Hi, weeks ago a bought a Civic EK4 VTI 2000 hatchback, and need to change the suspension, i need some opinion of which suspension will work for me, this will be my daily driven car, or sometimes go to the track.


I have in mine FF, D2, Skunk2, Ksport.

 

there all about the same, just different colors. I'm sure they all have the "36 way adjustable dampening"

 

All of the brands you're thinking of are awful.

Read the FAQ. Most people recommend Koni and GC. Its a nice setup, but it has its limitations.

Tein's street flex would also be a good option.

 

I'm always an advocate of Progress CSII coilovers. Get something like 350/350 or 350/250 for the street.

 

350/250 sounds too soft. I have 450/350 in my daily driver da and even then the front feels a little soft. But it rides beautifully.

By the way. Progress csII are awesome. Especially for the money. They're a no frills basic coil over, with easily replaced struts, and because they're no frills, they're actually priced to the performance and reliability you get. 500ish gets you a decent performing setup with basic ride height adjustability, but that's all you need for a setup that cheap.

The setups on the budget end with adjustable this and that are bogus IMO.

 

Save your money for stickers and A domo doll

Cut your oem springs

Or not

Don't get junk2 though

 

I believe 350/250 is suppose to ride like stock, but with adjustable ride height. Then again, I'm basing this on 4th gen chassis weight (2030 from the factory on a CRX). The later gen civics probably need something like 450/350 to add any firmness to the ride. It really depends on chassis weight. I have 350/500 and the rear is definitely stiff.

The rear spring rate is really what affects ride comfort, from what I've read. So keep it lower if you want a smoother ride. 500 is definitely noticeable. Drainage canals in your neighborhood are going to be uncomfortable.

 

Symmetrical suspension setups will ride a bit harsher than a setup with stiffer fronts iirc. Also, symmetrical setups will make the rear handle loose vs stiff front vs rear. A 450/350 setup would feel more neutral/under steer vs a 350/350 setup from what I understand

 

symmetrical, what?

no. nothing you said makes any sense.

 

Symmetrical spring rates. 350f 350r is symmetrical. You know what symmetrical means right?

I should also add, that a rear biased spring setup would be even harsher. The rear spring rate seems to impact ride comfort a lot more than the fronts do

 

I agree with you. I think it was just worded weird with all the "vs" . I would assume that's why Tyson was confused about what you said.

 

OP straight vanished, though. Homeboy is busy carving it up with some Skunk2's that he ended up with.

 

thanks for your opinions.


i don't want to spend to much.


Some opinions for the Tein Flex Z 16 ways ajustable Coilovers?

 

They're not 16 way adjustable. They have 16 damper settings. They are 1 way adjustable for rebound and compression together.

The bodies are fully adjustable for height.

They are a good option for budget minded people. They don't cost much, are fairly basic, and they don't suck.

 

when two numbers are the same, theyre "equal", not symmetrical. dumbass.

symmetrical means they're equal about a plane or axis. theres an obvious midplane between left and right sides of a car, and there is no obvious plane between the car, and certainly none that makes sense when describing springrates front to back "symmetrical".

youre just making **** up and clearly dont know what youre talking about.


equal spring rates between front and back doesnt mean anything substantial, given different motion ratios. the center of mass isnt in the middle either on a FWD car. so the real point is that trying to associate front and rear springs relative to each other to some magical ratio or equation is nonsense.

you tune the car to your taste. start with a baseline, work from there.

in general, if the car is understeering, you stiffen the rear spring rates, or lower the fronts. but always keep in mind what you, the driver is doing to create the understeer or oversteer.

you actually got it right with this statement, but probably cant explain why, at least didnt bother since nothing else youve said makes sense, iirc.

since the center of mass on a FWD honda is closer to the front, the lever arm from the center of mass to the rear tires is much longer than towards the front, so obviously any vibration or motion creates a longer travel or overall greater sensitivity.

so if anyone even cares about keeping ride quality in any sort of priority, then keep the rear spring rates low and damping under control. and just accept the understeer and drive around it.

 

Higher rear spring rates are most definitely not comfortable for regular/extended driving when compared to the stock ride.