ok so the other night I decided to finally put on my new powder coated intake manifold for my b20 in my 96 gsr.
Once I was done swapping everything the car is now stuck in limp mode and won't go over 3000rpm
I have a few engine lights on but not sure which one is making the car do what **** doing but I will post my diagnostic notes and hopefully someone can make sense of it! Thanks again
Niles

 

Reset your ECU that's a **** ton of stuff (save from the IAT) that has no relation to what you touched. Unless you unplugged that stuff? either way disconnect the battery for 10 mins or so and try again


p0135= primary o2 replace IF needed
p0141= 2ndary o2 replace IF needed

P1337=crank sensor on the oil pump could be gummed up or just a glitch re-set the ECU

p1660= something to do with an auto trans but I saw a slave cylinder in your pic so idk why you have that

p0112= make sure the sensor is snug in the port/bung reset your ECU first may be a glitch.

 

$5 says its the IAT sensor.

 

Ok I reset all of these codes left the battery cable off. For at least 30 minutes put everything back on tight got in the car as soon as I put the key in accessory two codes pop up and then when I started it the other three pop up please help do I need to replace all of the sensors?

 

 

OP when you get a fault code its always from a sensor from either being bad or has a bad connection and or not plugged in. Check all these first to make sure there plugged in and have no loose wires in the plug that can cause a break in the circuit.

It could be possible to of had the MAP sensor and TPS sensor switched because they can sometimes reach each other and they share the same style plug, iv seen it a few times. You posted code p0122 which is the TPS sensor!

If everything was fine before painting it then its just a matter of finding which sensor is really causing the issue/limp mode.

Also make sure the IAVC on the back of the intake manifold is plugged in.

 

Ok I checked all plugs and wires and nothing has been switched around and no wires are damaged... The tps sensor has given me problems be4 but never like this... The only sensor that was actually swapped from the old IM to the new one is the iat sensor which if I'm not mistaken cannot put the car in limp mode correct?

Ps I didn't paint it had a spare ls manifold powder coated to match valve cover

 

Oh btw I through another code on this startup
P0450

 

The crankshaft position code will definitely put you in limp mode. I agree with wunfstgsr though, we need more info. Did you have any codes before the intake manifold swap?

 

Im pretty sure its a direct replacement if I'm not mistaken so i don't think its the actual manifold being the problem I'm still leaning toward that IAT sensor. Double check the wires going in from the top of the plug and check the contacts inside the plug. take it out and make sure its clean. I do believe if the sensor is bad or unplugged you will get a limp mode.


Try unplugging the ECU for 10 mins and try reseting the ecu like that. I read that one of the causes for that new code you have is a faulty ECU, this also came up with another code you have but i doubt the ECU would just go bad out of the blue.

 

Ok i'm sorry I didn't realize it didn't have enough info up there when I bought this car didn't run the cluster was shorted out and half of the harness had been spliced together but for the majority it ran good once I fixed The starter, alternator, brakes all the way around including rotors, and rewire the cluster. After rewiring the cluster I noticed the car had a engine light on. But I forgot to check the code before I swapped the intake manifold. So I am very unsure on what code is causing the problem. I also installed new cams and valves and when I did the timing I loosened up the crank sensor by accident behind the crank pulley but then retightened it immediately I also loosened the bolt that goes into the oil galley in the oil pump due to trying to remove the lower timing cover without pulling the crank pulley I have checked all the injector wires and they worked flawlessly and all spark plugs have spark...
Please what sensors should I try replacing first and in what order??

On my way! To pick a part to grab sensors and plugs/wires (pigtails) anything I should grab just incase??

 

Did you reset the valve lash after the new cams and valves were installed? Make sure the valve lash is in spec before you do anything else.


You could of done something when you unbolted the crank sensor. Iv seen the crank sensor wires get eaten up by the alternator belt from the wires not being tucked away properly and or not using the bracket for the crank sensor wires to keep the wires away from being damaged.

 

Ok, if this is the first time you're checking codes you probably didn't cause the majority of these codes with the IM swap. The crank fluctuation sensor is the only one of those codes I know for a fact will put you in limp mode. I suggest you verify your mechanical timing is correct.

What year is your car?
what year is the engine from? Original to car or swap?
what ecu are you using? The full code off the sticker?

 

My car is a 96 GSR
The motor B20b and it came out of a 97 CRV from what I am told
I am not positive on the ECU I can check the numbers when I get back to my house I am at pick apart at the moment

So I should pull the crank pulley and check all the wires that go to the sensor behind it?
Timing is set just like this \/\/



And this is the sensor I believe I may have loosened

 

Sorry I missed that info in your first post. The reason I was asking though is because a jdm b20b doesn't come with a ckf sensor installed onto it. The original jdm oil pump doesn't even have the necessary holes to mount the ckf sensor to and the lower timing cover won't fit with a usdm obd2 oil pump and ckf sensor. Is there a number after the b20b(#)? If not you have a jdm engine and it's pretty likely the previous owner never installed the usdm parts (oil pump, ckf, lower timing cover) which is why you have that code.

If that's the case you have a couple options. You can either swap all the parts I mentioned (oil pump, ckf sensor, and lower timing cover) for the correct usdm parts or you can perform a wiring "mod" to trick the ecu into thinking it has the ckf installed.

.:FFS TechNet : CKF Bypass Trick :.

If you do decide to perform the ckf bypass though I would definitely recommend verifying your mechanical timing before tricking the ecu as you can cause severe damage to the engine by continuing to drive it with the mechanical timing off.

I'm willing to bet you have the wrong ecu installed since you have an automatic fault code. It also sounds like the previous owner did a number on the wiring. Is the engine harness cut up too or just the chassis harness? Does it still have the gsr engine harness or is an LS engine harness installed now?

