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My name is Anthony I've been around Ht mostly as a spectator, looking and buying for a few years, created a new account due to the fact I can log into my old one and I lost the email it was attached to but anyways
I live in up state New York and I'm a service advisor for a honda dealership and a few months ago I bought a 99 civic hatch dx manual. from the original owners, an old couple. it has about 169,xxx miles, and the car does need so work but I got it for a hell of a deal!....
So I had the car dropped off about 4 months ago now and it's been sitting until I got the time and $$ to start to rebuild so I'm just starting to get around to it I want you guys to see and tell me what you guys think...
I he came to drop off the car I got all the original paper work, window sticker, original title with 6 miles on it, all service and warranty manual and the best part all the service records done mostly at dealerships an they have done it ALL. which is even better on my end
Just a general rebuild/restoration,diy,open to opinions
If it's in the wrong thread I apologize I figured it would be model specific
So about I week ago I got the car towed to my dealership and put it in the air... I knew from the diagnosis it possibly need fuel lines due to a large evap leak and the tech recommended brake lines but that's y I bought it knew what it needed already...but I was hoping it was only a portion or just one line so when I lifted it up and dropped the fuel tank this was the only before picture I took... I didn't thing about making a thread until after
But here are a two pictures I used as reference to remember how the lines lined up in the back
You can kind of see how rusted they were here and the picture below
if this is a car you intend to keep, do not bother patching lines. this is always a temporary fix. do yourself a favor, and buy a nice roll of nickel copper 3/16" line. it bends easily, flares easily, and most importantly, will never rust.
Just a general rebuild/restoration,diy,open to opinions If it's in the wrong thread I apologize I figured it would be model specific
</p><p>Nope, it's all good Your first post was pretty...well, pretty much nothing, so I was trying to figure out if you actually had something going on, or if you were just another shitposter (which we have way too many of). It looks like you might just be a good member around here, though, which is awesome.</p>
if this is a car you intend to keep, do not bother patching lines. this is always a temporary fix. do yourself a favor, and buy a nice roll of nickel copper 3/16" line. it bends easily, flares easily, and most importantly, will never rust.
We'll since I would at a dealer and I'm a fan of oem parts (even though honda sometimes has stupid engineering designs) I bought all new fuel lines and brake lines from front to rear which I'll have pictures up later today and a parts list
if this is a car you intend to keep, do not bother patching lines. this is always a temporary fix. do yourself a favor, and buy a nice roll of nickel copper 3/16" line. it bends easily, flares easily, and most importantly, will never rust.
Damn, this is good to know.
edit: so would this be best for brake lines or fuel lines?
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of when I actually installed the new brake an fuel lines but I can say it was a B*%#h worst part is since I'm doing it after work at the dealership I had to get to a stopping point where I would be able to roll the car out by the end of the night ...anyone thinking of replacing brake and fuel line I will say this don't go with new oem lines even thought their designed for the car I still had to bend the lines in a lot of places to make ends fit ,I'm sure it's due to storage reason at the warehouse..but as mentioned above probably making your own lines would be easier, For me I'm more into oem direct fit (even thought that wasn't the case here) and I plan to keep this car for along time so I wanted to make sure it was safe and lines were flared proper. Can't take the risk of lines leaking down the road (no pun intended)
So today I picked up all new brakes and rotors new drums,hardware kit, wheel cylinders. 3m rubberized under coating debating, also por 15 for the under body of the car.
I plan on either rubber under coating the brake lines them selves and por 15 the actual under body or doing it all with por 15? Any thought or suggestions would be nice
Here are some pictures after the lines are installed and before gas tank is put back into place.
