UPDATE!!

So recently my turbo manifold broke so i went and put some headers on the car at same time i removed the thermostat as well as replaced the water pump, but the car still overheats when i drive over 75mph for about 5 min... Also with thermostat out the car still warms up in about 2-3 min to half temp which is the full operating temperature. Idk what can be causing this need help thank you....

Hi i have a ls vtec turbo built motor car recently began to over heat. First it oy happened on hot texas days, then began to also happen when i would go over 70mph and now it happens even if im just idling. I have replaced thermostat with mishimoto one, replaced head gasket with je pro seal, mishimoto fan with shroud, new coolant sensors, burped the system everything and i still cant get a hold on the issue. I also had the head checked for warp or cracks and nothing. Can someone please give me some help before i part car out. Thank you in advance.

 

Block sleeves?

 

What is the cfm rating on that fan? are you letting the system control the fan operation like stock or has that been changed in any way?

I've had great luck with a spal 13" fan setup as puller w/ good shroud, and turning the fan on at 190 in Hondata settings.

 

Intercooler blocking flow to radiator, but most likely the previous post I agree with fan being #1 cause

 

Sorry for late reply super late but block has no sleeves stock

 

Not sure the cfm but i know its a mishimoto fan with the shroud and i have it set up as stock... Odd thing tho not sure if normal but fan will kick on for about 5 seconds then go off for a bit then come back on for 5 sec then go off..

 

Anyone

 

to start, the fan does absolutely nothing over like 40mph, so considering the fact you still overheat at 70mph, ignore anything fan related as it will have zero effect.

When you removed the old water pump, was the impellar fully intact? or did any fins break off?

Have you flushed the radiator with a hose from both top and bottom, with radiator REMOVED from the car, to make sure there are no blockages in the radiator? if not, do it. and while the radiator is out, with thermostat removed, stick the hose in both water outlets on the engine too and flush the whole engine and make sure it flows freely through it.

Top off the coolant, keep the radiator cap off, do a compression test, and watch the coolant in the radiator while running the test in each cyl. if the coolant jumps with each compression stroke, then the hg is leaking in the cyl being tested. also, if the actual compression numbers are low in any of the cyls, it could mean piston/cyl damage which will cause massive amounts of extra heat.

Do you have an oil pressure and/or oil temp guage? if yes, what have those been showing lately? worn out crank bearings can cause a ton of extra heat.

 

Yep... crank bearings.... that heat shows up in the coolant first, not the oil right?....
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What exactly is indicating to you that the engine is overheating? The gauge? Running without a thermostat will never deliver a "stable" temperature reading.

Please show a picture of how you deleted the heater core. You must loop the lines to each other, you cannot simply cap off the ends. Doing that prevents hot coolant return from the heater core from helping the thermostat open on time, or in some cases at all. If this occurs EXACTLY the same way without the thermostat installed, disregard that for now.

A blocked radiator, a slipping water pump impeller, or boiling over (crap radiator cap) are the only three things I can think of off hand that are still possibilities provided the system doesn't leak or is low on coolant. If you still have a heater core, (I can't see the lines) when the engine starts to overheat, turn the heat on full blast. If the engine temperature stabilizes or drops, the radiator is blocked internally or you have a huge chunk of something in the radiator hoses. That test proves the water pump is circulating coolant.

Your issue seems to be water flow related. You have a blockage or a pump that is not putting out flow. If the cap was not holding any pressure you'd have coolant spitting out or boiling in the overflow tank.

 

When i removed the water pump it was still intact with no chunks missing.. And i havent flushed the system yet... I will check it but i will first do the compression test to see for leaks

 

I did not take out the heater core and when i turn the heat on it does not change the temp and i am getting the reading off my cluster as well as my hondata computer..

 

Also my oil pressure is at aroun 35-20 at idle depending how long car has been running or how hard i push the car.