GSR vs. Type R Engine Build
I know that a stock type r engine is faster than a stock gsr engine but my plan is to build, not keep stock. so the question is which is a better platform to start with? i plan to bore it, stroke, and pretty much upgrade most of the internals and add forced induction(turbo) so in yall's opinion which is better or does it matter or should i just go with what ever is cheaper to get my hands on. Thanks
Both are similar engines in many ways.....it comes down to price that you can find. A type r has a better head.....mild polish, lighter valves, better cams and intake manifold. The bottom end has stronger rods, higher comp pistons, and a better counterbalanced crank. It's worth extra, but how much?
For me, I bought two type r engines, one with a bad head, one with a spun rod, got them both on the cheap. Mated the two together, sold off all Cora parts and I was into a minty B18C5 for under $500
For me, I bought two type r engines, one with a bad head, one with a spun rod, got them both on the cheap. Mated the two together, sold off all Cora parts and I was into a minty B18C5 for under $500
GSR. Don't waste money on the R if you plan on building.
The Type R head IMO is over rated. Get a good valve job, stock ports will work just fine. GSR head also ups the comp ratio a little bit and has quench pads.
If you build the motor properly and have it balanced, the R stuff has NO added benefit IMO
That's my .02, I'm not an R parts nut swinger. I like to go fast.
Good luck
The Type R head IMO is over rated. Get a good valve job, stock ports will work just fine. GSR head also ups the comp ratio a little bit and has quench pads.
If you build the motor properly and have it balanced, the R stuff has NO added benefit IMO
That's my .02, I'm not an R parts nut swinger. I like to go fast.
Good luck
GSR. Don't waste money on the R if you plan on building.
The Type R head IMO is over rated. Get a good valve job, stock ports will work just fine. GSR head also ups the comp ratio a little bit and has quench pads.
If you build the motor properly and have it balanced, the R stuff has NO added benefit IMO
That's my .02, I'm not an R parts nut swinger. I like to go fast.
Good luck
The Type R head IMO is over rated. Get a good valve job, stock ports will work just fine. GSR head also ups the comp ratio a little bit and has quench pads.
If you build the motor properly and have it balanced, the R stuff has NO added benefit IMO
That's my .02, I'm not an R parts nut swinger. I like to go fast.
Good luck
gsr has better quench area that supposedly helpt prevent detonation better.
and gsr has higher angle intake ports. that help flow in certain areas.
theres flow charts for b16 and gsr and they are almost identical as far as flow but each has ups and downs in different spots..
if you want to save money on port job then you can find an ITR head
another advantage of ITR head is it shares the intake manifold with B16
intake manifolds for b16/itr are always cheaper than for gsr and there are many more available for sale.
and gsr has higher angle intake ports. that help flow in certain areas.
theres flow charts for b16 and gsr and they are almost identical as far as flow but each has ups and downs in different spots..
if you want to save money on port job then you can find an ITR head
another advantage of ITR head is it shares the intake manifold with B16
intake manifolds for b16/itr are always cheaper than for gsr and there are many more available for sale.
Noooo. The value of an ITR is MUCH higher than taking a GS-R Head and doing a reasonable port/polish job. Perhaps your quotes are off.
That's based upon the OP's ability to find what they need, but not a reason to just choose one over the other. C'mon... On PAPER your logic is sound. As an applied application, your reasoning is flawed.
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Regardless of his ability there are still more manifolds available and for cheaper price.
I found that out when searching for aebs manifold
but i looked for pretty much every other manifold and they all same. B16 is much more available and cheaper
when was the last time you checked? In general b16 manifolds are about 50 bucks cheaper no matter which one you pick.
Even brand new. Aebs manifold is 200 for a gsr and 150 for b16. Just an example
I found that out when searching for aebs manifold
but i looked for pretty much every other manifold and they all same. B16 is much more available and cheaper
when was the last time you checked? In general b16 manifolds are about 50 bucks cheaper no matter which one you pick.
Even brand new. Aebs manifold is 200 for a gsr and 150 for b16. Just an example
Ok. Let's see. For the purpose of ease of this comparison, I'm going by source pricing of MSRP and not going through the searching of 50 different sites of proprietors, because the same trickle-down of Jobber pricing will vary. I'm going with 2 main companies and 3 manifolds. Skunk2 and Professional Products (where AEBS get's there stock from)
Skunk2 Ultra Street Series
Oh wait... they fit BOTH bolt patterns because its the same part number of 307-05-0505 at $451.49
Skunk2 Pro1 -
307-05-0295 - B16 / ITR
$314.99
307-05-0270 - GS-R
$289.7
Wow. The B16/B18C5 is actually more expensive if we went by the source price.