Front to rear
Rear set up
I had to insulate the middle line because the two outter lines kept rubbing together. I just used a rubber hose wrapped it around and zipped tied it they don't nessisarly move a lot but I had to be sure
<p>Fuel lines go overlooked way too often, glad you caught it before it became a major problem </p>
Yeah I seen a few customer cars we recommend and they declined I mean I don't blame them its a lot of $$ with labor to do the job but since I'm doing all the work and I have a lift available I tackled it all at once
should have coated the lines prior to installing. pull that hose insulator off (dirt/water collector), coat that section, reinstall.
thats is actually what im going to be doing tonight, i bought 2 cans of 3m rubberized under coat and i also have a can of por 15. im undecided on what to use because i didnt buy the WHOLE por 15 kit just the paint it self, so tonight im just going to finish up everything with the brakes order the rest of the por 15 kit and brush it on, there is enough space to coat the top of the lines and everything, some time next week im going to do the entire rear end so i would have to order the kit anyways
thats is actually what im going to be doing tonight, i bought 2 cans of 3m rubberized under coat and i also have a can of por 15. im undecided on what to use because i didnt buy the WHOLE por 15 kit just the paint it self, so tonight im just going to finish up everything with the brakes order the rest of the por 15 kit and brush it on, there is enough space to coat the top of the lines and everything, some time next week im going to do the entire rear end so i would have to order the kit anyways
WEAR GLOVES
That **** runs like water and is a ******* B to get off of your hands, otherwise clean the lid and seal it properly... you'll end up with a very expensive unopenable can afterwards if you don't.
That **** runs like water and is a ******* B to get off of your hands, otherwise clean the lid and seal it properly... you'll end up with a very expensive unopenable can afterwards if you don't.
ive used por 15 before on my other civic i did it on a new gas tank because i didnt want the same issue to happen (the gas tank rotted out)
WHEN I FIRST GOT HER (FRONT) (PICKED IT UP FOR $350) ALSO GOT A BINDER OF SERVICE RECORDS AND ORIGINAL WINDOW STICKERS AND MANUALS
(SIDE)
(SIDE)
BACKSIDE
FIRST THING I HAD TO DO WAS DETAIL THE CRAP OUT OF IT, THE PREVIOUS OWNERS (OLDER COUPLE) HAD LIKE 3 CATS AND TWO DOGS THEY TOOK EVERY WHERE SO I FOUND AT LEAST A POUND OF PET HAIR AND DIRT UNDER THE CARPET, AND MY WIFE IS ALLERGIC TO CATS SO I REPLACED FRONT SEATS WITH 00 SI SEATS AND WASHED CARPET AND DYE'D IT BLACK (CAME OUT PRETTY GOOD WILL GET COME PICTURES LATER)
I BOUGHT THE CAR FOR DIRTY CHEAP OFF THE ORIGINAL OWNERS, NEEDED A NEW HEAD GASKET BUT THE CAR HAD 270,XXX MILES SO I PICKED UP A WHOLE SWAP WITH 80K FROM A FRIEND FOR $300.
FIRST THING I DID WAS TIMING BELT WATER PUMP, CRANK, CAM SEALS, NEW TENSIONER AND DRIVE BELT THIS WAS BACK IN 2011
FAST FOWARD 2015 I REPLACED THE OIL PAN
ALL NEW
NEW RADIATOR (NOT PICTURED)
FOR THE LAST FEW WEEK I KEPT HAVING A GAS SMELL AND I FOUND THE GAS TANK LEAKING
GAS TANK WAS LEAKING AROUND THE FUEL PUMP AND SENDING UNIT
so last night i was able to get some time to finish up the brakes
new rotors
new drums
after i bought the car it sat in my back yard for 2-3 months which didnt help rotors are beyond help
rusted front
rusted rears
calipers were fine, no leaks or deep rust, pistion slid in smooth
no issues at all
new pads and rotors
new drums, shoes were still oem and had plenty of life left at 3/32nds
brake flush machine
did the flush 4 times just to make sure there were no air bubbles
a few things i need to finish are properly attaching the collier that connect the steering column to the power steering rack, my steering wheel is off by 90degs so im going to get it as stright as i can and then do the alignment
i need to finish up attaching the fuel pump connectors and hoses from when i dropped the tank, then under coat the brake lines and car with por 15