B18C-R JDM Timing Belt
Hi,
I just finished chaning the belt on my '96 spec Integra Type R and am worrying if I got the belt tight enough - I have the Acura Integra manual and I followed the procedure from that.
Please see the video below - Is is normal to have that slight amount of slack between the cam pulleys as one rotates round and overcomes valve spring tension?
Thanks for looking.
I just finished chaning the belt on my '96 spec Integra Type R and am worrying if I got the belt tight enough - I have the Acura Integra manual and I followed the procedure from that.
Please see the video below - Is is normal to have that slight amount of slack between the cam pulleys as one rotates round and overcomes valve spring tension?
Thanks for looking.
I wouldnt be too comfortable with that slack there. That kind of slack between the cam gears could mean the cams wont rotate equally when the slack happens. Could also slip a tooth then youll have real problems. It could also just mean that you are losing tension in between compression because you are rotating by hand.
Did you take the spark plugs out to make it easier to rotate?
Have you rotated the crank by hand several times (so the belt does several revolutions) and checked the tensioner?
Are you sure you put the belt on in the correct sequence to limit slack?
Its been a while since I installed a TB but I wouldnt be happy with that.
Did you take the spark plugs out to make it easier to rotate?
Have you rotated the crank by hand several times (so the belt does several revolutions) and checked the tensioner?
Are you sure you put the belt on in the correct sequence to limit slack?
Its been a while since I installed a TB but I wouldnt be happy with that.
Nope. Doesn't say in the manual to remove the plugs so I didn't. The car runs fine by the way.
Yes, I followed the manual to the letter. :S
In fact, I took the belt off several times and re-did everything. Brand new OE tensioner & tensioner spring too.
I have heard some people say they don't like using the stock tensioner spring becuase they don't get the belt tight enough. Well, if it's good enough for Honda to use then that is good enough for me.
Yes, I followed the manual to the letter. :S
In fact, I took the belt off several times and re-did everything. Brand new OE tensioner & tensioner spring too.
I have heard some people say they don't like using the stock tensioner spring becuase they don't get the belt tight enough. Well, if it's good enough for Honda to use then that is good enough for me.
Well, don't rely on just the spring's tension is what I have to say. I did add more force up in the tensioner while tightening when I did mine. I hope not too much because it can cause bearings to wear prematurely.
Nope. Doesn't say in the manual to remove the plugs so I didn't. The car runs fine by the way.
Yes, I followed the manual to the letter. :S
In fact, I took the belt off several times and re-did everything. Brand new OE tensioner & tensioner spring too.
I have heard some people say they don't like using the stock tensioner spring becuase they don't get the belt tight enough. Well, if it's good enough for Honda to use then that is good enough for me.
Yes, I followed the manual to the letter. :S
In fact, I took the belt off several times and re-did everything. Brand new OE tensioner & tensioner spring too.
I have heard some people say they don't like using the stock tensioner spring becuase they don't get the belt tight enough. Well, if it's good enough for Honda to use then that is good enough for me.
I like to turn the crank pulley until the valve springs build a max tension against my hand. Then while steadily holding pressure on the crank with my ratchet, I tighten/torque the tensioner bolt. It's tricky to operate two ratchets at once on opposite sides of the fender, but it definitely isolates all the slack to the tensioner's side of the belt.
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