My sedan died on freeway today. I was doing 70, then car began to bog then shut off.
Towed it home, and i immediately "knew" it was the distributor. Well i changed out th rotor, then the icm, then finally the coil, and nothing. I switched out the spark plug wires, nothing. I switched out the main relay, nothing. Fuel pump is priming. I did check my spark and it was orange so its weak. Could it still be the distributor?

 

Starting Problems

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

Timing belt broke???

 

The timing belt is good, i took off oil cap while i had someone crank the car, and i saw the camshaft rotating. I do smell alot of fuel while attempting to start, main relay clicks, and the pump primes. Before the car stopped on me, i did notice 2 of the 4 injectors were leaking at the seals...

 

Double check coil, ICM and ECU codes. Also check wires and plugs.
Should pop or sputter if your getting some spark and fuel.
Out of all the years i owned my Dx the only few things that went wrong were the
cap and rotor, plug wires and main relay.
Unplug the fuel injectors, air out/clean out the cylinders, verify all 4 plugs are firing.
Reinstall and try starting with starting fluid.

 

My icm and coil are within spec. So that rules that part of the distributor out. So i have spark, fuel... idk maybe i lost compression . I can see the pistons of cyl 2 and 3, but 1 and 4 are covered in blackness. My manual also says that leaky injectors can cause a no start as well. So i think maybe 2 cylinders were running too lean or too rich. How do i check for bent valves without removing the head? Compression test?
Also i turned the motor by hand, and in one spot it takes more force to rotate ( *UP mark on cam @ 9 o'clock)

 

Compression test will tell you if a valve is not shutting all the way.

If I were you try the simplest solutions first.
Have done me very well in a lot of repairs.

Check mostly what I posted.
If cylinders are carboned up, likely so are the plugs.
Just verify they all spark and are clean.
If a cylinder is hydrolocked it can create a tight spot when turning by hand.
Are you getting any ecu codes?
Did you try unplugging the injectors, and trying with starting fluid??

You should be getting a sputter at minimum.

 

I'm guessing the fuel pump went to crap or the fuel filter is clogged. Possibly even the air filter is clogged?

 

Yeah kinda weird. I do still have leaky injectors. I unplugged the injectors, and sprayed starting fluid into the manifold. When i was cranking it, it didnt start, and then did like a backfire, a puff of smoke came out through the throttle body... what does that mean?

 

If it started at all with starter fluid and doesn't without it, then it probably is a fuel issue. On the other hand, just because your timing belt is there doesn't mean it didn't skip a tooth. Take off the front cover and check the timing marks.

 

No it didnt start with the fluid. Fuel is entering the chambers, allmy spark plugs had fuel on the threaded parts. I just checked the timing marks, and with the crank at tdc, the 7 o'clock mark on the cam gear is a little off from the plastic cover mark . Probably is off half a tooth, which is weird, i just smogged it like less than2 weeks and it confirmed the ingition timing at 16°

 

Bought a compression test tool kit from harbor. Cyl 1- 155, cyl 2-150, cyl 3- 155, cyl 4 -130. Does this indicate a valve problem?

 

From my standpoint im going to say you have plenty of compression, more then enough to run the car.
Cylinder 4 may be bent, way out of adjustment, bad adjustment or reading

If you have slipped a tooth, ect it should/would still run, just like ****.
I think i would be leaning for ignition related/ecu.
Check the ecu codes if any. Report back.

Just to double check its not fuel causing a flooding type result you could unplug the fuel pump/ depin the wire.
but out of all the problems ive seen in Honda's i would say its ignition.

 

There isnt any ecu codes sadly. Could it be my ignition switch? Ive had problems with it in the past, but idk much info on if it can make the car shut off and not want to start.

 

B

 

It is not the ignition switch.

 

Update:
I got it started. It was the rotor, swapped it out and it started lol.
Whats weird tho, another issue, is that when i turned ignition to 2nd position, the lights and cel came on, stayed solid, no fuel pump priming. I waited a few seconds, then the main relay clicked, pump primed, Then i started the car and it turned on. Can this " delay" be linked to my ignition switch * sstupid??
Also sometimes my stereo wont get power till i wiggle wires around under column.