Ok. Moving on
AEBS / Professional Products (a division of Nickel's) Intake manifold that's mainly sold by Summit Racing.
#59003 GS-R - Summit Racing
$132.97
$167.97 (polished) (#50092)
Professional Products Whirlwind GSR Intake Manifolds 59003 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Professional Products Whirlwind GSR Intake Manifolds 59002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
#59001 Type R/ B16 - Summit Racing
$132.97
$167.97 (polished (#59000)
Professional Products Whirlwind Type R Intake Manifolds 59001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Professional Products 59000 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Edlebrock Performer X Is the only one in which you're close at a $14 difference..
#4771 GS-R Summit Racing
$404.77
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4771
#4774 - B16 Summit Racing
$390.25
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4774
A whooping $14.52. Not even a full tank of gas difference. And this is NEW. For the used stuff, again, negligible.
So, really, there's very little difference. If you get a good GS-R head over some B16 that you find, in the NA world, you're MORE than fine in getting to your goals much more easily overall.
If you're crying over $14.53, then you need to get out of this hobby and do something else.
Skunk2 Ultra Street Series
Oh wait... they fit BOTH bolt patterns because its the same part number of 307-05-0505 at $451.49
Skunk2 Pro1 -
307-05-0295 - B16 / ITR
$314.99
307-05-0270 - GS-R
$289.7
Wow. The B16/B18C5 is actually more expensive if we went by the source price.
Ok. Moving on
AEBS / Professional Products (a division of Nickel's) Intake manifold that's mainly sold by Summit Racing.
#59003 GS-R - Summit Racing
$132.97
$167.97 (polished) (#50092)
Professional Products Whirlwind GSR Intake Manifolds 59003 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Professional Products Whirlwind GSR Intake Manifolds 59002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
#59001 Type R/ B16 - Summit Racing
$132.97
$167.97 (polished (#59000)
Professional Products Whirlwind Type R Intake Manifolds 59001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Professional Products 59000 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Edlebrock Performer X Is the only one in which you're close at a $14 difference..
#4771 GS-R Summit Racing
$404.77
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4771
#4774 - B16 Summit Racing
$390.25
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4774
A whooping $14.52. Not even a full tank of gas difference. And this is NEW. For the used stuff, again, negligible.
So, really, there's very little difference. If you get a good GS-R head over some B16 that you find, in the NA world, you're MORE than fine in getting to your goals much more easily overall.
If you're crying over $14.53, then you need to get out of this hobby and do something else.
i meant used ones. They might be what you posted at the moment but ive been checking prices on manifold for last 3 years.
And in general i can find a b16 manifold for much cheaper than gsr
Especially used one.
Last year the aebs gsr manifolds were selling for 200
And b16 were cheaper
Used aebs manifolds for b16 are everywhere for 100-120 dollars
i see a gsr aebs manifold show up once in a while and usually for 150-180
And in general i can find a b16 manifold for much cheaper than gsr
Especially used one.
Last year the aebs gsr manifolds were selling for 200
And b16 were cheaper
Used aebs manifolds for b16 are everywhere for 100-120 dollars
i see a gsr aebs manifold show up once in a while and usually for 150-180
i meant used ones. They might be what you posted at the moment but ive been checking prices on manifold for last 3 years.
And in general i can find a b16 manifold for much cheaper than gsr
Especially used one.
Last year the aebs gsr manifolds were selling for 200
And b16 were cheaper
Used aebs manifolds for b16 are everywhere for 100-120 dollars
i see a gsr aebs manifold show up once in a while and usually for 150-180
And in general i can find a b16 manifold for much cheaper than gsr
Especially used one.
Last year the aebs gsr manifolds were selling for 200
And b16 were cheaper
Used aebs manifolds for b16 are everywhere for 100-120 dollars
i see a gsr aebs manifold show up once in a while and usually for 150-180
All of this really depends on what you're building the engine for/what your goals are. The sky is the limit with options but we would need to know goals.
I think the problem people have is starting a build without planning and expecting it to all work itself out. Outside of horsepower (cause everyone loves numbers) you reaaaally should think about what you are going to use the car for. Be honest to yourself, and your wallet. Make plan, research, ask questions, find out what real world expectations are, and then stick to the plan.
I think the problem people have is starting a build without planning and expecting it to all work itself out. Outside of horsepower (cause everyone loves numbers) you reaaaally should think about what you are going to use the car for. Be honest to yourself, and your wallet. Make plan, research, ask questions, find out what real world expectations are, and then stick to the plan.
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