake clean, then you have a fuel problem (the brake clean is a substitute for the fuel). Next step is a fuel pressure check with a gauge.

4. next, Then check for spark. I like those testers you can get from the auto part store that plug into the spark plug wires. set it to 30,000, and check for spark.

5. this probably wont apply to you, but you can check the valve timing by looking at the crank tdc mark and the cam tdc mark to ensure it hasnt jumped a cog on the timing belt

 

Well the no start has been sorted. It was a failing ECU. I replaced it and opened the old. Blown capacitor (Fish smell greeted me upon opening the case) Big mess on the board. Apparently unlike the civic which gives you a solid cel of death, this one doesnt do that.