Hey can anyone tell me some symptoms of what the trans would do with bad spring and *****?

I believe there is 2 bolts that each hold a spring and ball. Please correct me if im wrong.

So what would bad spring and ball for the shift fork cause?

And can i take those out with the trans in the car still? or do i have to drop the trans...?

Ty

 

Not that it helps but i remember i was at a HT members garrage that was sponsored by M factory and he was assembling my transmition with/ for me and he mentioned the spring and ball play a big role in the trans but i cant remember exactly what it does, check this,

https://honda-tech.com/transmission-...orial-2443459/

 

The trans has to come out to access anything inside , what is it doing that makes you question those parts the spring and ***** would not "go bad" it is possible to bend a shift fork tho. I don't know their exact roll but here's them I assume some sort of cushion for the fork.

 

Hey ty for answer. I was talking to this guy yesterday. He said the spring and the ball go into the fork so it holds it in place.

My question to him was when im shifting from 1st to 2nd under 3000 RPM, i have to shift it a certain way so it goes in smooth if i don't i feel a little resistance/notchy feeling and i have changed fluid. Its only 1st to 2nd, everything else fine. If i shift over 3000 RPM it is smooth. He was telling me to check the ball and spring because the ball and spring go into the shift fork when shifting and if the spring is bad could cause problems.

 

Ty. Yeah i "think" the ball and spring go into the shift fork when you are shifting so it locks the shift fork in that gear you are in. So i was talking to this guy yesterday he said its possible for the spring to go back causing some problems like notchy shifting or shifting a certain way to make it go smooth into gear.

 

Try a weighted shift **** it helps allot.

 

The bolts, springs, *****, and detents in the shift fork all work together to maintain the selected gear in each gear pair (or the neutral position). They support the synchro spring which fits with a detent in the synchro sleeve to hold it in the selected gear.

I've seen a couple of failure modes related to the springs/check ***** - 1.) the bolts are overtightened and selecting gears is either difficult or impossible. 2.) insufficient tension on the chrck ball caused by a collapsed spring, missing spring or check ball. Theoretically this could make it easier to pop out of gear.

 

You can access the bolts from the bottom of the transmission when installed in the car. I think you lose a lot of fluid since it's close to the fill line and facing downwards.

 

K ty. I mine as well change the fluid again see if it helps. Do you know if using GM syncromesh will mess up the OEM Honda Synchros?

And do you think i should torque them or just hand tigthen? You sure its ok to take it out of the trans while it is still in the car? And should the reinstall be just as easy?

 

I will. Tyu

 

I thaught i had some issues with my ITR trans when shifting at a low rpm, tried a SK2 weighted **** and i freaking love it! every shift is like its being assisted from the weight giving a nice smooth butter shift. Higher rpm shifting is even more pleasent.

 

Synchromesh is fine.

When you take it apart, just don't lose any of the 3 parts for each bolt you remove.

I wouldn't trust the torque value of you use a clicker type torque wrench. Just hand tighten to seat the bolt and then no more than 1/8 of a turn.

 

Forgot - it's 4 parts if you count the aluminum crush washer.

 

How does the ball and spring go back in. I split the case and those three ***** came falling out and i have no clue on how to put them back properly i need help please.