trouble tighting timing belt
#1
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trouble tighting timing belt
I just replaced cam seals and cam plug. I put everything back together and started putting the timing belt back on. I followed all the steps in the haynes manual it's at TDC and everythings how it should be but when i go to tighten it one side gets tight and the other side stays lose. I tried starting over about 5 times and it just does the same thing. Does anyone know what the problem might be. Thanks
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Re: (^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO)
okay i put the belt on with everything at TDC turned the crank pulley 3 teeth turns counter clockwise and tightened the tensioner bolt. Say the front of belt (closest to the front of the car) is tight then the back of the belt will be lose or if the back is tight then the front is lose. I have gone through these steps at least five times and it does the same thing. So I can't figure out how to get both sides of the belt even so they are both tight.
#5
Re: trouble tighting timing belt (jvonb)
I just did the belt on a B16A I am swapping into a 91 Integra and had the same problem. What I ended up doing is:
Set crank to #1 TDC, pointer on crank on dot on oil pump
verify rotor on dist is pointing to #1 pole on cap.
Instead of indexing cam sprockets to where "UP" stamped is exactly at top, I noticed that there were two paint dots on the sprockets, instead of the cast i mark the Haynes manual mentions. I saw that this was the way belt was installed originally. (This is a JDM motor with 41k miles, i don't think it was ever changed before). Doing this make the intae sprocket "up mark slightly counterclockwise of 12 o clock (11:55). But this is the way it was. I had tried to put it staight up, but had the same problem you did. I am asssuming that this is a common problem, and that is why it had the paint marks.
Next, make sure the tensioner is loose. I pulled up on the belt to get the slack out and had to put a wrench on the intake cam sprocket and turn it SLIGHTLY clockwise. I then slipped the belt on, and let off on the wrench. this let the cam go back to where it was with the paint marks pointing at each other. I guess this gets the slack out of the belt.
I then pulled gently to get the slack out between the cam sprockets and slipped the belt on the exhaust sprocket.
I tightened the tensioner and turned it through several rotations and it always came back to #1 TDC with no slack.
Try this, but don't yank on the belt too hard as you will disturb the position of the crank. Let me know how it works out.
Set crank to #1 TDC, pointer on crank on dot on oil pump
verify rotor on dist is pointing to #1 pole on cap.
Instead of indexing cam sprockets to where "UP" stamped is exactly at top, I noticed that there were two paint dots on the sprockets, instead of the cast i mark the Haynes manual mentions. I saw that this was the way belt was installed originally. (This is a JDM motor with 41k miles, i don't think it was ever changed before). Doing this make the intae sprocket "up mark slightly counterclockwise of 12 o clock (11:55). But this is the way it was. I had tried to put it staight up, but had the same problem you did. I am asssuming that this is a common problem, and that is why it had the paint marks.
Next, make sure the tensioner is loose. I pulled up on the belt to get the slack out and had to put a wrench on the intake cam sprocket and turn it SLIGHTLY clockwise. I then slipped the belt on, and let off on the wrench. this let the cam go back to where it was with the paint marks pointing at each other. I guess this gets the slack out of the belt.
I then pulled gently to get the slack out between the cam sprockets and slipped the belt on the exhaust sprocket.
I tightened the tensioner and turned it through several rotations and it always came back to #1 TDC with no slack.
Try this, but don't yank on the belt too hard as you will disturb the position of the crank. Let me know how it works out.
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