 

OK I'm on my way home now when I get there I will check to see if there any numbers after the b20B...
I'm not sure if it has the GSR or LS harness but if you can tell me how to figure that out I will let you know I'm sure it has the wrong ECU nothing on this car was done correctly...
I am 100% positive that the timing is correct I did it myself 2 days ago
And the only harness that was messed up so far was the cluster harness

 

If it still has the GSR harness it will have extra plugs for the IABs and VTEC which the LS harness won't have.

So when you did the timing belt job you said you think you loosened the ckf sensor up. Are you sure that's what it was? If it has a ckf sensor it is either a usdm motor or has had the oil pump swapped to mount the ckf. Check that block stamp and report back.

 

The motor just says b20b no numbers after it but I does have a long 8-10 digit number below it

 

So it's definitely a jdm b20. Can you find wires coming out at the bottom rear of the lower timing cover and tucking behind/under the alternator? If there are wires there you have a ckf and will have to troubleshoot the reason it's throwing the code. If there are no wires you don't have a ckf installed which is why the ckf code.

Post some pics

 

Ok for the third time typing this I hope it doesn't delete it again

I have gotten under the car now and taken pictures of everything and I was wrong and in fact the bolt that I was tightening was the timing cover bolt
(Bolt on the left)



And indeed there is no wires coming out of the timing case anywhere or tucked behind the alternator so I do not believe there is a crank sensor on this motor anywhere...

So back to stage 1
I replaced the IAT sensor and wires here is a picture of the old one I replaced



It is pretty dirty but still in tact none the less...

I could not find a throttle body similar to mine anywhere at the junk yard, I believe it is a crv throttle body because all of the integras I found did not have a map sensor on top so I did not want to buy the TPS sensor if it wasn't the correct one. I'm becoming very very discouraged working on this car and I'm in dire need of a answer
What's next???
Thanks again

 

Oh one more thing I thought of
When I replace the IM I got a new TB gasket and when I went to remove the tb it had been silicone sealed on and now that they're is a actual gasket in there it doesn't seal on top and you can literally hear it leaking and maybe that could mess up the TPS or MAP sensors because there is no pressure going to the sensor?
Just a thought lmk please

 

It can be frustrating having so many problems and not knowing the best place to start. Best advice I can give you in your situation is try not to get overwhelmed. Make a list prioritizing which issues are the most important and only focus on one or two at a time. Do research and searches on each individual code as you tackle it and check visually to see what components you have and verify that they're hooked up correctly. That's why focusing on one area at a time will help. You can get a thorough understanding of each component and circuit and identify exactly which parts or wiring are likely the issue for a given code. Downloading or purchasing a fsm and following the troubleshooting flowcharts will help you. If you have specific questions post them up and people will help you out.

Actually now that you know you don't have a ckf sensor you can make a decision whether to perform the wiring trick I've linked to fool your ecu or whether you want to purchase and install all the usdm components to have a functioning ckf sensor. The wiring mod is far easier, cheaper, and less time consuming than tearing it all apart and installing the sensor but ultimately that's your decision to make.

If I was in your position I would probably start by immediately determining exactly what ecu you have installed. I wouldn't attempt to do much troubleshooting until I knew exactly what I was working with.

After swapping the IAT sensor and resetting the ecu is that code still present or did you eliminate that one code?

 

Is the mating surface of either the throttle body or intake manifold damaged? Even a small knick can allow air to bleed past the gasket. You purchased the throttle body gasket for an integra correct? Installed in the correct orientation?

You may want to post some clear pictures of your throttle body so it can be identified. Any 94-01 integra throttle body should have the map sensor mounted on top of it unlike the 90-93 integra throttle body which has it mounted remotely.

 

Ok you seem to have a butt load of issues and i could understand your fustration buying some ones hacked up/ project car can be a huge head ache but rollininmyda gave you some real great info!


First can you answer my question on setting the valve lash after replacing the cams and valves? This would involve pulling the head to replace the valves along with a valve job if you know what your doing, and doing this will require you to re set the valve lash after putting the head back on other wise you might have tight or loose valves in the head..


You said you had problems with the TPS and your looking for a new TPS. You can check the voltage of the TPS to see if its operating correct in WOT and closed throttle. Then if its out of spec you can drill off the rivets and use two small bolts and adjust the TPS sensor to spec. If you determain its bad then you can buy them new online. Search google on the TPS calibration procedure. Its always a good idea to test these things such as sensors before you go buying things you dont need! if you have so much money that you can use it to wipe your *** after a crap then go ahead by all means start replacing anything and everything until it runs ok..






Owe man this is deff where one of your issues will be. Thats a massive vacume leak your describing. Make sure the surface of the intake manifold the matts to the throttle body is smooth and straight! i highly doubt its warped. Do the same with the throttle body surface that matts to the intake manifold surface. ( of course you will picture the gasket in between this area) Double check to see if you lined up the gasket in the right way, it should match the ports on the throttle body.

With this massive vacume leak you describe it will throw off the MAP sensor and the TPS sensor so get that sealed properly.

 

Ok so now I took off the tb and checked all of it with a straight edge it's perfect but I said screw it and went to get some ultra copper gasket maker and made a nice bead all the way around where the gasket sits and then tightened it up nice and snug and waited 24hr before starting the car again I did the full ecu reset with the ecu and ecu backup fuses in the fuse panel under the hood. Then I let it idle for 15 min and now the idle speed is way off now that there is proper manifold pressure going to the sensor and it idles at 2k rpm and it is still stuck in limp mode.... Please help
Now what??




And to answer your question on the valve lash yes I completely checked all 16valves and did all the clearances. This is something electrical or sensor related... I just wish I knew what sensor it was.....