Drop in camshaft upgrade
Looking for some cams for my Australian 2001 dc2r (11:1 stock compression).
It's a daily with no track work, just looking for power upgrades and would like it driveable until I get it tuned. Currently have header and full exhaust system, will eventually get hondata s300.
Can I please get some suggestions on aftermarket camshafts and any other required valve train upgrades.
On the other hand, I've heard the 2001 itr cams are quite decent and unless I upgrade to cams that are race spec, it is not worth it?
It's a daily with no track work, just looking for power upgrades and would like it driveable until I get it tuned. Currently have header and full exhaust system, will eventually get hondata s300.
Can I please get some suggestions on aftermarket camshafts and any other required valve train upgrades.
On the other hand, I've heard the 2001 itr cams are quite decent and unless I upgrade to cams that are race spec, it is not worth it?
Well. The Skunk2 Tuner 1, the Buddy Club Spec III, are both drop-in upgrades to the 2001 Type R camshaft that work great. One last alternative is the Edlebrock 4730, but those are getting more rare. You want to make sure that you have the software/hardware ready for tuning just before installation. Don't just drop them in, drive around, and expect any immediate improvements without getting ready for the tuner soon.
Well. The Skunk2 Tuner 1, the Buddy Club Spec III, are both drop-in upgrades to the 2001 Type R camshaft that work great. One last alternative is the Edlebrock 4730, but those are getting more rare. You want to make sure that you have the software/hardware ready for tuning just before installation. Don't just drop them in, drive around, and expect any immediate improvements without getting ready for the tuner soon.
So, that meant no changes in valvetrain.But valvetrain changes are best for more power.
BC3's for the win, if not Toda B's or Jun spec C's (IIRC)... even spoon cams if you can find them.
You will have to valve springs to be safe.
I know tons of people use SK2, but having ran engines on both the JDM cams mentioned above and the SK2's, I would never consider SK2 again for the nature of their power curve or finnicky nature when tuning. (All a matter of opinion)
If I had to chose one, Toda Spec B.
No mods are good on B18C5 without a tune, tune makes all the difference.
You will have to valve springs to be safe.
I know tons of people use SK2, but having ran engines on both the JDM cams mentioned above and the SK2's, I would never consider SK2 again for the nature of their power curve or finnicky nature when tuning. (All a matter of opinion)
If I had to chose one, Toda Spec B.
No mods are good on B18C5 without a tune, tune makes all the difference.
BC3's for the win, if not Toda B's or Jun spec C's (IIRC)... even spoon cams if you can find them.
You will have to valve springs to be safe.
I know tons of people use SK2, but having ran engines on both the JDM cams mentioned above and the SK2's, I would never consider SK2 again for the nature of their power curve or finnicky nature when tuning. (All a matter of opinion)
If I had to chose one, Toda Spec B.
No mods are good on B18C5 without a tune, tune makes all the difference.
You will have to valve springs to be safe.
I know tons of people use SK2, but having ran engines on both the JDM cams mentioned above and the SK2's, I would never consider SK2 again for the nature of their power curve or finnicky nature when tuning. (All a matter of opinion)
If I had to chose one, Toda Spec B.
No mods are good on B18C5 without a tune, tune makes all the difference.
I just sold my other Spec Bs. Please stay with the Buddy Club or Skunk2 Tuner 1 camshafts. I understand about how some are skiddish about the BIG CAMSHAFT stuff from Skunk2, but for a Tuner 1, its more than reliable, capable and fine. I speak from personal experience with them for over 10 years.
S2 tuner 1's, BCIII's or Toda A's would be the ones to look at, as mentioned. I'll throw Blox A in the ring as well. Spoon bumpsticks would be amaze-***** but they're rare and pricey. All of these do not require any changes to the valvetrain. Some will choose to upgrade that area to rev higher and remain safe but they are designed to work with the OEM parts.
A "stage 2" cam, if you will, would be the route I would go and add valvetrain, valves, maybe even headwork, to see larger gains yet maintain daily driveability. Toda B's, Jun III's, S2 tuner 2's, etc are common. Blox B's as well. These also work well if you decide to build the block to strengthen and raise compression. You even have the "extra" 0.5 c/r over the USDM B18C5 so that's a plus already.
Personally, I wouldn't consider a cam upgrade as a one-off mod; like a header, or intake. Typically, supporting mods are combined to get the most out of the cams. ie: valvetrain, valves, headwork, cam gears, then a tune of course. Although a drop-in cam will work just fine with a quick tune I think there is more gradification doing the head as a package.
The S2 Pro series cams are pretty aggressive so I'd leave those out. Not something you want to jump into without high compression.
I run Pro2's with about 12:1 c/r and it's got muscle car lump. Even with the stock stroke.
Keep us posted
A "stage 2" cam, if you will, would be the route I would go and add valvetrain, valves, maybe even headwork, to see larger gains yet maintain daily driveability. Toda B's, Jun III's, S2 tuner 2's, etc are common. Blox B's as well. These also work well if you decide to build the block to strengthen and raise compression. You even have the "extra" 0.5 c/r over the USDM B18C5 so that's a plus already.
Personally, I wouldn't consider a cam upgrade as a one-off mod; like a header, or intake. Typically, supporting mods are combined to get the most out of the cams. ie: valvetrain, valves, headwork, cam gears, then a tune of course. Although a drop-in cam will work just fine with a quick tune I think there is more gradification doing the head as a package.
The S2 Pro series cams are pretty aggressive so I'd leave those out. Not something you want to jump into without high compression.
I run Pro2's with about 12:1 c/r and it's got muscle car lump. Even with the stock stroke.
Keep us posted
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Project_EK
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