So I recently installed an engine on my Accord but I didn’t know how to correctly install the distributor as far as timing. Regardless, I installed put the distributor on however and the engine idles super crazy. It’s not stable at all. I don’t know if the engine eventually dies on its own because I shut it off pretty quickly, thinking I might mess it up.


So first thing that comes to mind is timing from my distributor. The engine was running previously and was told by the previous owner that the engine ran fine except for an oil leak from the oil pan. Another thing that comes to mind of why it’s idling like crazy is my header. I am missing two nuts on it that connects to the rest of the exhaust, so it has a pretty bad leak and probably why it sounds rough. A friend told me that couldn’t be it, still I’m not sure.

One of my questions is regarding the timing. The procedures I keep reading on how to set the distributor correctly involves starting up the engine and leaving it on until it’s warm. I’m so worried that if I attempt to leave it on for much longer than what I already do (like 5 seconds) I can mess something up bad. So how do I go about adjusting the timing? Do I just unbolt the distributor and move it to see how it goes until I find a position for it that makes the engine more stable and then attempt to time it correctly? Can I do damages to the engine (timing belt) if I leave it on with the really bad idle? Could that exhaust leak cause that bad of idling? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

anyone?

 

If you removed the distributor from the engine, when putting it back you have to put it back the right way. The shaft is able to go on two ways, one way is the correct way if it's really easy to slide it in, the other way you really have to jam it in there to get it to fit and that is the incorrect way. The end of the shaft is offset and not symmetrical if you look at it so it's extremely hard to put it 180 degrees off.

After putting it on correctly you have to set the ignition timing after warming the car completely up and jumpering the service connector for accords up to the year 1995. For 96 and up accords you don't need to adjust the ignition timing as the ecu does it on its own. There are howto's on youtube for how to set the ignition timing.

Regarding the leak, if the leak is upstream of the oxygen sensor then the leak will cause issues until it is fixed which it sounds like it's doing.

 

Thank you holmesnmanny. You're right on how there's only two ways to put the distributor on and it's hard to put it on the wrong way. I know it’s not off 180 degrees cause my understanding is that if it were on the wrong way (180 degrees off) it wouldn’t turn on. I will look in to the timing videos and see what I can do. Thank you again.

Also, I was told last night by an experienced mechanic that the distributor position shouldn't affect the idle. He says there's probably a vacuum line that needs to be attached. He told me that the exhaust couldn't cause such a bad idling issue either. I feel like I am close to getting it running right though.

 

I found out my resistor box wasn't plugged in all the way. After I did that the idling got a bit better but its still surging. I get CEL codes but its hard to tell which ones because it seems to want to turn off at times and flashes very very quickly. So what I did was try to get the codes through the plug on the passenger side but I only get a flashing ABS light. The CEL just stays on the whole time

 

One more thing I've realized, and what I think will solve my problem, is that I have very low coolant. When I started the engine I had filled it with just enough so that I could finish filling it when on. I never got to add more since the engine sounded so bad and never realized that could be the problem.

One more thing I think could be my problem is my intake manifold gasket. I will try refilling with coolant first and see how that goes. IF it persist then I'll have to check for leaks around the intake manifold.

Hope this is helping someone. lol

 

Your experienced mechanic must not be very experienced.

 

^^ x2


Considering that you forgot the resistor box, I would say check every vacuum line, hose, etc. Have you verified that the spark plug firing order is correct?

This might be far fetched to you, but previous owners of engines lie, like a lot. You could have just got a bad motor. I heard all the it ran good, this and that, then why'd you pull it? I watched 3 people I know fall victim to this just in this year.

I wish you the best man.

 

I'll double check everything. I'm also having trouble with the crank pulley being too close to the timing belt cover. That, or the timing belt cover is too far out. The alternator belt is basically going through the timing belt cover. Any suggestions?

 

Should we really have to search through all your previous posts to find out what engine and car you have?

 

Oh ****, LMAO!

 

94 Accord EX, F22B1. The timing belt cover and alternator belt is not an issue any more.

Right now the fuel pump keeps buzzing when the key is in the ON position and well I messed with the position of the distributor and now the car won't turn on.

 

To be clear, I know the pump is supposed to be buzzing but it should also stop after a few seconds to my understanding. My fuel pump just keeps buzzing. Also, all the normal dash lights light up as normal except for the CEL, it is a bit dim. I thought that was strange.

 

So, my suspicion was right. The ground to the ECU, which bolts to the intake manifold, was very loose. I hope this helps someone else. These grounds make all the difference. I was thinking the idling issue could have been my intake manifold gasket, which I really did not want to deal with. My starting issue I thought was due to the fact that the distributor position was random (not with proper ignition timing), and everything problem got solved once I tightened down that ground. The car turn right back on, my idle is steady at 750 rpms. Just beautiful.

Currently, I’m still having an issue with a sound coming from inside the engine. I really don’t want to think it could be something bad internally, so a compression test is in my list to perform. The engine performs really well, so I don’t think it is something internally. What I really thinking it could be though is my timing. It seems to have this surge of power that seems weird to me in the middle of the rpms. I’m not familiar with knocking/pinging noises so it’s hard for me to distinguish, but I’ve heard if you advance/retard enough you could hear a pinging noise, so I relate the noise with the unusual power from an advancing of the timing? Any advice or past experiences helps. I figure what I should do is just have someone help me set the timing.

Thanks to all.

 

Even if your ignition timing is all the way retarded or advanced it shouldn't really cause a noise to come from the engine, just some rough idling.

A compression test is definitely in order.