So I've used the search button and a lot of people say "Change out fuel sending unit"

Okay...

Spectra Premium SP8341H

I ordered that part, received it today and had it installed very quickly. My fuel gauge still says it's sitting half way. No difference and I burned 100 dollars, Sigh.


Okay so I checked out the next compartment and it has the fuel float and that thing looked clean, and moved freely. I am hearing that the gauge cluster is the next most probable thing to look into.


Any ideas? I have a friend that lives in florida that moved that has a gauge cluster with a tachometer that he is looking for, and if he finds it he will sell it to me. I want a tachometer anyways, youtube shows that it's a pretty straight forward installation. Is there anything I should know about?

So this is a 1998 honda civic dx. It's considered an EK but There are different EK #'s what number is mine?



That's for any ideas / help. Really stinks.


When there is no power on the car do the fuel gauges rest at "Zero" gas or do they stay at the indicated level? If they rest at zero then I know for sure my gauge cluster is at fault, because it always says I have a half a tank of gas.

 

<p>No, your car is not considered an EK. &nbsp;It's an EJ6, and anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is either ignorant, lazy, or flat out stupid.</p><p>If no one has gotten you squared away before then, I'll try to find the wiring diagram for that system, so you can get pointed in the right direction. &nbsp;You have a voltmeter, right?</p>

 

I can burrow one from my father, I do not really know how to do electrical to be honest. I know how to take things off that have nuts and bolts. LOL

I am also very good at hitting things with a hammer.




A side note, when I drive at night my head lights power gets dim then brighter then dim repeat. It happens randomly and only for a millisecond. Apparently "MR. SEARCH" says that there is some sort of load sensing unit in my alternator that could be faulty, and a lot of people have this issue. For right now that's on the back burner of things to do.


What is the difference between an EK, and an EJ6? I just wiki'd it and it is an EJ6, why do people call them EK's? Are they not educated perhaps?


I always thought of them as EF older ones, EG, generation before mine, and EK mine (EJ6)

 

<p>Eh, a voltmeter is easy to use. &nbsp;Black lead goes to bare metal, red lead goes to whatever wire you're testing. &nbsp;Easy as that.</p><p>Your headlight issue is 99.9% of the time either a failing alternator, or a failing battery.</p><p>It's the chassis code. &nbsp;The EK9/EK4 are&nbsp;the JDM Type R. &nbsp;Every idiot kid who wanted to act like they had something cool started calling their shitty hatchbacks EK's, and it stuck. &nbsp;Now, only lazy, ignorant, or flat out ******* stupid people still call them EK's. &nbsp;Not only is it insulting to the people who have real EK's, but it's also flat out wrong from a technical standpoint, which matters around here. &nbsp;The diagnostic procedures and specifications for a B16B (the stock EK9/4 motor) are completely different than those of a D16Y7 (stock EJ6 motor), D16Y8 (stock EJ8 motor), and especially the D16Y5 (stock EJ7 motor). &nbsp;In short, there's a big ******* difference. &nbsp;If you want to read more about chassis codes, you can check out this thread (found in the stickies).&nbsphttp://;https://honda-tech.com/honda...s-too-2581875/</p>

 

Not a racist, I admire the way you carry yourself. You make me laugh. I've read some of your responses with other members that make no effort to use the search button and it's hilarious. Thanks for the info.


How long can I drive roughly without a crystal ball, I've had the car for a while now and it's starts right up and causes me no issues, no weak starts, nothing.


Mr Search says autozone checks batteries and alternators for free, so next time I hit the store for a parts run I can ask them to check it.

I'd prefer if the battery is at fault first LOL Nice and easy fix. The guy on youtube says its best to jack the car up and take it out from the bottom of the car. He claims it's a pain the butt but not impossible by any means and there is no reason to pull the axel out.



I just installed a camber kit on the car last weekend and the god damn bolts snapped off, so I had to torch them and grab it with a vice grip pliers. Not fun at all.

This civic EJ6 has been a nice little car to drive around. It gets good gas milage and with the skunk 2 shifter and bushing kit installed it shifts really nice too.

This weekend I am going to sand down some spots prime and paint it with color matching paint, then clear coat it. I am not a body guy, but it beats leaving bare metal exposed for this winters to eat up. It's a good car thus far and I understand why people like them so much.


I am not a professional mechanic, which is why I ask for advice / tech support. I will pay it forward whenever I can. It's amazing how long these honda's last.

 

<p>Thank you. &nbsp;I've just been around here too long to give a **** about the kids who come around and expect things spoon fed to them. &nbsp;This isn't my first account </p><p>Even if I did have a crystal ball that could answer your question, I wouldn't trust the crystal ball. &nbsp;There's just no realistic way to know until it's too late. &nbsp;You can get an alternator from Rock Auto for like, $105, or ~$215 if you want to go OEM. &nbsp;A good battery is pretty cheap. &nbsp;I'm a fan of removing the wheel, pulling the wheel well plastic, and doing it through there.</p><p>The bolts on these cars are hateful, spiteful bastards, but that comes with the territory of having a 15+ year old car. &nbsp;They're definitely bullet proof, though, if you take good care of them and stay up on the maintenance. &nbsp;I've never had something fail on my car that wasn't in some way my own fault, and every failure is a learning opportunity.</p><p>If you're going to do your own paint work, make sure to do it all in one sitting, all the way from stripping to clearcoat. &nbsp;Primer, and a lot of paints, are porous, which means that over time moisture can get behind them, and that can cause rusting under the paint.</p><p>It's all good, man, we all had to start somewhere You've got the right attitude to keep up around here, learn a few things to accomplish what you want and need.</p>

 

you *MAY* need to remove the alternator bracket from underneath as well. i usually do, it gives you much more room that way, and it's only two bolts. i would not recommend an aftermarket alternator. these aren't fun to change, and i have seen them fail many many times inside of a year. oem carries a premium price for sure, but when they last 10-20 years, they're very well worth it.

 

I will keep that in mind. I already removed the tire and plastic / rubbery wheel well cover because when I purchased the car some ding bat used a vice grips to pull the cable to pop the hood. I installed a proper cable so that I wouldn't have to use vice grips.

This appears to be the best way. I agree, every nut on this car is just rotted horribly bad. A lot of the times I pull a nut off and it sticks inside my socket today it happened 3 times. The best thing to do is just install new nuts, they are inexpensive at the auto store. I have some laying around just incase I lose a bolt, like today one fell down, didn't feel like digging around for it so I went in the parts drawer. Later on I found it on my driveway. It would be wonderful if auto companies used stainless steel hardware, vs standard steel.

I suppose they want people to have problems so they go into a dealership, where the techs, have the finest tools, and lifts. In a garage things that would be simple to work on become a chore.


If I remove my current cluster is there any visual way I can tell if the gas gauge is faulty, like a burned connectors?

I want a cluster gauge with a tachometer regardless. It's mind boggling why honda made a car with a manual gearbox, and didn't install a tachometer, whereas cars with automatics have them installed. Just something you sit back and scratch your head and say "why?"

 

yeah, you can look for burn marks on the board, but cluster issues are common on these cars. honda stripped down certain trims to... you guessed it- sell options! pray to automotive jesus that your thru bolt isnt seized. i have had to cut out alternators due to this.